How much torque can mavericks body handle

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by bLaH_hA, Sep 21, 2014.

  1. bLaH_hA

    bLaH_hA Member

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    As stated above how much can the body handle before adding support. Starting to build the maverick for the motor so I am looking to find out what supports I need and weld. I really don't want to do a roll cage I know it's for safety but not an option want to keep it a bad ass sleeper. The crate motor I decided on is the 427 rated 610ft lbs of torque
     
  2. SamsDad

    SamsDad Member

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    ROFLMAO, your Mav will be a corkscrew first time you punch it with 610 ft. lbs. IF it can hook up:rofl2:
     
  3. bLaH_hA

    bLaH_hA Member

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    I know I need sub frame connectors but I know there has to be more
     
  4. SamsDad

    SamsDad Member

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    I know and I wasn't trying to be a wise azz, I don't know what's needed I just had a mental pic of 610 ft. lbs. of torque in a Mav and I got tickled.....others will be able to answer I'm sure:)
     
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  5. lm14

    lm14 Member

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    The 1970 Pro Stock Boss 429 Mavericks and Comets never tied the frames. They put in a simple roll bar and they hooked pretty hard.

    SPark
     
  6. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    I don't think a roll cage will be the give away with that engine, something tells me that that 427 will tell it's own tale unless you put some very restrictive exhaust on it in which case you won't have to worry about all that power!:chirp:
     
  7. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    put through the floor sub frame connectors in. run them as far along the sub frames as you can. then i would put runners in to connect to the rocker panels. if you weld up as much of the body seams in the car as possible that will make it much stronger also. ive also heard of people cutting the ends off of the rocker panels and sliding tubing through them the whole length and then putting the ends back on.
    put really good strut tower brace on and monte carlo bar.
    consider this. the torque is applied through the motor mounts and the rear suspension. those are the areas that are the strongest in the car to begin with. i would well all the shock tower seams. all the seams on the sub frame from the shock tower back to the firewall and under the floor pan. i would weld the rear sub frames and torque boxes along all the seams.
    you will want to either run a solid motor mount, a through bolted motor mount or a torque strap.
    pay attention to how well your doors open and close. when they start getting harder to close, the body is being twisted.
     
  8. RASelkirk

    RASelkirk Retired!

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    This is basically all I've done to my Mav chassis, I can put a jack under one lower control arm and lift the entire front end evenly with it.
     
  9. Pony Express

    Pony Express Haul'in @**

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    I agree with all including the roll bar. While solid motor mounts are advertised to give better response/track times, my experience with them were on the German Autobahn in my 2004 Mach I. Absolutely TERRIBLE at 150mph!
     
  10. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    I read an article about stiffening up an early Mustang and they got pretty scientific with each step, actually measuring the twist that they could apply to the car with it tied down to the floor, etc. They stated that the BEST thing you can do to reinforce the back end of the car is to install a sheet metal plate that covers the entire area behind the back seat between the wheel tubs... that it made a significant difference compared to many other mods they tried.
    It could just be bolted-in, too. Welding would be better.

    Got to agree on the advice on the sub-frame connectors .... through the floor and welded to it and tied to the rockers. By doing this, you are adding a lot of good geometry to the whole set-up. If they are welded just on the ends, they work well front-to-back, but don't do much about radial twist.
     
  11. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    A roll cage is for strength...it ties things together. The safety factor is a byproduct from adding strength
     
  12. RASelkirk

    RASelkirk Retired!

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    Once you have a cage, you'll need to be constantly concerned with whether or not your noggin will contact it under duress. Nobody drives with a helmet unless at the track. There was a long thread on Yellowbullet concerning severe head trauma incurred while driving a caged car w/o a helmet...
     
  13. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    A 6 point rollbar and some window tint might be sleepy enough. If running that much motor, things can go badly in a hurry, and it could really save you.

    You're not going to fool anyone with the exhaust note anyway. That fun ended for me once I swapped in the 351W with a medium cam. I've never worried about not having backup lights on the car. If it's running, people around you are going to know it.
     
  14. bLaH_hA

    bLaH_hA Member

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    concern I have with the role cage is I will loose the availability of my back seat. I have a daughter that loves the car and I want to be able to have her ride with me in the back.
     
  15. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    Riding in a car with that much motor without additional protection isn't a very good choice for either one of you.

    My son needs another car right now, and I found a really clean 75 four door Mav for a good price, but vetoed it. I didn't want my grandkids riding around it all the time when there is much better crash protection in cars in the past 15 years.
     
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