I have a 72 Maverick with the 200ci inline six with the automatic c4 behind it. Yahh now im sure alot of you wouldn't really call that too fun or alot of power but for my college applications shes great. What would be extra fun is to fit a small 8lb turbo on it almost just for the spooling noise. I weld, and am considerably skilled at fabrication and mechanical aspects. So, how feasible is it to mount a turbo such as (http://store.max-redline.com/servlet/-strse-57/Detail) this one. While many would agree that specified turbo kits are "required" I know its not exactly true and many turbos are fit for any use. So has anybody turbocharged a 200/250? Only reason im asking is for fun on a college budget
I also understand that the crankshaft can go if the engine is putting out too much power, so lets say I run the turbo at 7lbs to avoid such an issue.
I'm a university student doing the exact same thing. To do it "correctly" it adds up, but for just 6-7 psi... you could basically bolt a turbo on with a jpipe, redneck reference the mechanical fuel pump, throw a check valve in to the tranny, tap the oil sending unit for oil, and go. You're looking at like 150$ in parts + the turbo haha. Don't let him tell ya it's not worth it. I'm installing a turbo same as you, with a 2 bbl self-modified holley, all new electronic ignition system, also self modified, intercooler, electronic fuel pump + BRPR, etc, im about a big bill in, but I know it'll be fun
"ipe, redneck reference the mechanical fuel pump, throw a check valve in to the tranny, tap the oil sending unit for oil, and go." What do these mods do? Im not making the connection between forced induction and oil :/
It definitely sounds like a fun mod on these 6s nobody expects anyone to turbo them so itll be nice to suprise the v8 religons. I just upgraded to the Pertronix electronic ignition and threw their flamethrower ii coil on for fun. Now im ready for a bigger change like a turbo
Jpipe - just running the exhaust to the turbo, redneck reference the mechanical fuel pump, fuel pressure has to increase with boost 1:1 preferably , check valve is a cheap 2$ part so you dont boost your transmission and blow tranny fluid all over and tapping the sending unit is the easiest palce to get oil from, for your turbo
So basically after mounting the turbo to the exhaust and the intake to the carb; I need to get a better fuel pump? Get oil to the turbo, and finally add a valve to the transmission. Does it really matter all that much if I keep the 1bbl on and maybe just open up the jets a little more?
Once youve got the air flowing the way it should, you could either upgrade your fuel pump, or do what many people have which is drilling and tapping a mechanical pump, which is far cheaper. but not as "right", and wont work as well at higher boost. but yes, you've basically got it. Then you just tune it haha.
I have half an electric fuel pump chillin off my block so I may as well finish the job if I go through with the turbo. As far as tuning goes, 1st, do all turbos need intercoolers? and 2nd tuning the blowoff valve (which im assuming does just that, adjust pressure) so it doesnt surpass lets say, 8psi.
In that case i reccomend the mallory 4309 regulator, all turbos dont need inter coolers, and blow off valves only regulate pressure on the cold side, a wastegate is required for the hot side. In fact if you have to choose one, choose theb wastegate.
a bit different bu no intercooler no problem. done cheaply. (warning: not ford content except the turbo) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcjC00J8FaM
I'm all for cheap horsepower and quicker learning curves.. but just keep in mind that hotter non-intercooled inlet air temps mean less power potential(less boost) and quicker time to engine meltdown if something's off from the optimal tune. And tuning a turbo is far more critical than an N/A motor as things get out of hand MUCH quicker. By the time you realize something's not right and read a plug to see what's up?.. it's too late and the damage is done. Those little cast pistons won't last very long at all and ring-lands and ring ends will butt pretty quickly during cylinder temp spikes. If you're going through all the time, trouble, and cash outlay to install a turbo.. the investment into a wideband O2 will be very cheap insurance.
I agree with te above... I got my wideband for 50$ used.. Worth every penny and then some just remember to jet fat and work back.
