Brake Line 101?

So, I scrapped my stock brake lines in the engine bay a while back and need to run new ones for the rebuild.

1.) Do the new ones need to be equal length or coiled for any reason?

2.) Anyone have pics of a custom routing they did that worked well?

I want to do something simple. I filled/smoothed the firewall, but, this isn't going to be a show car, by any stretch of the imagination. Just need ideas for something clean and serviceable. I've been playing around with some options, but, input/advice would be appreciated because I tend to over-complicate the bejusus out of everything.

Thanks guys,
Eric

 

I only had to run a new rear line cause I accidentally clipped it with a grinder cutting rust out. They sell a lot of cool bending tools, but it was easier for me to hand bend the line under the car with no lift. If you do that you just have to be gentle so as not to kink the line. And you need a flare kit.

 

Front engine bay view. Have someone help you bleed the lines afterward.

 

I basically copied a 1-2 of the original lines, most of them I just winged it. I put coils in the lines off the master, I put them there for the same reasons the factory did, and cause I think they look cool. I'll try to get pics later tonight.

P.s. buy the best line flaring tool you can afford, I been through 6 auto parts store sets on 4 vehicle. I gave up on cheap ones and bought a matco hydraulic flare tool.

 

Clairification - it's a "double flare tool" we are talking about.

 

Sounds you like are more interested in making your own, but Right Stuff Detailing sells new, pre-bent lines for our cars. You can get them in stainless also. More expensive than doing it yourself obviously, but it's just another option.

 

The lines have the loops at the MC as stress relief... When brake is pressed hard the firewall flexes and could possibly crack a line over time, unless you use flexible lines they should be there... Also don't let them chafe on one another, firewall, etc.. The coil on them is to prevent that possibility, not really necessary if you're careful with routing... At the factory they were to ensure the I don't care types on the assembly line couldn't mess up too badly...

 

I just checked the web site. They don't list a comet or Maverick. Are they the same as one of the other cars listed?

 

I think they are listed under MUSTANG for some reason.

 

Yeah, unfortunately their application guide is not too Maverick/Comet friendly. You can either give them a call or do a search for Maverick. http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Maverick

 

Great. Thanks guys. I have tubing benders and just ordered a Ridgid flaring tool from work. I hated having to buy extra tubing just to get the flared ends and then splicing it in.

I was just wondering about the coils because, when I pulled up some pics of "custom brake-line routing" on Google, almost all the jobs had no coils coming off the MC. Checked my buddy's 2014 Jeep to see if the new vehicles were utilizing coils by some chance. I didn't find any. Instead, the anti-lock/proportioning valve unit was mounted to rubber isolators. Interesting.

I guess you guys are right, though. Ford would not have done "unnecessary" brake line routing because that would have made costs go up in production. Maybe, the factory routing, really, was the most efficient and simple.

Eric

 

Just an update: I received my Ridgid flaring tool kit today (PN 345DL) and it's friggin' sweet! Works great, made in USA, and lifetime warranty. The tubing cutter knob rides on bearings and is very smooth. Also, comes with a spare cutting wheel attached to the bottom of the knob and a spring-assisted folding reamer on the back.

I've read that guys have had problems using it on 3/16" line because there are no "teeth" inside that, particular, size die on the die bar. All the other sizes have "teeth/ribs" to keep the tube from slipping out of the die while pressure is being applied from the anvil.

However, I double-flared some of the original 3/16" line that came on the Maverick. It worked perfectly and matched the factory flares dead-on. Speculation has it that if you end up with metric stuff from the parts store, this is what can slip out of the die and you can wrap it in emery cloth to remedy the problem. You have to make sure you, actually, get SAE 3/16" line to function correctly, according to Ridgid.

Just thought I'd post this review in case anyone searches this in the future.

Eric