Can you assist me in geting better ¼ mile performance while keeping my Comet a streetable car?

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by Hotrock, Jan 6, 2015.

  1. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    This is my 1st thread. I’m looking for 11 and 12 sec ¼ mile 302/306 NA pump gas Maverick/Comet combinations. Please provide as much information as possible. This is my setup: 306ci stock bottom except for Keith Black light weight pistons, AFR 165 comp heads milled to 54cc, Trick Flow stage II cam, Weiand dual plane, a fat 650 Speed Demon 80/84 jets, Ford Dura Spark ignition, c4 with shift kit and TCI 2,400 stall converter, 3:80 diff. My `72 Comet has a full interior, no weight reduction anywhere and a pretty much stock suspension. Best Time 13.02 @ 107.52 with lousy 2.0 60 foot times.
     

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  2. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    You need more converter(3200-3500) plus fix your traction issues to get the short times down, at 107 mph you already have a mid 12 sec ride... A MSD or similar ign system would likely give a small boost, and the carb is probably too rich...
     
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  3. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    Krazy Comet Thanks for the input. My 306 seems to like the 80/84 jets. Does not smoke and reducing them tends to lower my ET. I know the converter is an issue. Not sure if your suggested stall speed works well on a street driven car. Heat buildup? Are you running that stall converter on the street?
     
  4. Maverocket

    Maverocket Bob Williams

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    You forgot to mention cam specs, which dictates the entire setup. The dual plane intake may be limiting RPM potential.
     
  5. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    The Trick Flow Stage II cam specs are duration intake 224 exhaust 232 @ .050 and lift of intake 542 exhaust 563. My Comet performs best when shifted at 6,700 RPM.
     
  6. dan gregory

    dan gregory Member

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    That is a good gear you have,if it is not a posi,then do that w/ some 26in slicks about 8in wide which should fit.Find some 6cyl rear springs off of another Mav & put cal-tracs on it with good shocks(may take some trial & error w/ shocks),& weld in some sub frame connectors.Get a belly bar that goes underneath the mtr which bolts the front of the frame together,all these things will stiffen your chassis & make your rear squat on launch knocking down your 60ft times.This could get you in the 11s,if you go w/ a higher stall you will be pushing your limits for a street car.Don`t go to radical or you won`t be able to drive it on the street as much as you would like & suddenly it will become a strip only car.GOOD LUCK & have fun
     
  7. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    You could always go with the 4R70W with a high stall lockup convertor.
     
  8. ray-g151

    ray-g151 Member

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    The trick is to run an 8 inch converter that is set up tight. Had a lot a friends run 4000-4500 stall, it is supposed to keep the heat down. I was told it will build less heat than a 3500 stall 10 inch. I personally don't mind the stall, every combo I have run went to at least 5k. I took the trans temp gauge out years ago, I don't want to even know the temp, and luckily, my transmissions hold up. BTW I've been driving on the street with converters that were from 5500-6000+ stall for the last 10 years and have never had any issues. Of course they were not daily drivers.

    I had a 306 combo about 15 years ago that went mid elevens. It was a DSS short block with Edelbrock Victor Jr heads (probably too big for this combo), Victor Jr. intake, 750cfm 4150, 9:1, 4.56 gear, and a 5k stall 8" converter from Trans Specialties. With a hydraulic roller it went 11.70's, then I switched to a street mech. roller from Comp and it went 11.50's. I drove that car everywhere, put over 1000 1/4 passes plus about 2500 street miles a year on it. It was in my car for about 4 years and was very reliable. Your combo has a better suited head for the 306, you could easily see low to mid elevens if you are willing to turn the engine harder. Both cams I had would trap at 6800-7000 rpm and were shifted at 6500.
     
  9. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    ray-g161 Thanks for the info and most importantly the detail concerning your 306 combo. I'm making the power with a 108+ mph trap speed. My traction is fine with a tied frame, limited slip diff, Cal Tracks bars and MT drag radials. The issue with my Comet is low end grunt with the small 306 displacement, 2400 stall and 3:80 gears. The problem with my combination as you and others have pointed out, is converter stall speed and diff ratio. You have experience with these high stall converters and deep gears on the street. All I know is what I read. Most guys I run into at he track with high stall converters and low gears trailer their vehicles. I drive mine up to 2 1/2 hours on the highway to get to one of my local tracks. With my 27 inch tire height, rpm is 3,000 at 62 mph. I have no problem with an overheating transmission due to a slipping converter at that RPM and speed. I have to decide if I want to make the jump to a high stall converter, deep gears or both. Perhaps even an AOD transmission. I make it a practice to only change one thing at a time, then go to the track for testing. Again, thanks for the information.
     
  10. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    My chubby '88 T-Bird(3750Lb with me) would pull 1.90 short times and spraying 1.70(even numbers on times, never a 1.899 or 1.699)... That engine was a stock bore 5.0 with Trick Flow heads and Stage-1 cam, 1-5/8" headers, full 2.5" exhaust. FI with 24Lb inj etc... Trans is AOD with 2600 LOCKUP stall(no not enough), 3.73 gears Nitto drag radials, suspension absolutely stock... Best time on motor was 13.11@105 and 12.23@112 spraying a 75Hp shot...

    New combo will be a 331, with 1.7 rockers, larger throttle body & injectors(otherwise mostly same as above), fresh AOD with a 3500 lockup stall...

    Like you I drive it to the track, all over in fact... Took it to Carlise PA five times(625mi round trip), WV three times and western OH, almost to Indiana... Cruising at 65-70mph it never got less than 24mpg and has done 26 running 60-65...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2015
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  11. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    Damn, you've got to love an AOD!!! While racing, what do you have to do to shift that thing? I've heard there is some procedure you must follow.
     
  12. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    My old AOD has a modified valve body that I followed instructions in a early Lintech mod(before they made a business selling VB)... What it does is eliminate the std drive position(position 2) and only allows it to shift to 2nd, third position is still stock will shift through all gears into O/D but holds 3rd at WOT... No way to lock out O/D but with 3.73 gears I've never found it necessary, will scoot up the mountains of VA & WV with ease... After all this said, it's shifted same as a C4, otherwise you start in 1st, shift to drive, then pull back to 1st to hold 2nd, then shift back to drive once you're ready for 3rd(otherwise known as the AOD shuffle)... Shifting from 1st to drive and quickly back to 1st causes excessive wear on the clutches, if a couple second pause is used before pulling back to first no harm is done...

    My fresh AOD has a Lentech VB that has electric lock out for O/D...
     
  13. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    i agree with all said and recommended above but offer one other option. a swap to a stick shift. that was the best mod i ever did to my maverick. my first maverick was really similar to your current set up. it had a little less cam and cylinder head. same stall. i ended up swaping to a 5 speeed and life became fun. the car was a blast to drive on the street. a blast to drag race and picked up a few tenths in the process. i had to many changes between trips to the strip to make a fair comparison on times.
    with your combo i would go with a z spec t5 or a tremic tko. i run a aluminum flywheel and will never run a steel one again. they free up a good amount of power. you just raise your launch rpm to compensate for the lighter weight.
     
  14. greasemonkey

    greasemonkey Burnin corn

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    What kind of timing curve do you have in your distributor? Obviously the gear and converter are the biggest issues here but a lazy timing curve would make it worse. You might try some shorter tires also to help with the 60'.
     
  15. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    Bryant,

    I just looked at the thread concerning your 5 speed conversion. Unbelievable!!!!!!!!! I've wanted to do a 5 speed conversion many times and actually started to research it on a couple of occasions. I've just never had the guts to pull the trigger. Perhaps it is time.

    BTW, I followed your shop link and came up with a virus alert.
     

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