negative. Seems like turbo the 200, pop it and swap in the 300? Sorry Im a v block guy so i dont know much about the inlines.
Alright fellas, im currently bartending but I'll add a bit more later when in done in the meantime op i suggest you join both the turbo forums And fordsix This community while AMAZING doesnt have near as much turbo knowledge as the first, and there is a full forum just for boosting small sixes on the second.
Alright quick run down before I crash, Ill outline a budget build, and a moderate build... no experience with Fuel injection builds or 600$ MSD boxes so I won't comment on them... the total is based on my costs, and you may be able to find different prices the very bare bones, it'll run but not necessarily the best, turbocharged inline 6 build would encompass these components... on top of an already well running 6, DO NOT TURBOCHARGE A POORLY RUNNING ENGINE. -The actual turbo, almost anything will work on a 6, they're torquey little *****s but can also rev rather high if you let em. TOtal: 200$ - Piping, kinda self explanatory. This includes check valves to keep boost away from things that shouldn't have boost Total: 300$ -A Blow off valve, as stated before this regulates pressure on the COLD side, basically it's just an on off switch, if there's boost on both sides its closed, if there is boost on one it opens, like when you close the throttle and suddenly manifold pressure is negative, but there's still boost outside the throttle blades wanting in. This part isn' strictly necessary but I recommend it. -A waste gate, this regulates pressure on the HOT side, BEFORE the turbo, it lets exhaust bypass the turbo once a certain level of boost has been made. TOtal:400$ -The carb hat, don't skimp on this, we are rather pressed for hood room in these cars, but get the best carb hat you can, getting air into the carb as smoothly as possible is VERY important. I'm in the process of o-ringing my carb hat to seal better than a gasket. Total: 400$ -Oil lines, already covered them, -10 AN return and -4 AN feed is what's generally reccomended. Total: 500$ (THis includes all my oil, new fuel and vaccum, and my battery relocation wire, I cant remember the break down) -Some carb mods, it depends on what carb you're running but at the very least you want a solid float, those brass suckers will collapse. Message me if you want more details. -A way to up fuel pressure with boost pressure. You can drill out then tap and/or epoxy a fitting into what used to be the atmospheric vent on a mech pump. Or do what I did and pour 350$ just into the fuel system. Your call. Total:550$ (guesstimate as I skipped this step andwent straight to 2 bbl) -Finally, a wideband. You really won't be able to tune it well without one, these days you can get a NEW albeit barebones one for 160ish, and that's well worth it. BUt scour the classified... they can be had dirt cheap. Total: 600-800$ Do all the above which can be thrown together in a day if you'd like, and you'll have a real running turbocharged mav/comet You could do it FAR cheaper if you wanted, I had all my lines custom made, etc. For those of us who'd like more than "a bit more pep" and would rather have stump-pulling torque.... -A real electronic fuel system, a Walbro 255 and mallory 4309 is a proven combo up to some ungodly PSI... 300$ -A larger carb, while I DO believe linc on fordsix was running the equivalent of a 13 second QM through the one barrel, for the amount of time he spent messing with it, and drilling extra holes like a redneck power valve, he could have down a 2 bbl swap easily. Just don't go TOO large! 400$ into this so far with a 6 an feed, nitrophyl float, customized metering block, main body mods, and a shaved choke horn. -An intercooler, I bought one with the inlet and outlet on the same side, not the most efficient, but convenient and better than nothing. Hot air is bad! 250$ including the extra piping and fancy radiator couplings -Electronic ignition swap, msd, GM HEI, duraspark, anything is better than points. Plus many have boost retard features... mine does and the module cost me 20$, you just have to be frugal... 150$ -Boost gauge, I would have put this above but if I had to only choose one, I'd rather have the wideband. In any case it should be obvious why you want this 20$ -new tires I don't wanna talk about it$ Hope this made a decent amount of sense, basically, how fast do you want to go? I consider 600-800 VERY affordable for turboing a car, the next 1000$+ maybe not so much Goodnight from Canada
He said..."Only reason im asking is for fun on a college budget ."... sounds like any other Gear Head..."I want to go 200 MPH for under $200"...
Hey, unless the us is significantly different.. 600 is doable on a college budget, not all at once maybe but over a few months. And thats 600-800$ lol
I've never done anything on a "budget" that didn't turn out to be a disaster. That said, for running 8# or less, I wouldn't even consider an intercooler. Invest (notice that word = $$$) in a good progressive alcohol injection kit and pipe it into the air hat. We don't have any E85 stations near here, but can get methanol for $3/gal from the circle track guys...
Ehh some people dont believe a budgeted project can turn out well but I got my car for free from family and have basically rebuilt and restored her to show condition all on a budget only getting 13 hours a week at work that being said, theres a Ford Probe with the Mazda F2t in the junk yard untouched. I can score its intercooler and blow off valve for probably close to nothing considering the guys there only speak NA v8s. Also, as stated earlier what does this "O2" system do as far as helping my engine from self destructing if anything goes awry? And do I realllly have to replace my float? My carb isnt made anymore and has proven to be close to impossible to find new parts for, and if replacing it due to that is a must I wouldn't have money to turbo the car :/
maybe it's just me but if your doing all the work yourself and willing to put almost a grand into your car wouldn't going to a v-8 be a viable option. with the things you need to go over to a v-8 such as motor which can be picked up relatively cheep (if your not looking for three hundred horse) & mounts a set of headers and various other parts which I believe could be all picked up for less than a grand and you would have as good as gas mileage(or close) and ALOT more torque. this is with you doing all the work and by the way you talk are very good at finding deals which is really nice. unless you like the thought of driving a turdo'd six banger, which don't get me wrong I think is cool too. all of this is just a humble opinion.thumbs2:
Im considering a v8 swap just as much as a turbo mod the only reason im pressing towards the turbo is its rare to see such a mod on the Falcon 6, it would be lighter than the v8 swap, and be a little more fun. Not to mention the block thats in my car only has 53k on it (she was totaled in the 80s and sat for 14 years)
The wideband O2 system reads the air:fuel ratio your engine is seeing, at cruise you want 13-14ish, on acceleration, about 11.5. Which is richer. As for the floats, just get any old NITROPHYL holley float, cut it down to the shape of your float, and solder it together. It'll work.
I disagree only in your assesment of torque. You would have a higher powerband with a v8, but down low a turbo i6 would at least match the v8. Dont get me wrong the v8 has more potential, but people are running 11s and better with turbo i6s. So it really is personal preference. Of course, a turbo v8 would crush the turbo i6 just based on displacement alone!
How much do O2 systems cost? Assuming I get this turbo for 130, the intercooler for 50, and the blow off valve for 50, I'll probably have about 200 left to spend. And as far as a v8 swap goes I'll have to replace the C4 I have now right? Where as if I turbo the 6 I wont have to.
I guess it all depends on what you call "down low". Turbo motors generally don't make any more power than a non-turbo motor at lower rpm's and only come into their power bands after the turbo spools. Even a mild V8 will crush that little turbo motor at anything under about 3,000 rpm. To make it spool faster(come up into its power range).. you'll need much shorter gears to keep it from lumbering off the line until the turbo spools... but then that will defeat some of the extra power being made because the shorter gears will not allow it to stay in it's primary power range of say.. 2,800 - 5,200 rpm for a longer period of time. Now if we're talking a supercharger that has near instant boost?.. totally different story but even then.. we're still only talking about a cast piston 200 cubic inch engine here. IOW, you'll not be seeing 400 lb/ft of torque from that little "stock motor" with a smaller single turbo. And especially not with the 1bbl carb and/or in the lower rpm ranges. Figure on around 2,500 usable/boosted rpm range before that things all huffed out and you have to shut er' down.. or shift again. The biggest thing to keep in mind when dreaming about this stuff is that displacement still rules with a turbo motor too. Bigger displacement allows more to be crammed into any given cylinder size/combustion space and it takes far less boost to make similar power to a smaller motor at higher rpm. You'll need a much more serious bottom end and much better induction package if you want to squeeze it harder and wing it higher. I'd be amazed to see this little motor break 300 horse with a low budget buildup. Will be great from a novelty standpoint. but it won't be what anyone will call a powerhouse. And comparing it to the performance potential of any other "turbo 6 cylinder" of some other brand is very misleading to say the least.
This is actually where this whole idea came from, apart from the turbo 300 Mav that was in Motor Trend (I think) a year or so ago.
