I recently acquired a grabber hood with a pretty nice ding in the front tip of the nose. Fan2488 and I started working on it today to get it straigtened out and we put it on the car. So, is the center nose part the same shape and size as a standard hood? If so, I might cut one off another hood and go ahead and swipe out the entire inner lip where mine has some rust. Before and after pics...
I think they are, the hood trim is the same. Who's going to know if they aren't anyways? I'm excited you're working on your car again!!
I am mostly concerned with the tippy top front part. The part between the blue stripes and my dent in first picture. The dome on the hoods is different, and not sure if I could graft a standard nose on without messing up the flow and lines.
The very front part of the nose I assume is the same. A guy, that I bought my flat hood from, was selling Grabber hoods that all had front lip rot. He would include a 1 foot front section of a nice flat hood so you could graft the front lip on the Grabber hood
So it is the same all the way back 12"? or did he just include that so you could use the front 3 or 4"?
I believe he left just enough on the flat hood cut off so the front lip wouldn't distort. In the 2 hours that I was hanging around his garage, 3 guys came and bought Grabber hoods and each one had a piece of flat hood included for repair.
I beleive they are same also. There was some one here on the forum a few years ago doing the same thing. They were attempting to graph a flat hood nose to a grabber hood too. I do not know if they ever completed the hood or not. Good luck with it if you decide to try it. I think I might just cut the back side off and knock the dent out and just graph the bottom side. I would be afraid of the metal warping when you weld it on the top side. Allen Small
This is what I have done so far. I have a chunk of the rusty stuff cut out of the bottom layer, just enough so I can pound the top layer out close to normal. I just wasn't sure if it was the same shape as my stock hood, and how far out I should punch it. I only have a rusty spot about 12-16" long on the bottom layer that needs replaced.
Scoop, I would definitly stay that route then if that is all of the rust you have to deal with. You should be able to use the body lines where it is straight as a guide to how far to knock the dent out. Good luck! Allen Small
Tech article: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=21976 Or; http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=3936 With Ed's help you got made. Rick
