steering wheel shimmies when braking

Discussion in 'Technical' started by scooper77515, Jul 19, 2009.

  1. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Only at certain speeds, and if I hit the brakes light-to-normal.

    This is actually on my truck, but just as relevant for mavericks.

    Doesn't do it every time, and only from around 30-15 mph on deceleration.

    I am assuming warped rotor, but they are measuring out at .010" runout on the pass side, and around .035" on driver side, both fronts.

    Is the .035 enough to cause a little shimmy?


    Should I check the back rotors?
     
  2. ford84stepside

    ford84stepside Lone Wolf

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    Loose or worn wheel bearings can also cause a shimmy....
     
  3. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt BBF life

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    thats more then enough to cause a shimmy/pulsation on many cars.
     
  4. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Oh, guess I better get that taken care of.

    Wheel bearings are pretty new and all joints are recently swapped.

    I swapped brake pads and rotors about 15000 miles back, and learned my lesson about buying the top-of-the-line pads (ceramic). They stop on a dime, but they squeal like crazy just before the stop, and apparently they run pretty hot and I assume caused this rotor to warp. I have never in my life had a warped rotor until this one.

    Is the .010 enough to shimmy, or just the .035?

    I will probably get them both turned anyway.
     
  5. mercgt73

    mercgt73 Member

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    You should turn rotors in pairs, otherwise a pull will develop.
     
  6. rayzorsharp

    rayzorsharp I "AM" a Maverick!

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    Yes, definitely turn both rotors. The only thing I have ever found to cause a shimmy in the steering wheel upon braking is warped front rotors or bad front tires...95% of the time is rotors.
     
  7. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    That is what I was thinking. Tires are brand new, in fact, all brakes,joints, and suspension is new within the past 10k miles. Then last week this shimmy starts and I am trying to figure out what caused it.

    i still think those damned hot ceramic brakes did it. We have had no rain in 8 weeks, so I didn't get them hot and hit water. These "lifetime warranty" top-shelf pads have been a nightmare. In fact, if you do a search on here, I was complaining about them months ago trying to get them to stop squealing. :16suspect
     
  8. cdeal28078

    cdeal28078 Member

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    I just went through this on my 86 Bronco. The caliper on the right side locked up coming down a mountain and warped the rotor. I drove it warped for a while due to not needing the truck but replaced the rotors, pads and calipers last month.
    I hooked up a dial indicator to is before pulling the bad side and it was around .040 and the shimmy was real bad at all speeds. I would say that is your problem for sure.
    I put the cheap pads on mine because I hate the squeeling and that was a mistake. I pulled a friends 64 F100 the other weeks and the brakes faded real bad at the bottom of the first hill and I was taking it real easy.
    I will be replacing them soon.
    I will probably go with a mid grade so they don't wear out the rotors so bad
    clint
     
  9. Joe Dirt

    Joe Dirt BBF life

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    What kind of pads are they?
     
  10. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Wagner Thermoquiet Ceramic Pads. Not at all thermo, nor quiet. They suck, and about 4 times the price of the base models. Lifetime warranty is cool, but I plan on throwing these away and getting organic or semi-metallics instead after 6 months. $60 per set...:cry:

    And did I mention they advertise being cleaner? My aluminum rims are covered with a brown/red dust about 100 miles after I wash them. MUCH worse than the stock pads or low-end pads.
     

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