first ive already used the search bar and havent seemed to answer my question. my 70 maverick seems to only do a cold start. if I try and start it again before waiting 15mins the starter will drag out and slow turns and my solenoid under my hood gets really hot. I went ahead and changed the starter i was 1 month past my 3yr warranty. but a friend at napa exchanged it anyway. so after putting on the new starter the issue didn't go away. (also replaced the battery) so I checked all my cables and my grounds. & double checked my timing, its spot on. so I'm thinking I need a gear reduction starter maybe?? but which one? I know very little on G.R starters... anyway my car has a 91 5.0 ho efi C4 pan fill trans and my battery is relocated to the trunk. if I do need a Gear reduction starter what one should I get?
It's the battery's location that's causing the drag. I went through this same scenario a few years back. And even though I used 5/8" diameter welding cable (and a 1/2" negative all the way back up front), there still was a loss of amps between the trunk and the solenoid. I moved the battery back up front and the problem disappeared. You don't have enough motor to need a gear reduction starter. Move the battery back front and try it again, you'll find it cranks just fine.
There is nothing special about your setup that would require a gear reduction starter. Have you always had this starting problem or is it something new associated with the repair/replacement of other components i.e.. engine installation, battery located to the trunk? Were multiple changes all made at the same time in relation to the starting issue? We need to know this information. Have you tried replacing the starter solenoid? That would be a relatively inexpensive test. If you still have the problem after replacing the solenoid, I would try eliminating as a test, the remote battery system by connecting the battery with short cables back to a relatively stock configuration. If that eliminates your problem you need to further diagnose your remote battery system.
the battery was relocated in the trunk in 09 when I did the efi conversion. theres no room for it under the hood because of the way the cold air is is ran. but I haven't had this issue before its been fine ever since 2009 since its been in the trunk. and the red cable is pretty thick as can see in the photo. this issue has only occurred over the last 3-4 months. I dont think it's the starter solenoid either but I might replace it for the hell of it just to see.
also what special setup do I require to need a gear reduction starter? because I'm going to be putting a bigger cam, torque converter and looking into other upgrades soon. so if I'll need it in the near future it might be good to have? I also have a 9inch with 3.89 gears if that matters.. idk how much torque I have, but from my lil knowledge in G.R starters, they're for setups that have lots of torque yes?
Well since it has worked for six years it still should now... I doubt it's the solenoid but couldn't hurt to repl it... If it still gets hot, somehow the starter is drawing too much current, can be aggravated by poor grounds(double check between engine and body), insufficient battery capacity, dragging starter(it's internals expand when hot)... I'd start by measuring battery voltage at battery, if falling well below 10v while cranking it's drawing excessive current do to a starter issue or battery capacity is low... Assuming OK next measure voltage into and exiting solenoid while cranking, if these readings are similar to battery voltage cable from batt is OK... If voltage is dropping more than a couple volts double check the crimp on ends and be sure the cable hasn't been damaged/cut... Finally check voltage on starter while cranking, high voltage drop is prob starter especially if battery voltage at solenoid is OK... If you are getting very little voltage drop at any of the test points, problem is a ground issue... BTW a factory PMGR starter does draw approx 1/3 less current than the ancient field magnet type, so would perform better, but as I mentioned prior it worked before so still should...
"but from my lil knowledge in G.R starters, they're for setups that have lots of torque yes?" G.R. starters are usually for setups that have lots of compression! Do as Krazy Comet suggests and check the engine to body ground.
I would do it, one of the best upgrades you can do is to go gear reduction. Weighs less, less amp draw, better header clearance and you'll have no problem cranking a 15 to 1 engine. Your engine was the last year for the big boat anchor type starter, the engineers at Ford know what there doing. After 91 all the engines come with a gear reduction starter stock. Here's a link to one I've been using for a while now http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-...arter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx
X 2 on this. That positive cable may have been OK when you put in in the car, but cables can and do corrode over time on the inside. Ditto for the terminals. What's the actual gauge of that wire ? And did you run a ground cable all the way back to the battery from the engine block ? Or are you relying on the unibody to transfer the ground current back to the battery ?
I have know dbelectrical for years. They did our starter, generator and alternator repairs on heavy equipment. Also did my repairs on my personal vehicles. Very good people and excelent to do business with.
[QUOTE=" Here's a link to one I've been using for a while now http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-...arter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx[/QUOTE] holy crap.. I'll think I'll buy its just because of that price... lol and youre correct that starter i have is an boat anchor lol
thanks! I have alot more better pictures now. I havent had a chance to uploadthem, aswell as the progress pics of the fuel cell conversion i did in January.. lol
