torque/HP estimate? 351w roller block

I have an f4te 351w with the following specs Bored .040 decked to 9.480 h336cp pistons 10:1 compression. .041 quench stock bottom end except rods resized ARP bolts trick flow camshaft .500/.510 lift 221/224 duration @.50 275/279 avd. 112 lobe sep. 108 intake CL. edelbrock performer cylinder heads 2.02 1.6 180 intake runner. stock roller lifters new, comp cams 1.6 roller rockers. Weiand stealth intake manifold. 1 5/8 long tube headers stock duraspark II ignition 650 cfm holley vacuum secondaries. Looking for around 425 torque and 375 flywheel HP, Might change rockers to 1.7 for more lift. Any Guesses or similar builds that im in the ballpark with desired torque and HP of 425 torque 375 HP max rpms will be 5500-6000?

 

I'd say around 400hp and 325 to 350 torque.

 

351w build

Why the low torque? I thought with my relatively low advertised duration that torque would be at least higher than HP. Any suggestions on how to raise torque without losing much HP? all suggestions are appreciated. This motor was originally going into a 1970 maverick, but decided to keep the 302 in maverick and currently Looking for a 83-88 t-bird or similar or a fox body mustang. I wanted to have a low end grunt engine, with max torque over 400 at about 3500-4000 and max HP around 5500 rpm. Since hp and torque are always equal at 5250, im thinking I should have at least 375 torque at 5250, let me know why I am wrong. What about advancing cam timing 2 degrees? or would that just lower my peak HP. I love feedback even if it is negative or contrary, just as long as it is based on experience. Thanks again and God bless, wade

 

You're talking about a small-block with a 6000 RPM redline and a fairly mild cam.
You're not gonna get big-block torque numbers from that set-up, however I think it would run great in a Maverick.

 

Yeah,you will need a bigger cam to get where you want to go.At least .550 lift & enough duration to pull to 6500 rpm.1.7 rockers will only get you about another .030 of lift.I have a brand new comp cam HR290 roller that cam in a mtr I bought,still not big enough to do what I wanted.It only revs to 6000 & has a .544 lift,would be good in a 4 wheel drive trk,that`s about it.

 

Lordy a stock HO 5.0 will make 300ft lb torque, this thing is gonna make probably 375 ft lbs(def not 425) and 400Hp at around 6K RPM...

 

375tq 400hp

I am ok with those numbers and I understand that it is all just guesswork, my heads flow ok numbers at low to mid-lift, backcut valves 30 degrees so my lift at .500 is about max at 240 and drops a little to .550 so I don't think lift would be much of a gain but duration maybe gain some ponies and would push my rpms up, I want a mild build that will last a while and with pretty much stock bottom besides rod bolt upgrade 6000rpm peak HP is about where I want to be. thanks all for your input it is greatly appreciated. God bless, wade

 

could be alot of reasons it only revs to 6k?

what heads are you running , springs, intake? static compression ratio?headers? fuel injected or carbureted? there are a lot of factors that could make a large cam like that either peak at 6000 rpm, your heads, intake, exhaust, or maybe the cam is too big for the rest of your setup. I don't want to pull 6500, 6000 is fine for me and I know a 357w can make 400 hp even at 5500 if it has the right components that are working together. sounds to me like 6000 rpm rev wouldn't be limited by good heads or fairly large cam...... maybe your rev limiter is set at 6k lolz???

 

Quit worrying about the numbers.

Just put the engine together, mount it in the car, and DRIVE THE SNOT OUT OF IT!!!

It will be WAY more power than the car was meant to have, and it will be dangerous fun to drive.

If you don't like it, you can swap cams and heads later.

But I promise...you will like it!

 

I agree with this ^

 

whoozurdaddy,my car will be drag only,so w/ the parts I have I willneed to get everything out of the mtr. possible.No turbo,procharging or NO2,just a n/a mtr.I have a new older crane commander solid cam out of a 302 which will pull to 6800 rpm.However,I`ll retard it 2 degrees & put 1.7 rockers on it giving it a .579 in & .603 ex lift which should make pwr to 7000rpm.Ported Roush 200 cast iron hds,.040 probe flat tops w/ scat rods,steel crank & girdle w/ a windage tray & 8qt pan.I`ll need at least an 800cfm carb & it will have 1 3/4 tube headers,probably vic jr intake.This combo should get me to a reliable minimum of 450hp & 450 ft lbs torque,could be more but I`m a realist.Still,in a 2500lb car if it hooks,that`s a 10 sec qtr mi.

 

Nice build

WOW!!! I wish I had the money to build a motor like that. I started saving parts and watching Craigs list and ebay for good used parts, and buying the parts new that I don't trust as a used part, like roller lifters pistons etc. I have a total including heads and machine work of about 1800 and still need pushrods, and a carb and intake, I had to stick with hyper pistons stock rods resized w arp bolts. I am still pretty confident I can make 400 hp @ around 6000 rpm maybe even 5500, my engine is very close to edelbrock 400hp 412 torque, flat tappet build, except I have roller cam and another full 1 point of compression. their build peaked torque at 3800 and hp at 5500. Thanks for sharing your build, and If I am way under that on my numbers I can always change cam and other parts for more HP. I want a daily driver w some snort that will last 100k plus without a tear down, again ty for sharing your build it seems pretty solid and I would think that your conservative numbers are close to what you stated. One thing I wish I would have done is went w solid roller instead of hydraulic roller.

 

You`ll have less maintainence w/ those hydraulics & they work really well.I thought about grinding my blk & using the dog bone set up I have so they would fit properly.A comp cams xe294 is a pretty stout cam but it costs $300 & it won`t get me to 7000rpm.With a stick shift,my 4.56 gears & 29in tall slicks at that rpm this car should be pretty fast.My blk is a 74 not made for hydraulics so you have to use the retro fit.I`m hoping to sell a $1000 worth of 302 parts I have to a guy up in Richmond to buy my rods,pistons,bearings & rings.Then all I have to do is get blk decked,cleaned & cam bearings,I can install my own freeze plugs.I`ll need push rods to because the ones I have are to short.Basically,all said & done,I still need about $2000 worth of machine work & parts to finish the mtr.

 

decided to go with a 224/232 .550 lift camshaft

I decided to add about 0.050 lift and a little duration 224/232 and 286/294 advertised to my camshaft, I sent old one back for refund towards bigger cam, my valve spring setup was good for up to about another .050 lift on intake and .070 on exhaust. I know its not a huge change but I wanted to make sure I was making power up to around 5800-6000. Not sure if the slight change will do it but it only cost me 20 bucks shipping and 20.00 more for the different cam. ;-) I should still be about .100 from coil bind or so, and @ about 350 open pressure on valves 135 closed. No one wants an undercammed motor, but I want a balance of driveability, durability, and power.

 

Yeah,that cam will definately have a lope,should sound really good too.I think those #s willget you where you want to go,w/ an auto trans you`ll need at least a 3500 stall or a stick won`t matter.Get a minimum of 3.70 gears & that thing will fly,also you`ll need traction bars & sub frame connectors.Look around & you can get some connectors that weld right in w/ no cutting of the floor.