Wasn't initially gonna do this poll but with all i've read (various places) about people changing to Fuel Injection systems in their Mavs or Comets I thought I would. The question is which is better each has their advantages and disadvantages. Carburetors are simple for the most part (though some can be challenging) they have their performance advantages, they don't seem to handle the cold very well though and like to stall (from my experience driving carburetor equipped cars). Fuel Injections supposedly pollute less, and get better fuel econmony (as I said supposedly) but aren't for the novice mechanic especially Multi Port Systems. They are very complex and often expensive to fix when they break (I could be wrong on this though it is simply from my own experience). Personally I gotta go with Carburetors if nothin else for the simplicity of it but IMO they are the best for performance I know some of you will dispute that it is simply a preference really.

What do you think? Carburetor or Fuel Injection


71 Grabber (Project Car)
85 Club Wagon
94 Taurus GL Sedan FFV

fuel injection has several advantages. More torque, better driveabliity, better fuel atomiztion, better fuel mileage, easier starting in some cases, on and on. The downside to it is that you just cant take a maverick with a mustang MAF injection to a ford dealer for service. Most often, they will refuse it due to it being a custom installation. You pretty much have to know how to service it yourself in order to properly tune it and work on it. On older hotrods, I think carburetors are the way to go, but fuel injection is the wave of the future. A properly tuned Holley will run just as good as a good EFI, and get just as good of fuel mileage. The problem lies in tuning. Very few people know how to properly tune one for mileage AND power. And yes, it is possible to get 25 mpg from a maverick with a decent cam and a 750 doupble pumper...just takes a bunch of tuning.

My roots, tastes and beliefs are all rooted in an older style of thinking ( old cars, american cars) that is not found with most of today's generation. I find myself one of the last generations to be american hot rodders/muscle car enthusiasts. However, where I sway from this old belief is fuel injection. I believe the ultimate combo in an old car is the old car with modern drivetrain/electronics/fuel injection. Simply put, there is no competion whatsoever with a "stock" 60's/70's v8 vs a v8 from a mustang from 86-95, or even 95 up.

A "stock" fuel injected 302 from 86-93 will run and run and run. No constant carburator adjustments, no cold starting problems, no point adjustments, and better gas milage. Never mind the fact that a stock 87-93 302 puts out nearly a hundred horse power more than a 72 302----141 vs 225 hp. I speak from experience, I have not given any tuneup whatsoever, no plugs,cap,rotor,timing, whatsoever in 6 years and 70k miles. It still runs 15 seconds flat in a stock 3300 lb 86 gt stang convertible at 173k miles!!!

Even a person with beginning skills can figure out how to work on the 87-93 5.0. They are EXTREMELY simple, and a little bit of reading is all that is needed. Mods are much easier, there are many more that can be done on fuel injection than carburation.

This is what I plan to do with my mav.

There is one draw back, however, and if you read up in the archives on the board, it is no easy task to install in the mav. Also, like others have said, people might not want to work on it.

If time and patience are plentiful and knoweledge as well, go for the fuel injection.

Well, Jeremy is right on! After I get a little older and have more money, I would love to put the fuel injection back on my Maverick's engine (From a 5.0 Mustang). My dad's 1990 Mustang runs and runs. We have never had it tuned up, and at 140,000 miles it runs great! The clutch is the original one, and the brakes were done at 100,000 miles. I am very impressed with this car, and by seeing its performance and reliability, I would love to make my Maverick fuel injected. Just my thoughts. Before I attempt this, I need to learn a little more about the whole electrical aspect. :D

-Corbin

The points, all have mentioned, is what my answers have been all along, to posts about FI conversion. It needs to be a genuine challange to do it and come through it with a sense of accomplishment and pride.
It is a must, to learn how the system operates or there is little chance of succcess.
My car was done in 95 and was one of only a few in the country at that time, that I knew about and the only one to rettrofit a 73- 302.
I can tell you that this system really turns on when you get with the show.
The fuel milage comes about for a number reasons. Compaired to the old engine, the (5L) compression is higher, fuel is controlled very close by the oxgen sensors, the ignition timing is run more advanced and during cruise, the fuel injection is cut back. Cam is roller and its timing is quite good for a factory cam.
As a moderator on another Ford board, I deal with this engine operation nearly every day, and they can have there problems too.:p

The way I see it, if you've got the money, the knowhow, and the time, EFI is the only way to go.

EFI is efficent yes i'll give it that I guess i'm just the plain and simple type though my Carburetor is fairly simple now that i've taken the time to learn it but I would imagine anything even EFI is easy to learn if you put your mind to it. Like it or not I have to eventually learn it, the Taurus has it but I pray nothing goes wrong with it I can't make heads or tails of that Flex Fuel nightmare (has more sensors then Cheney has excuses). The one thing I do like about EFI is it always seems to start on cold mornings without a problem and doesn't stall either. My family once had a 1986 Dodge Aries (had it up til 1998) it had a single port FI nothing too complex about it (still have one of the old Tank Mounted Fuel Pumps for it), it did have it's share of problems though but what do you want from Chrysler.. I suppose if I wanted (and knew how) to go EFI I certainly have the room for it in my engine compartment with that Inline 6 in there and no A/C to get in the way, but i'm wondering if it could even be done on an L6 without totally redoing the cylinder head as the Intake Manifold is integral to it and cannot be removed (at least according to the book).


71 Grabber (Project Car)
85 Club Wagon
94 Taurus GL Sedan FFV

MavJoe,

A friend of mine in Australia sent me some pics of an Aussie Maverick with a 250 EFI. From the looks of it, it was a stock manifold drilled for the injectors, with what looked like a single throttle body and mass air sensor. Looked pretty simple to me, but who knows.

For a daily driver FI is the only way to go. For my Maverick that I only drive in decent weather a carb is just fine. Maybe the gas mileage isn't as great as w/FI but for the $1000 or so difference in price I can buy a lot of gas.

If it is going onto a 6 cylinder mav, imo- it is not worth it. Why go to all that trouble for a 6 cyl? Convert to a late model 5.0. Comes with all the fuel injection stuff already, no custom engine drilling.

If had the money EFI but I don't and you can go just as fast with a carb... so carb it is.

I couldn't agree with you more! :) Carb it is, until my boat comes in! :D
-Corbin

Having worked on and built both, i'd say that the fuel injection is actually easier. I put a '94 5.0 motor in a '96 6-banger mustang with all the aftermarket goodies....runs like a bat out of hell. It's very easy to get it running right.

For my money and my car, though, i'll stick with a carburetor! Why? Because *I* can tune it...at home...in my garage. I don't need to take it to a dyno and have it run for two hours while they tweak the computer to the tune of $400 or more + dyno time.
Fuel injection vehicles get better gas mileage because they're pretty close to perfectly calibrated (off the showroom floor, at least), and because they're designed that way--the computer uses wussy timing curves, pulls back fuel (and sometimes timing) at every opportunity, and generally is set for low emissions and good economy. If you don't believe me, go to any mustang board--a good computer tuning will run you $400 and net you ~30hp, the same kind of tuning that i can do in my garage in a few hours with a screwdriver, some jets, and some advance springs! And if you change anything after the computer tuning--back to the dyno!
Of course the fox mustang makes more power than a '72 or so 302--it has a 2-bbl carb, lower compression, a dud of an intake manifold, a smaller cam without roller tappets, exhaust manifolds rather than headers, a single exhaust, the list goes on.

Anyway, i chose a medium...had an o2 sensor welded into my exhaust and i monitor it with a a/f guage...so now i can tune my car the way I want it, not the way the computer wants it. It may not always be as good or as "dummy proof" as fuel injection, but it's a LOT cheaper and only requires a little knowledge about what's going on. Plus, with as good as carburetors (i like my demon!) and intake manifolds have gotten in the past couple years with CAD and all...i just can't justify the expense and work to put on EFI.

A "stock" fuel injected 302 from 86-93 will run and run and run. No constant carburator adjustments, no cold starting problems, no point adjustments, and better gas milage. Never mind the fact that a stock 87-93 302 puts out nearly a hundred horse power more than a 72 302----141 vs 225 hp. I speak from experience, I have not given any tuneup whatsoever, no plugs,cap,rotor,timing, whatsoever in 6 years and 70k miles. It still runs 15 seconds flat in a stock 3300 lb 86 gt stang convertible at 173k miles!!!

I see you doing several things wrong here. First off, ditch the points. Second, the reason you're continually adjusting the carb is due to the points. TUNE A HOLLEY CARB AND THEN LEAVE IT THE HELL ALONE. It will run fine for years once you ditch the points. Third, if you're going that far between tune ups, you're both leaving HP and fuel mileage on the table. Tighten up to 2 years/ 24K miles and you'll pick up lost power.

Wasn't initially gonna do this poll but with all i've read (various places) about people changing to Fuel Injection systems in their Mavs or Comets I thought I would. The question is which is better each has their advantages and disadvantages. Carburetors are simple for the most part (though some can be challenging) they have their performance advantages, they don't seem to handle the cold very well though and like to stall (from my experience driving carburetor equipped cars). Fuel Injections supposedly pollute less, and get better fuel econmony (as I said supposedly) but aren't for the novice mechanic especially Multi Port Systems. They are very complex and often expensive to fix when they break (I could be wrong on this though it is simply from my own experience). Personally I gotta go with Carburetors if nothin else for the simplicity of it but IMO they are the best for performance I know some of you will dispute that it is simply a preference really.

What do you think? Carburetor or Fuel Injection


71 Grabber (Project Car)
85 Club Wagon
94 Taurus GL Sedan FFV
Seeing as it is that you live in Sacramento Ca. you'll be happier with EFI, if you make regular trips up in the mountains. Elevation changes is one area where a carb cannot compete with EFI. If it were not for that fact, I'd tell you to go carbed.

this thread is from 2002! is that the record for brought back to life? it's a historical moment . . .

I think its also a personal choice more so than a performance one. Efi is superior for fuel management and distribution assuming its not TBI.
The simplicity of our cars is my biggest positive about them. I like being able to fix it in record time with a few tools. Its a step back to simpler times.
Keep in mind that I'm the driveablility tech in a dealer so the Mav is my escape from technology.

My roots, tastes and beliefs are all rooted in an older style of thinking ( old cars, american cars) that is not found with most of today's generation. I find myself one of the last generations to be american hot rodders/muscle car enthusiasts. However, where I sway from this old belief is fuel injection. I believe the ultimate combo in an old car is the old car with modern drivetrain/electronics/fuel injection. Simply put, there is no competion whatsoever with a "stock" 60's/70's v8 vs a v8 from a mustang from 86-95, or even 95 up.

A "stock" fuel injected 302 from 86-93 will run and run and run. No constant carburator adjustments, no cold starting problems, no point adjustments, and better gas milage. Never mind the fact that a stock 87-93 302 puts out nearly a hundred horse power more than a 72 302----141 vs 225 hp. I speak from experience, I have not given any tuneup whatsoever, no plugs,cap,rotor,timing, whatsoever in 6 years and 70k miles. It still runs 15 seconds flat in a stock 3300 lb 86 gt stang convertible at 173k miles!!!

Even a person with beginning skills can figure out how to work on the 87-93 5.0. They are EXTREMELY simple, and a little bit of reading is all that is needed. Mods are much easier, there are many more that can be done on fuel injection than carburation.

This is what I plan to do with my mav.

There is one draw back, however, and if you read up in the archives on the board, it is no easy task to install in the mav. Also, like others have said, people might not want to work on it.

If time and patience are plentiful and knoweledge as well, go for the fuel injection.

wow...exactly what im gonna do, and I have the same belief...GO EFI

i started reading this thread wondeing why i hadnt seen it before, then i checked the date. i think mo is right, this is the oldest resorected thread yet.

Electronic engine controls are nice... as long as they keep working. When they go bad they can be a nightmare to troubleshoot and expensive to fix. On other sites I frequent where the guys have EFI cars there are constant questions about how to find/fix this or that problem even though the ECM gives diagnostic codes. Seems to get worse the more the engine is modified from stock. Completely stock, almost no problems.

Now, if my Holley develops a problem I only need a screwdriver to fix it, or about 15 minutes to swap on a spare carb. And a lot of money saved to spend on other goodies.

Electronic engine controls are nice... as long as they keep working. When they go bad they can be a nightmare to troubleshoot and expensive to fix. On other sites I frequent where the guys have EFI cars there are constant questions about how to find/fix this or that problem even though the ECM gives diagnostic codes. Seems to get worse the more the engine is modified from stock. Completely stock, almost no problems.

Now, if my Holley develops a problem I only need a screwdriver to fix it, or about 15 minutes to swap on a spare carb. And a lot of money saved to spend on other goodies.

:clap: Thats the way I see it. I spend too much time at work diagnosing EFI and electrical. Then trying to get at the pasts to change them. I can swap the carb on the Mav in minutes. Change a fuel pump in about the same time.

I do not like EFI into older, non EFI cars. If it's already there in a late model, great, leave it alone and drive it. But to retro-fit all that stuff into an old car... forget it. I've seen several guys who were much, much more computer/tech savvy than I'll ever be try to pull it off....only to spend a bunch of cash, and time to maybe get it to run right. EFI is very precise- get the A/F ratio outta whack and it'll drive you nuts. Put a 750 on a stock 302 and it'll run..smooth. Yea, it's way too much carb, and the plugs are probably fouling away right now, but carbs are more forgiving. And cheaper. I can buy some plugs/jets alot cheaper than injectors/regulators/tps & o2 sensors.

I do like electronic ignition minus the EFI stuff. If my Duraspark fails, it's probably a $12 brainbox, maybe the pickup(never had one fail on me yet though) or the coil. Not too many parts there.

Exactly...electronic engine controls are nice... As long as they keep working. When they go bad they can be a nightmare to troubleshoot and expensive to fix. On other sites i frequent where the guys have efi cars there are constant questions about how to find/fix this or that problem even though the ecm gives diagnostic codes. Seems to get worse the more the engine is modified from stock. Completely stock, almost no problems.

Now, if my holley develops a problem i only need a screwdriver to fix it, or about 15 minutes to swap on a spare carb. And a lot of money saved to spend on other goodies.

Personally, I'm going to put EFI on one of my Comets along with an AOD purely for driveability purposes. But then again they will be of a totally stock configuration too, so I shouldn't have all the issues that most people have with modifying the systems since the system will think it's still in the Mustang it was designed to be in.

I'm too old / broke down for drag racing any more so I'm not going to bother with hopping the system up when stock will work just fine for me. I just want something I can get into, turn the key, and drive while getting decent gas mileage no matter where I go. Being able to find replacement parts at any auto parts store if something breaks on a trip is an added plus too.

I've got both old (1965 Chevy II Nova) and newer cars (1993 Caddy Deville & 1997 Crown Vic) that I drive on a regular basis and I like the "gas it and forget it" of the newer cars.

I'm also a former Chevrolet dealer mechanic and have worked for several years at a restoration / custom shop, so I'm a little ahead of the curve than most people that attempt the swap too.

-Scott H.

Put a 750 on a stock 302 and it'll run..smooth. Yea, it's way too much carb, and the plugs are probably fouling away right now, but carbs are more forgiving. And cheaper. .
Simply bolting on a 750 will not result in fouled plugs. Quite the opposite will occur due to the decreased vacuum signal.

If it helps i started with a 6 and went to 5.0 fuel injected and i'm only 17.

If it helps i started with a 6 and went to 5.0 fuel injected and i'm only 17.
Yes grass hopper but...Is it running and driveing reliably yet???
I see this stuff every day and...When it works,its flawless.Neglect it and it will tolerate it...To a degree.Modify it (ford pcms' are very tolerant of change to a degree)modify it and re-engineer it(which is what you are doing by putting the EFI 5.0 in a mav) I guarantee it will give you fits.You will perhaps sort em out and have a great runner but,be warned.Its not for the faint of heart or un initiated.




My blue 72 with a dual point dist and a holly carb on the 306 in it gets 25 to 27 MPG and... I only have to lift the hood to check the oil.Once the thing is set up properly be it old school or EFI,its pretty hassle free.

Carb all the way.

No classic car guy in my opinion would want to open the hood up on a 1970's car and see EFI...I know I wouldnt, Id much rather see a big pretty carb sitting on top of a manifold.

If its on a daily driver and never meant to be show-worthy, then sure, EFI all the way, but Id never enter a car into a car show with a converted carb-EFI motor.

I guess the biggest part that plays into it is what exactly you plan to do with it...mine is going to have a big gas-guzzling 4bbl on it...lol

this post is from 2002. the origanal poster isnt even posting on here in recent years.

i have installed fords fuel injection on old carbed cars. it has always ran fine with no issues. i really doubt the 71 maverick kid will have any problems once he gets it all installed as long as all the parts used were good. as said the ford system is very flexable, and that allows it to be very frendly towards swaps like this.

im a carb man, but i have a 900 cfm holley projection kit ,i traded a carb for, lol...id like to try it out ,its complete from fuel pump to injection unit , anyone try this setup before ,theres no o2 sensor with it it doesnt use 1 .....

I am a traditionalist - old school - but if you drive to high altitudes often and live closer to sea level (or the other way around) the fuel injection will work better. It will compensate for the altitude changes and keep the car running right with the changes in altitude. If you drive within a few thousand feet of your home altitude then the carb works well. A carb is a lot easier to trouble-shoot if problems occur and is less expensive.

I had both, carb and efi on my mavs I like EFI better i never had an issue with the system If it's installed right it will run like it was on the donor car, and trouble shooting these older system is not that hard and parts are available everywhere and cheap.

Now if I was going to build a super power plant i would go carb.

i run a correctly tuned holley 750 on my built 5.0 and average 21-23 mpg at 65 mph. fuel injection would be cool in an old car though. I'm a fan but it could get pricey unless you get a complete motor from late model mustang with everything you need.

Fuel injection the best all around for a fun daily driver.I have had my car scince 1984 first 302 installed in 1985 13.90's 1/4 about 13 mpg modified more and tuned better in 1987 and 88 collage and more experiance helps 13.10 16 mpg next engine built in 1999 12.60's 16 mpg engine hatted pump gas high compression it took 5 years to put 17,000 miles on it sold it 2005 stuck 302 in it as a daily driver never raced it done with that decided in 2006 to go fuel injection found engine and did research saved money installed in june 2009 runs great 19 mpg. You do not have to intall mustang gas tank I used my stock one removed the tank and cleaned soldered in radiator drain plug bungs for fuel return ran a MSD external fuel pump used factory gas outlet on fuel sender runs just fine. I do own an auto repair shop and have been doing this for 23yrs 11 years of it self employed helps.

I plan to install aftermarket fuel injection and an AOD trans as part of my Comet project. Just makes sense to me and I will learn about the new technology as a result.

If you need any info or suggestions give me a call or drop a line 530-527-3142 or e mail kusstum@yahoo.com thanks Donnie

well i'm going with a 97 mercury mountaineer motor along with the 4r70w tranny, accessories, and the eec V. The block is in the shop now getting freshened. Still researching on the heads i want to use. keeping the same f4te cam. might go up to 1.7 roller rockers. going with gapless top rings. and going to use a tweecar r/t to reprogram
the mountianeer uses a gt40 style intake and i will use a 75mm throttle body and maf.
doing jmod on the transmission now. my suspension work is almost done too, so i will be all new suspension :)

I would love to convert to EFI if I could find a affordable source. I've been studying the subject but I still get a little confused trying to figure everything out ahead of time. like finding the right cpu and being able to enable or disable features or systems that I may not have which the cpu controls... my 289 isn't as trouble free as I would expect from a 40,000 mile engine... oil consumption (uses 1 quart per 500-1000 miles), only 16 mpg... etc... so yeah efi and maybe a 5.0 roller while I'm at it...

i picked up my engine / trans / accessories / ecu in one package for $550
dump another 2500 in for new parts and capability to reprogram
i should be at the 3k mark for a rebuilt engine with overdrive tranny.

i didnt want a efi system. in my search for my first car i wanted to be able to learn and do it all myself not have to have someone there to reprogram the car and all. plus i can smoke anyone at my high school with their little civics and 240s. nothing better then a carbed ford v8

going with gapless top rings...
Hope you did research and thought this through...

i didnt want a efi system. in my search for my first car i wanted to be able to learn and do it all myself not have to have someone there to reprogram the car and all. plus i can smoke anyone at my high school with their little civics and 240s. nothing better then a carbed ford v8

Im going to program my own EFI system :bouncy:

Just don't some to cali our civic's here's are not slow :rolleyes:

I would love to convert to EFI if I could find a affordable source. I've been studying the subject but I still get a little confused trying to figure everything out ahead of time. like finding the right cpu and being able to enable or disable features or systems that I may not have which the cpu controls... my 289 isn't as trouble free as I would expect from a 40,000 mile engine... oil consumption (uses 1 quart per 500-1000 miles), only 16 mpg... etc... so yeah efi and maybe a 5.0 roller while I'm at it...

ford fuel injection.com has a great harness...but it's $500

you can get something for the egr that fools the computer. Other than that, it's not a huge deal. Just don't wire up a check engine light, and it won't matter if you pop codes or not. the egr one is the only one you have to worry about at all. As for the computer, just use a stock computer from a fuel injected mustang. btw, 16 mpg's is average for a 302/289....and all my 302's/5.0's all burned about a quart of oil a week...that's the nature of the beast. For the harness, id just get a stock fox mustang harness and modify it yourself, that's what I'm doing...there are drawings up all over the place that show you what to do.


I've been playing with my 66 mustang now for months since it's been running, and I've gotten back into carb's after a 15 year break on them. I must say that it's been sort of fun learning how to tune a carb'd car. when I say tune, I mean for performance. I'm having to learn total advance vs initial vs mechanical, then how to recurve the dist weights and springs, then how to jet the carb up and down for performance, and put on different springs for the secondary's....wow. It's really a blast doing this old school tuning. the nice thing though with an EFI engine is that you set initial timing, and that's IT, the computer does everything else. The stock mustang computer is good for a lot of HP and a tune is really optional until you get into SERIOUS HP, like 400-500+

I'll also say that I'm getting very sick of carb's tempermental attitudes...the cold starts, the backfire through the carb when cold if I don't give it enough gas, the occasional stumble, fart and whatever.

my 66 will stay carb'd for now, my maverick gets efi. EFI is so consistent, it really allows you to finally forget about all the basics like getting it running consistent, and actually lets you ENJOY the car to it's fullest and concentrate on mods, rather than just keeping it tuned for daily driving.

....and all my 302's/5.0's all burned about a quart of oil a week...that's the nature of the beast.
Huh? The only time any of my engines used that much oil was when one had a stripped oil pan plug. You need to find someone that knows how to build an engine...

it's probably different with the vintage motors...

I'm speaking of the 5.0 roller motors. they had weak oil rings...all the factory 5.0 engines after they get a few miles on them burnt a quart after about every 1k of driving...

So, you feel it was the factory low-tension rings? I've had several 5.0s but every one has had aftermarket pistons and rings.

that's what I've been told..

but I can say that over the past 15 years I've had, owned, or have had experience in the family or immediate friends over a dozen fox's, and the magic # seems to be over 100k when they start burning through oil. Of course there will be some that don't, but in my experience, nearly every high mile 5.0 loses oil. It's never visible though, and the motors still have high compression, and last well over 200k, so my best educated guess is that I it is the factory oil rings...my father and brother and I all joke about it...we call it the Ford unlimited mile no oil change...just add a quart when the light comes on every 1k miles or so, and it continually refreshes itself... ;)

My wife and I owned a 2001 jetta 2.0 once, and with 40k miles on the clock it too burned through oil every 1000 miles or less. We took it to the dealer complaining about this. *(never visible though, and never smell anything)...they said that it's normal to burn through oil ever 1000k on those engines. I commented that that seems excessive, and that it doesn't make sense to burn through 5 quarts of oil in a 5 quart oil pan, in 5000 miles when it has a 5000 mile oil change interval. I told them, so it's normal to replace all 5 quarts of oil in between oil changes...they didn't have an answer for me.

I once read an interesting service bulletin too from ford regarding their 2.3L engines, and it was even lower...calling "normal" oil consumption for those engines at 700 miles for one quart!

efi all the way any day. one simple reason.. ACCURACY!

Jeremy, i have a buddie who worked for volks and he said it wasnt uncommon to see jettas and such come in at the 5k mark with only 2 qts left in the pan. their warranty claims its permissable, meaning they expect u to check your oil daily!

lol, yea it blew me away...what's funny is it was the n/a engine too.. Our next car was also a jetta (the wife was on a jetta phase) but that time around I convinced her we needed the turbo'd jetta. different engine, 1.8 I think....That little booger would go the entire 5k plus and never burn a drop of oil.

I've been playing with my 66 mustang now for months since it's been running, and I've gotten back into carb's after a 15 year break on them. I must say that it's been sort of fun learning how to tune a carb'd car. when I say tune, I mean for performance. I'm having to learn total advance vs initial vs mechanical, then how to recurve the dist weights and springs, then how to jet the carb up and down for performance, and put on different springs for the secondary's....wow. It's really a blast doing this old school tuning. the nice thing though with an EFI engine is that you set initial timing, and that's IT, the computer does everything else. The stock mustang computer is good for a lot of HP and a tune is really optional until you get into SERIOUS HP, like 400-500+

I'll also say that I'm getting very sick of carb's tempermental attitudes...the cold starts, the backfire through the carb when cold if I don't give it enough gas, the occasional stumble, fart and whatever.
If you're having all these issues with a carb, you're doing something wrong. The trick to EFI like performance with a carb is to use an EFI cam (wide LSA), a good electronic ignition system (Ford's Duraspark or any of the points replacement modules, with the exception of the Pertronix I) A hot coil, and a carb that's sized on the small side of what's recommended. The mild roller 302 in my 89 Ranger runs and drives exactly like it's got EFI. This is an Explorer equivalent long block (including the Explorer cam) but topped with home ported E7's, Cobra 1.7 roller rockers, topped with a Ford A321 intake and a box stock Holley 570 Street Avenger. There's no choke on this carb (first thing I removed from it) and it starts and idles in down to 20*F with only a single pump shot to prime it with the gas pedal. It runs great in all weather with no adjustments. Also helps to advance the initial timing to about 14* BTDC. Ignition is a Crane XR-1 in a rebuilt points distributor topped with the large post type cap and Ford Racing 9MM wires plugged into Autolite plugs. My Comet's 331 is only slightly more tempermental with cold starts with a Duraspark, a Z 303 cam and the triple duece carbs.

i have gt40y alum heads, a b303 camshaft, duraspark ignition, 130 amp taurus alternator and a hot coil.

when it's warm, it runs like efi. I've done a fine job of tuning for mild driving. However, getting it tuned for wot throttle and high performance is a whole different ball park. When I start beating the snot out of the throttle, that's when it starts showing it's short comings....which I'm still learning, so I'll get there.

i have gt40y alum heads, a b303 camshaft, duraspark ignition, 130 amp taurus alternator and a hot coil.

when it's warm, it runs like efi. I've done a fine job of tuning for mild driving. However, getting it tuned for wot throttle and high performance is a whole different ball park. When I start beating the snot out of the throttle, that's when it starts showing it's short comings....which I'm still learning, so I'll get there.
:huh: now you're telling us it's doing something totally different from what you posted before. Maybe you shouldn't "beat the snot out of it" That to me sounds like you're too abusive to the engine and nothing's going to satisfy you.

i'd have to go back and read my post a few post back, but whatever I said isn't contrary to what I just said, especially since the info is already in my sig.

I built this little 66 mustang to hammer the crap out of. Abusive?? LOL, hell no. Every mechanical aspect on the car is over maintained, but I built this car for one reason, to hammer the snot out of on and off the strip. It's got a 373 8.8 rear from an explorer going on extremely soon (I already have it)...and a full nitrous setup is going on too (which I also have)...but I'm waiting on that until I finish learning how to tune the car properly.

I happened upon this 66 free, and the t5 and crate motor for $500 from a friend...I've got another 66 mustang in the driveway with a virgin body that will be the one I baby....but with some roof rust and floor pan rust, the blue 66 makes the perfect toy.

I'm still trying to balance adjusting the vacuum advance with the adjustments on the primary jets and secondary jets, and even the acc pump. As I said, for cruising, it runs like efi...but I had a surge/misfire due to too much vacuum advance. I adjusted that back, but went too far, now I dropped my low end power. Also, when I hammer it suddenly, say 4th to 3rd punch, it'll pop out the carb, which I suspect is a lean pop from not enough accelerator pump....and finding the right size jets i proving fun...I love dumping gas on my hands!!!

Anyhow, I think it's going to the track for the first time June 5th for a baseline run.

Here is a VERY old video...I've done so much more since this video...but this car is gonna be my little 1/4 mle track car when I'm done with it

YouTube- 66 mustang crate motor running better b or e cam part 2 flowmasters

:huh: now you're telling us it's doing something totally different from what you posted before. Maybe you shouldn't "beat the snot out of it" That to me sounds like you're too abusive to the engine and nothing's going to satisfy you.
Once again, I'll repeat myself. You're saying you're going to "hammer the snot out of an engine" tells me everything. And then you're going to add "NOS" ?:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh: :naughty: Good luck pickin up the pieces. :idea:

you guys are a bunch of slow moving bores, lol. Ever hear of anyone building a vehicle with the specific intentions of racing it? Not everyone wants a "cruiser"

Racing and breaking is part of the game, but it's obvious a few of you haven't gotten into that. Race break upgrade, Race break upgrade...repeat.

It's an additiction. That is why I'm building the maverick as a fun cruiser, and the other 66 as a nice resto. One for every reason right? None of them are my DD either, :)

Ultimately it's cheaper by far to tune a carb, but I'll tell you, from a racing standpoint, there is much, much less to tune on a frequent basis with EFI, and that's why I eventually may go efi on the 66, it's much more consistent once it's dialed in.

"when" this current engine blows, I'll be shopping for a junkyard 5.8 roller block to build up.

KABOOM...let's see what those Hypereutechtic pistons will take (75 shot for now)

http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosting/jeremy/Jeremy/66%20mustang/crate%20motor%20swap/nos.jpg

I'm running fuel injection with Gt40 heads and intake. I use the Moates Qurterhorse to tune it. The #1 reason for my EFI setup is no mater the weather I can reach in, turn the key and instantly start and go to idle.
also I have it setup with a very aggressive timing curve when its at WOT and conservative when cruising. It has very nice street manners.

Oh why not? I was going to leave this one alone because it's so old but for the record, my daily driver will have to be fuel injected. I took the carb off because of the adjusting, points replacing, crappy fuel economy, having to warm it up, etc. Some guys have great luck with carbs but at the time I wanted something a little different. I did this conversion back in 1999 and have put almost 50k miles on it and at 40k, it got it's first set of plugs and I get about 19-20mpg in town(10% ethanol) and 25mpg on the hwy regularly. I've had zero sensor failures, I don't run egr or cats and when it's in the teens in the early morning, I can go out and start it up without touching anything but the key. On the other hand, if I was running a big block car that I drag raced with a little juice, I would be running a carb, no doubt! :thumbsup:

Oh why not? I was going to leave this one alone because it's so old but for the record, my daily driver will have to be fuel injected. I took the carb off because of the adjusting, points replacing, crappy fuel economy, having to warm it up, etc. Some guys have great luck with carbs but at the time I wanted something a little different. I did this conversion back in 1999 and have put almost 50k miles on it and at 40k, it got it's first set of plugs and I get about 19-20mpg in town(10% ethanol) and 25mpg on the hwy regularly. I've had zero sensor failures, I don't run egr or cats and when it's in the teens in the early morning, I can go out and start it up without touching anything but the key. On the other hand, if I was running a big block car that I drag raced with a little juice, I would be running a carb, no doubt! :thumbsup:
If you had simply replaced the points with an electronic module, 90% of the problems you had with the carb would have went bye-bye. And depending on the cam and carb setup, the other 10% would have gone too. My 89 Ranger's roller 5.0 (Explorer shortblock, stock Explorer cam, ported E7 heads, Cobra roller rockers, Ford A321 intake, topped with a Holley 570 Street Avenger carb) would do exactly what you descibe down to 20*F, without a choke. Spark plugs went three years before I changed em, and even then, they still looked like they came out of the box. Fuel mileage was around 16-18 highway without overdrive in a 3500 lb truck.

If you had simply replaced the points with an electronic module, 90% of the problems you had with the carb would have went bye-bye. And depending on the cam and carb setup, the other 10% would have gone too. My 89 Ranger's roller 5.0 (Explorer shortblock, stock Explorer cam, ported E7 heads, Cobra roller rockers, Ford A321 intake, topped with a Holley 570 Street Avenger carb) would do exactly what you descibe down to 20*F, without a choke. Spark plugs went three years before I changed em, and even then, they still looked like they came out of the box. Fuel mileage was around 16-18 highway without overdrive in a 3500 lb truck.
It was a 2150 motorcraft carb with a worn throttle shaft bore, cracked base plate, an electric choke(which by the way was the only thing that didn't need replacement) and every rubber line on the intake was brittle and falling apart. The distributor was worn out(shaft bushing) and it went through points like crazy.(matchbook came in handy) I had just bought it a year and a half earlier and I already had the complete engine and trans with wiring harness that I got out of a 92 wrecked mark 7 that a buddy of mine found for me before I even owned the Maverick. I had gone the carb route on 2 other Mavericks and a Comet and 2 of those ran great. One was a pretty fast holley 4bbl car. I had an EFI setup and an engine so I figured it was worth a try. Frankly, I'm really happy with the setup but I did not do this because I was giving up on carburetors. Just wanted something different and It runs faster than the 4bbl car I had, gets great gas mileage and starts every time. Did I mention I only open the hood to clean the air filter and change the oil? Plus, mine is a daily driver and I hardly have time for maintenance, much less tinkering with a carb/points setup. To each his own. I'm not trying to persuade anyone one way or the other, but I love driving my car every day!

well i'm going with a 97 mercury mountaineer motor along with the 4r70w tranny, accessories, and the eec V. The block is in the shop now getting freshened. Still researching on the heads i want to use. keeping the same f4te cam. might go up to 1.7 roller rockers. going with gapless top rings. and going to use a tweecar r/t to reprogram
the mountianeer uses a gt40 style intake and i will use a 75mm throttle body and maf.
doing jmod on the transmission now. my suspension work is almost done too, so i will be all new suspension :)
if the ECM is a SLL4 I don't think tweecar has a strat for that yet. I bought a license for one thats incomplete from popsracing (I am the first to have it) and it has so many functions ans scalers it will make your head spin.

For quicker throttle response, i'll take a well set up carb:drive:

Did I mention I only open the hood to clean the air filter and change the oil? Plus, mine is a daily driver and I hardly have time for maintenance, much less tinkering with a carb/points setup.!
That's all I ever do with either the Ranger or the Comet and that's with it's 3x2 setup, haven't touched the settings on the carbs in 6 years.

Carburetor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When I built my mav I opted for the simplicity of a carb over EFI. But the time may come when I decide to change it over. I absolutely LOVE the FI in both my 55 fords, instant start, no tuning and they are a LOT quicker than the mav will ever be...IMO...oh yeah, dont forget they dont stink like the carbed cars do.http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/files/1/1/5/7/6/crownvic_pics_015_thumb.jpg (http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/files/1/1/5/7/6/crownvic_pics_015_original.jpg)

When I built my mav I opted for the simplicity of a carb over EFI. But the time may come when I decide to change it over. I absolutely LOVE the FI in both my 55 fords, instant start, no tuning and they are a LOT quicker than the mav will ever be...IMO...oh yeah, dont forget they dont stink like the carbed cars do.http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/files/1/1/5/7/6/crownvic_pics_015_thumb.jpg (http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/files/1/1/5/7/6/crownvic_pics_015_original.jpg)


That's a great looking install!:thumbs2:

When I built my mav I opted for the simplicity of a carb over EFI. But the time may come when I decide to change it over. I absolutely LOVE the FI in both my 55 fords, instant start, no tuning and they are a LOT quicker than the mav will ever be...IMO...oh yeah, dont forget they dont stink like the carbed cars do.http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/files/1/1/5/7/6/crownvic_pics_015_thumb.jpg (http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/files/1/1/5/7/6/crownvic_pics_015_original.jpg)
Very nice!! I'm working on one....

Very nice!! I'm working on one....

i sold my 56 :(

theres alot of good mpfi aftermarket efi systems out there that have self tune and easy fine tunning features such as holley hp efi and accel dfi

good throttle bodies woul be be holley avenger efi and msd atomic

EFI or Carb = Hilborn injectors look fun:rofl2:!

EFI or Carb = Hilborn injectors look fun:rofl2:!

Everything on them looks awesome right up untill you see the price tag...:rl:

Everything on them looks awesome right up untill you see the price tag...:rl:

But if you did the math its about the same, new carb and manifold or efi set up; the prices are very close

what about tbi

i found a sweet set up for a 351w on craigslist http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/2899353615.html

from the date on this thread...2002-08-16...we been talking about EFI swaps for a long time...

how many have or have tried aftermarket EFI?

me, I have tried 2 different ones...1 of them twice...:yup:

But if you did the math its about the same, new carb and manifold or efi set up; the prices are very close

Ummm lets see...well I did the math and for me it is no where near very close.....


Here you go this was taken from hillborns website

Pricing:

Hilborn EFI kit with Carabine ECU (http://www.hilborninjection.com/product.asp?Id=428&CatId=204) starting at $6290.00
Hilborn EFI kit with FAST XFI ECU (http://www.hilborninjection.com/product.asp?Id=425&CatId=233) starting at $6885.00
Hilborn EFI kit with Holley HP ECU (http://www.hilborninjection.com/product.asp?Id=478&CatId=258) starting at $6305.00

http://www.hilborninjection.com/product.asp?Id=365&CatId=176

Now that is for an EFI prepped hillborn manifold with injectors, wiring and ECU, thermostat housing(no the manifolds dont have provisions for a thermostat cast into them) and almost all other components to get it to run on the street including a fuel pump and pressure regulator, but sadly you sill have to talk about air filters... all 8 of them, granted you can get the cheapo foam ones for about $16 bucks each but if you want a nice K&N setup you are looking at a couple hundred bucks.

But say you did the other route and bought just the manifold prepped with fuel rails and injectors and added your own aftermarket ECU. Well if you are running on the steet you still need the thermostat housing and lines, air filters and fuel pump and lines.

The manifold only costs....... $2540.00

Now the cheapest fuel injection ECU that I know of is a megasquirt(short of frankensteining something out of a junkyard using a speed density setup). Now you can buy the ECU and all the wiring depending on which model you choose for around $400 to $800 but you have to litterally assemble it all yourself(yes that includes things like soldering diodes on the ECU motherboard) again depending on what kit you buy.

The kits show up to your door looking similar to this:16suspect (laptop, soldering iron and water bottle not included...and no this is not my setup)
http://www.85xr.com/85xr/mambots/content/multithumb/images/b.800.600.0.1.s.stories.projects.megasquirt.IMG_33 63.JPG


But say you went with one of the aftermarket wiring harnesses and ECU's from say ACCELL or F.A.S.T well the F.A.S.T. kit you would probably use is the XFI 2.0. you would have to buy one of their distributors to give you crank and cam position location and those are in the $300-$400 price range and the cost of the kit runs about $1,665.95 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-301000/

So with the cost of the FAST ECU and wiring and the manifold that only comes too a total of $4205.95 thats not including the fuel pump or pressure regulator or anything... you still have to buy those...

So lets compare that $4205.95 pricetag to one of the pre-built kits so I go to summit and look up fuel injection system for a small block ford that includes the manifold and I pick the most expensive one out of the bunch... It is a SEFI injection setup that includes a manifold, ECU and wiring, MSD distributor, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, heck it even comes with a mechanical fuel pump block of plate, everything to install the kit in your car on a long weekend.. Sorry the most expensive one isnt a FAST kit it is a... Edelbrock Pro-Flo2 setup and it has a whopping pricetag of...$3,764.99 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-352101/

Hmm I would say the $4205.95 is only about $500 more expensive then the edelbrock unit.. that wouldnt be too bad if it included everything...

Now the other option is a mechanical fuel injection setup:biglaugh:..... well if your running a mechanical fuel injection setup on the street for any considerable ammount of time and can keep it from flooding out at every stop light you are a better man then I am.. And Kinsler, Hillborn, and Inglese should hit you up to see how its done properly..

But say you were at bubbas swap meet and scored a sweet deal on a mechanical fuel injection manifold for your small block ford for a couple hundred bucks. Now both Kinsler and Hillborn will retrofit it for EFI for you, this includes welding on EFI bungs for the injectiors and drilling and reaming them out so the injectors fit and line up with the fuel rail, running air lines for the IAC valve and, setting up all the provisions for sensors like the TPS and the Map sensor. They usually charge about $1000-$1500(depending on the condition of the manifold). And remember for eight 29Lb fuel injectors your looking at a couple hundred dollar price tag on top of the manifold work too.

But really I would be interested in your math and how it works out, because if it is as you say and the prices are.....
about the same, new carb and manifold or efi set up; the prices are very close
I would really like to know because It would cause me to rethink my current strategy on what I am doing with my car..:2thumbs:

if i were doing a fi setup on my car i wouldn't go aftermarket. a few hundred bucks and a day at the pull apart you should be able to get a complete set up off of a fox body, plus it's easy'er and cheaper to find parts for a stock setup. you can always upgrade injectors and retune the ecu and find a better flowing intake if you need that. i know i haven't checked prices on everything i listed. but i spent well over $1000 on trying to get my carb setup and working right, between changing springs in the distributor and jets in the carb all the time, im just disgusted. i finally got it running good. but if i do a burn out the engine dies when i take my foot off the gas. i've been fighting these and tons of other drivability problems since i put the motor in the car. i know some of you can tune a carb just by looking at it but when im working with fuel injecton i can read all the sensors on the scanner and know exactly if the motor is running rich or lean or whatever it's doing.

i installed the fast. ezefi retrofit on my comet, just got the engine running yesterday. once i figured out what i f'd up it started right up. I'm using a gt40 intake from a mountaineer, along with the throttle body and injectors. i used a summit distributer and a msd ignition for the tach

injection system came with the engine:
$800 for the fast setup
$100 in my fuel pump and filters.
$200 for my distributer
$100 for wires
$50 for coil

i went with a baumann tcu for the 4r70w as well.

Mechcanical hillborn injector set up is only $1870. thats what I ment I wouldnt spend 6885 for a efi.

Seeing as it is that you live in Sacramento Ca. you'll be happier with EFI, if you make regular trips up in the mountains. Elevation changes is one area where a carb cannot compete with EFI. If it were not for that fact, I'd tell you to go carbed.

I was beginning to wonder why no one mentioned this critical fact... :tiphat:

Mechcanical hillborn injector set up is only $1870. thats what I ment I wouldnt spend 6885 for a efi.

Thats only the manifold, you still have to buy the pumps and lines, and the timing chain cover/depending on which setup you use. Since those things have a humongous mechanical pump too keep up with the mechanical injection. The smallest mechanical pump they make starts out at $650 and the drive setup is about $425.(thats not counting the metering valves, the shutoff valves or anything else like that...)

And if you think it is streetable even hillborn doesnt reccomend to run that setup on the street, that is the whole point of going with an fuel injection setup, for ease not more work. Speaking of which you havent even added in the cost of the pills(injector nozzles) you need 8 of each size(one for each injector, and its going to be different depending on altitude and humidity) and a vacuum guage to set the system up...Or havent you ever seen one of those setups tuned...its not neccisarily an quick and easy process.... Whats really bad is if you change altitude a couple hundred feet and you have to do the whole tuning process all over again..

Of course one of the things too remember too the mechanical fuel injection setups are about power not fuel economy you would be allot further ahead in the fuel economy segment going with a tunnel ram and dual quads.

Thats only the manifold, you still have to buy the pumps and lines, and the timing chain cover/depending on which setup you use. Since those things have a humongous mechanical pump too keep up with the mechanical injection. The smallest mechanical pump they make starts out at $650 and the drive setup is about $425.(thats not counting the metering valves, the shutoff valves or anything else like that...)

And if you think it is streetable even hillborn doesnt reccomend to run that setup on the street, that is the whole point of going with an fuel injection setup, for ease not more work. Speaking of which you havent even added in the cost of the pills(injector nozzles) you need 8 of each size(one for each injector, and its going to be different depending on altitude and humidity) and a vacuum guage to set the system up...Or havent you ever seen one of those setups tuned...its not neccisarily an quick and easy process.... Whats really bad is if you change altitude a couple hundred feet and you have to do the whole tuning process all over again..

Of course one of the things too remember too the mechanical fuel injection setups are about power not fuel economy you would be allot further ahead in the fuel economy segment going with a tunnel ram and dual quads.
Sounds like the way I want to go!

Part #260-f-8b looks to be all there, puchase a pump thru another company along with a regulator. Ase fare ase pill make your own. But it is more practical to purchase a carb manifold and pump and regulator. Just my opinion!

As far as pill make your own.

Awesome you must be a fellow machinist if you can make your own pills.

Otherwise you wouldnt be able to hold the the tolerencing of say a .050 dia hole in 8 different pills. :thumbs2:

So tell me since this is about a streetable unit that will possibly be run in the mountains how is the $2000-$3000 something for a hillborn mechanical just too run still cheaper/as cheap as the "new carb and manifold or efi set up" especially one that is going to actually drive on the street?:16suspect


Psst I will give you a hint the Projection III and all the components too make it work, fuel pump and everything is $1,815.00. And he would only have to do the initial tune....http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_3.php

Awesome you must be a fellow machinist if you can make your own pills.

Otherwise you wouldnt be able to hold the the tolerencing of say a .050 dia hole in 8 different pills. :thumbs2:

So tell me since this is about a streetable unit that will possibly be run in the mountains how is the $2000-$3000 something for a hillborn mechanical just too run still cheaper/as cheap as the "new carb and manifold or efi set up" especially one that is going to actually drive on the street?:16suspect


Psst I will give you a hint the Projection III and all the components too make it work, fuel pump and everything is $1,815.00. And he would only have to do the initial tune....http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_3.php
:tiphat: Im done here.

fuel injection is the the way imo
as with anything in life if you don't know how it works don't F with it...lol
or you could just learn how it works:biglaugh:

:tiphat: Im done here.

Uhh no offense, and I know you say your done, but I get the impression you have not dealt with any of the mechanical fuel injection units before and you dont actually know what you need to run one.

They are allot different animal then the EFI units, the pumps alone are capable of running 10 Gpm(600 Gph.. gallons per hour) at 100 PSI now compare that to an EFI pump say an Edelbrock 1790 EFI Fuel Pump they rate this for a 500-600 horsepower efi engine, now they flow 80 GPH at 45 psi @ 12 Volts. Do we see a difference here?

There is allot more then just buying a mechanical injection manifold slapping an electric fuel pump on and an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and turning the key,:chirp: those systems dont work that way, and if you try and set it up like that it wont run for S#$% if it doesnt flood out soo bad because you have to have a constant flow fuel system.

So if you dont like what i said take it with a grain of salt and go do your own homework on it, and you might find im right. Otherwise you can just blow off everything I said because you think you know more then I do.:tiphat:

Uhh no offense, and I know you say your done, but I get the impression you have not dealt with any of the mechanical fuel injection units before and you dont actually know what you need to run one.

They are allot different animal then the EFI units, the pumps alone are capable of running 10 Gpm(600 Gph.. gallons per hour) at 100 PSI now compare that to an EFI pump say an Edelbrock 1790 EFI Fuel Pump they rate this for a 500-600 horsepower efi engine, now they flow 80 GPH at 45 psi @ 12 Volts. Do we see a difference here?

There is allot more then just buying a mechanical injection manifold slapping an electric fuel pump on and an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and turning the key,:chirp: those systems dont work that way, and if you try and set it up like that it wont run for S#$% if it doesnt flood out soo bad because you have to have a constant flow fuel system.

So if you dont like what i said take it with a grain of salt and go do your own homework on it, and you might find im right. Otherwise you can just blow off everything I said because you think you know more then I do.:tiphat:
I made 600 horse with a four cyclinder kawasaki, I dont need help in that erea 7.20 188mph.:Handshake

I made 600 horse with a four cyclinder kawasaki, I dont need help in that erea 7.20 188mph.:Handshake


:hmmm: I thought this was a car forum not a kawi funnybike forum...

But you did reinforce my point :rl:

Voted for carb on this thread, but my maverick will be a injected small block and it will not perform ase well ase a carb set nor will it have the fuel mileage of those efi set ups. Just a car I seen in the seventys was a small block hilborn injected Maverick, black and chrome called the fosile but it was also totaled that day for the brakes didnt work.. My choice and that will be all, on to new and better things.. You cant tell me it wont work because rodders have been doing it for years.. I put my two sence in and you dove in to something completly oposite of what i was talking..Go ahead you found a cheaper efi set up, but that wouldnt be my choice. I will give you the win on this one Marcos.:Handshake

FORCED INDUCTION was not on the menu, so I didnt vote.:thumbsup:

from the date on this thread...2002-08-16...we been talking about EFI swaps for a long time...

how many have or have tried aftermarket EFI ( on their...Mav/Comet)?

me, I have tried 2 different ones...1 of them twice...:yup:


...:huh:...