Awesome stuff Bryant!! That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm too worried about any sanctioned races yet. I might get there though at some point. My steering box felt good when I drove it last year, but I only put like 30 miles on the car before I tore it apart! It only has 68k miles on it. So what are you running for rear springs?
Not a major hiccup, but you are not going to find many tires in that size. I think you are going to end up falling down to 275/40/17. This size is also a non-staggered size option for your 245/45/17 fronts as well if that is important to you.
Huh, I'm planning on Nitto 555's, but I'll be mostly street driving anyways. Everything else, is pretty much what I've been thinking.
im running 4 leaf springs in the rear. i think they are the espo springs. im considering trying removing one leaf. their is a lot of talk on pro touring about a soft spring stiff sway bar set up being the popular new way to set up cars. at least removing a spring is an option if you get a 4 leaf set up. ive been curious about fiberglass leafsprings. they ditch over 40lbs of weight and are susposed to have better characteristics for performance. sense reading ron suttons stuff i think i would a custom 3 link instead of spending the money on leafsprings.
the nittos are great on the street. the car corners really well and rides nicely. the tread doesnt seem to wear down that fast. i suspect that they are drying out fast than wearing out.
I priced some composite monoleafs for my car. About $400 for the springs plus another $250 for the traction device that resembles a caltrac. Pretty pricey.
A friend of mine has this on his car, I'm pretty sure it could be adapted to Mavericks, I should be finding out pretty soon. http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rpss_fd.html
One of the things I have been working on to attenuate my suspension/steering mods is reducing weight over the front wheels. So far I think I have removed 300 plus pounds by going to small bumpers, relocating the battery to the trunk, ditching the A/C and replacing a lot of iron with aluminum on the engine.
I know you said you were staying with a 302 based engine. If your considering anything bigger I'd go MII. I also have the TCP setup with coil overs but am now stuck with the older 302 based engine. I thought about a coyote motor but that's out due to no room with the shock towers.
you can shave the shock tower. with the coil overs you can shave a lot out of the shock towers. i believe the coyote maverick still has its shock towers. i think they moved them out ward to get the clearance. this is not a good idea for handling.
If I had more disposable income I would love to have a coyote motor!!! I've decided to run with a stock setup for now. Just get some springs and shocks and bigger sway bars. After I get a year or two of driving then I can start saving up for the tcp coil overs. Or something else if something better comes along. I guess I'm still a little uncertain about the best way to lower the rear. I know some use lowering blocks, but is that ok for some autocross? Like I said, I won't be doing too many events and will mostly be street driven.
im using 1 1/2" lowering blocks. its no problem for handling. i would do the roller spring perches and shelby drop when you do your springs and shocks. you can get the diy perch kits for around $30.
I will do the roller spring perches at the same time for sure. I will also look into the Shelby drop. I thought I read somewhere that with the stock control arms they will hit the shock tower if you drop them. Any truth to that?
Somebody said, the later cars already had it done, but no one has ever posted pictures to confirm that, it would be nice to compare a 71 shock tower and the locations of the holes, to a 73, and a 74..