$295 for a bare housing from these guys, http://www.quickperformance.com/Custom-Built-Housings_c_76.html I've helped install a few, they are pretty sweet.
Dave, the price from Leadmine Products includes taxes, and shipping. I said 400 but its really around 350ish. Cant beat that.
You got me beat. Just trying to help. here is leadmine's stuff. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-9-Ford-...7106062?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item33763dfd0e http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-Axle-...4631318?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4ac2bb3f96
It is 65/66 mustang rear. I'm just saying it will bolt up in our cars... It's 3/4" wider than ours... For my car that 3/4 inch is good because I can loose my 1/4 inch spacers and still have tire clearance around my springs... The spring perches are set at 44" same as our cars, so it will bolt in without having to move the springs...
Thanks I appreciate everyone trying to help but I'm going to take the advice one member left saying wait until I find out exactly what I have , pit it all in one thread and then we can analyze it, I did speak with Jeff per Levi's rec. and learned alot.........also I learn more as I take the car apart, if you recall I stated I had 3.0 rears Nope, nada...2.73's, I am surprised it ran as well as it did, anyway I am going to put together a thread once I get everything verified as to what I have but I did verify this with micrometers, it is a 3" stroke, it has .050 of deck cleareance (another gearhead was telling me to shave that deck flush), oh and this is the set up comp cams recommends based on what I have: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=817&sb=2 but of course I need this whole kit:http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Code=CC&Product_Code=K31-442-8&Category_Code=
Depending on which piston you decide on running.. the taller 8.24 deck height block, which you seemingly have here, can be cut and left at 8.21, 8.195, or 8.190 for a 0 deck. This 1.619CH piston works perfect with an 8.21 deck height. Better ring package too. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbp-p2488f-030/overview/make/ford The 1.6CH is the staple piston to use with a 8.190 deck height. Many to choose from. Then there's the 1.605CH slugs for a 8.195 deck height. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbp-p2482f-030/overview/make/ford This cam is better and has 8 degrees less seat timing while still achieving almost exactly the same @.050 numbers than the other "rumbly" cam. 351 firing order hurts nothing and it's also a split pattern to help promote scavenging. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=896&sb=2 If you thought that car was a blast to drive before?.. wait till you get the compression ratio up a full point with a 0 deck and some gear behind it. No stroker kit required for any teenager I know of. PS.. I'm thinking the comp guy didn't know you were running at 8.5 to 1 compression when he came up with that one.
right No he did not, I told him 9.5:1 based on a very knowledgable tech at work however he didn't know I was 0.050 below deck and 12cc's of piston dish..my bad
Pistons I wasn't going to replace the pistons as why buy 0.060 over pistons when this lower end is dead I plan on starting with a un-bored block unless I'm missing something?
no, not you. as usual.. it's probably me who missed something. I see now that the current combo was likely even closer to 8 to 1 compression with that dished piston. That's perfect CR for forced induction and you should just stick it all back together and put a blower on it! Done deal.. no more horsepower work required. So, let me ask you this. Do you trust that un-bored stock assembly(roller 5.0, right?) more so than what you see there in front of you? Personally speaking.. from a compression and ring seal standpoint.. I'd be much more confident of a piston swap into a known variable .060 block that's had the bore brushed up.. than the unknown variable of a junkyard motor running stock OEM junk. On the other hand.. kids first hotrod.. factory roller lifters.. "cross a more expensive bridge later on after it's broke or worn out".. etc.
??? Well I know there is some humor in here some where and I'm all for a good laugh even if it is at my exspense, I have thick skin but watch out...I can throw down the and spread it out with the best of em. But I am confused as the current motor, bored over 0.060 appears bore fit and tight, obviously it was not run long on the .060, I figured why not have the machine shop vatte and check the block, if all good new lower and cam bearings should be all it needs and we have a motor that may give him a solid 75k miles or more.......and since we have such low compression frig the blower, a 2 stage shot of laughing gas say 125hp first burst followed by another 200hp blast, that's 325hp on top of uh well if we only get 175hp NA, the HaHa bottle sends us to 500 hp......now that's cheap entertainment folks
Not sure what you may have misunderstood as "humor at your expense" in my last response?.. but it was only intended to be educational and helpful. As for the rest of all that?.. that's what many here were telling you in the first place over in the other thread about your cam issue. Clean it up.. install fresh bearings.. and go have fun again. Nitrous shots over 75 horses will likely kill those cast pistons very quickly. Especially if you don't know exactly how to tune for it. Kids aren't very good drivers to deal with sudden power surges either.
