Please tell me how you bled your hydraulic clutch ? I have the kit sold by Rosehill Performance, a wilwood 3/4 master and a cnc 7/8 slave... On all the classic mustang forums most say pull the piston partway out and then gravity bleed, well I have no clue how they pulled the piston out I can't get a hold on it... bleeding the master seems straight forward using the buddy system... Markso125 used a similar kit on his tremic but did not go into detail on how he bled it...
start with a gravity bleed. fill the reservoir with brake fluid, and open the bleeder screw. now wait and watch till brake fluid starts coming out the bleeder. then close the bleeder. try the pedal. i dont to bleed it likes brakes due to the slave springing back when the bleeder opens. ive used both a pressure bleeder and a vacuum bleeder with great results. you can get a vacuum bleeder for pretty inexpensive any auto parts store. ive found the 3/4 bore mc is too small and doenst give enough travel at the slave.
Well I bled this thing till the cows came home... I finally got it working, but the clutch engaged right off the floor... Russ (joedirt) told me that's because I put to much preload on the throw out bearing... When I back off on the preload, it wont go in gear again... I'll keep messing with it... I hate to think that I need a bigger bore M/C , the classic mustang guys are getting good results with this kit but have the same problem bleeding the air out... At least I know my $300 trans works, I backed it out of the driveway and went around the block got it to 3rd gear...lol
I think I need to install the slave rod in the inner hole on the fork, if I use the outer hole wear the factory cable go's it puts it at a angle... I will have to shorten the rod because it rubs on the bell housing because there is a lot of it sticking through...
You either still have air in the system, or the master cylinder is too small. I'd suspect the later as you're trying to actuate a bigger slave with a smaller master cylinder. It is not easy to bleed these systems, it takes many sessions and hours to get the air out. Took me several sessions to bleed the system on my Comet (3/4 Wilwood, McCleod hydro T/O bearing) I both let gravity and pressure to finally get the air out. Pumping the pedal 75-100 strokes then bleeding works the best. I also extended the bleeder line up to the rear of the intake to make it easier on me to bleed it on my own. Also left it sitting over night with a big syringe and hose hung from the hood full of fluid several nights. I mounted the reservoir to the rear of the shock tower with an "S" bend in the feeder hose, that's the only place I could find to mount it, you cannot get the air out the input side with the "S" In the hose, you have to hang the reservoir higher, then remount it without disconnecting the hose after bleeding it. I've gone through all this previously with a V8 Ranger, bleeding is a major pain, but once it's done and the system is working, it's maintenance free. Also get a friend to work the pedal after you've got it working and watch the firewall to see if it's flexing as it's worked. If it is you WILL have a failure in the firewall over time if used enough. If the firewall flexes, it will develop stress cracks leading to a failure in the wall
They other guys are right, I will be putting a 1" master in tomorrow. My trans would not go into gear also.
I put a 1" bore master in my wish list just in case...lol... I can't help but wonder why everyone sells the 3/4 7/8 combo if it doesn't work... I also keep reading that a 1" master with a 7/8 slave will yield a pedal that's hard to push...
it has to do with where the master cylinder connects to the pedal. to use the 3/4 you would need to move the connection point down on the pedal. this will reduce the leverage ration on the pedal and increase the push distance on the master cylinder. the easiest way ive found to bleed a hydraulic clutch is with the phoenix reverse bleeder. it only takes about 5 min to set up, bleed the system and put away.
Every race car I ever built had a hydraulic clutch (over 25 years of messing with these). Every one had a 3/4" MC. That was with slave cylinders, hydraulic t/o bearings and internal clutch type trannys. They are all a pain to bleed, much worse than bleeding brakes. We used a pressure bleeder and usually did it several times over several days. SPark
My connection point is about 1/2 below the factory whole. The 1" MC works with no grinding. BUT OMG, it is hard to push in. I never felt a clutch like this.
I got mine working, but I still have a leak on the 2 piece reservoir.. I have a wilwood billet 1 piece reservoir that I will use as soon as I find a -3 to barb fitting, so I can connect the hose... The one thing I noticed is how close to the floor the clutch engages, I barely put any preload on the throw out bearing and it's still close... The clutch catches about an inch off the floor...
Yes , I read about that on some of the mustang forums... I think the 3/4 is going to work as soon as I get the leak fixed and bled somemore...
I looked into a mustang steve cable clutch, what worries me is the cable will pass right through my headman long tubes... I thought maybe wrapping the cable with a heat shield where it passes between the tubes...
