Im wanting to see what head and cam combos race weight transmission and gearing on real builds running NA not "it should with" I want to see I have ran 10s with.... thanks!!
It is easy to tell you what you need,but hopefully not like me,getting it is the problem.500hp/500ftlbs torque,good manual trans or high stall automatic,sub frame connectors,at least a 6 point roll bar,mini tubbed w/ a 9in rear & good traction bars(you pick).BB466 has 26in tall slicks w/ a 4.22 gear in his car w/ a 408ci,he was turning 10 flat.A 347 is a good mtr but you will have to put big dollars in it to do 10s reliably,turning 7000rpm you will need a 4.56 gear & 29 in tall slicks & you can do it.GOOD LUCK
IIRC, John Ford's maverick with a 347 was running mid to low 10's. I don't remember the specifics and it was probably 10 years ago. His screen name here is "Pinky".
My old 347 went 10.40's @ 3100lbs. Dart block, ARF 205's out of the box, 11:1 on 93 octane pump gas, Comp .691/.690 - 263/270 @.050 solid roller, Parker Funnel Web intake with 1" super sucker upside down, and a 975 cfm 4150. That was with a C4, 8" converter that stalled around 6K, 4.56 gear, and a 10X28 tire. I remember shifting around 7500.
Builds very similar to this ^^^ are also what I usually see every year. With engine control(EFI) and an OD trans.. it's quite easy to make these smaller CID's go faster than ever before and still actually drive them on the streets. I still often see many 302's and even 289's running high 10's without much money simply because they are setup right in lighter cars.
Getting a car down to 2800 lbs with driver in it is a huge help,every 100lbs removed is a.10 quicker in the qtr.
Hmmm, so if I got down to 180 lbs I'd go .10 quicker in the 1/4 mile. I'm not sure it's worth it. LOL
Mine runs 6.50/60's in the 1/8th mile. 347 with AFR 185 heads that have been touched up by a local guy. Nothing major, just smoothing out some areas. Comp Solid roller .614/.621. E-85 with a Quick Fuels Race 750 carb. I currently have a PG in the car, but ran those numbers with a C-4 and FTI converter. Hoosier 26x9 slicks, and 3.89 gears. I have a homemade set of CalTracs, factory leafs, and literally, some AutoZone replacement shocks. Car routinely 60 foots 1.41-1.42, with a best of 1.39. Weld-in subframe connectors, 10-point cage, around 2900 pounds for the car, and another 200 for me. Planning on trying some of the Calvert springs this year, and possibly some AFCO double adjustable shocks. People are telling me to try Calvert's shocks...but haven't made up my mind yet. Tossing around going with more gear as well, but haven't pulled the trigger on that yet either. I'll have to re-weigh the car this spring, as I finally broke down and put the RC-107 kit in the car at the end of last season, so that could have potentially changed. These are real world numbers...hope they help some. If you have any more questions, just ask.
Hey Maxx,that is a good combo you have,it works & goes to show people sometimes you do not have to have the most expensive parts to go fast.You`re rear tires are light taking less HP to pull them.I talked to Andy Walker w/ the gear jammers about that a couple of years ago,he only has 29in tall & 10 1/2 in slicks.With the over 700hp to his wheels I asked him why he did`nt go to 14 32s,the weight was why,as long as you can get the car to hook.
wow yea what compression and what RPM are you shifting at with the c4? tbrake or foot brake? what stall
Around 12.5:1 compression...which is why I run the E85. I was shifting around 6500 with the C4 and footbraking it. I now shift around 6800 with the PG...and switch between footbraking it and the transbrake. The car actually leaves harder off footbrake than it does with the transbrake. I have several upgrades in mind for future projects, including the aformentioned springs/shocks, and EFI. I'm picking up an Accufab throttlebody this weekend to put on the shelf for the EFI swap.
Yea Im deciding between AFR 185 and 205 the 185 are cheaper and would be easier but im just 10.8:1 compression 750 QFT 3000lbs car with me in it c4 footbrake 4000 4:11 rear gears 9in mickey et and caltracs. Im on the stock block im deciding what cam would be best also...right now I have pro comp heads and a b303 cam and ran a 7.94 @ 86 mph I know better heads and cam will help a lot I just want to do it right
I originally went with the 185's because they didn't have the raised ports, so headers etc would fit better in the original engine compartment. Plus, I had thought I'd drive it some on the street. Driving it on the street never played out lol. That's also why it had the 3.89 gears. I went with the 26" slicks to help that out, and it's worked out well. Now that I've gone to the M2-style front suspension, I may change that at some point. I run a Man O War block, so I've got a lot of room to go up in cubic inches if I want...and eventually...I'll want . When I get to that point, I'll go with bigger heads as well. Right now, the car is consistent, runs well, and I win my fair share of rounds and money with it. When the go faster bug really bites, I'll step it up. I'm curious to see if the front suspension change makes any difference this season. if not, I'd like to pick up about a tenth so I can run some 6.50 heads up races. It goes 6.5x's now...but I want to be able to do it reliably in the heat of summer, and have some wiggle room to back into some wins at the stripe. If it doesn't look like it's going to be there at the start of the season, I may go ahead and do a gear change to help get there.
Maxx,29in tall tires & 4.56s will get you there if you can make them fit.That 3in taller tire makes a HUGE diff. in speed at the end of the track.I`m sure you would probably have to make some chassis adjustments,but thats racing.
