I've been lurking around the forums for quite a while and decided it was time to start a build thread for my current project. I had just completed a several-year build on a 63 Falcon which was built to look like a 60's/70's era short track stockcar. While it's a lot of fun, there are no creature comforts and, while it's street legal, it's not something I can easily just jump into an run to the corner store. I decided I wanted a daily driver that had power steering, A/C, a decent stereo, insulation...you get the picture. I thought a Maverick would be the perfect platform for this. I wanted a modern drivetrain, suspension and brakes. I put a Coyote 5.0 with a Tremec TKO 600 along with a Mustang II suspension in the falcon and have been extremely happy with that setup so that was the plan for the new project. I didn't find a Maverick but I did find a relatively rust free 71 Comet that had been sitting in the California desert since at least 1983.
The Falcon has a full tube chassis. I did not want to go to that extent on the Comet. I was hoping the Coyote would fit without significant frame modifications. The first step was to get rid of everything in the engine bay, get rid of the shock towers and install the Rod and Custom Mustang II front suspension. While the Rod and Custom kit is supposed to fit the Coyote, it comes with the engine mounts centered on the cross member. Those that have done a Coyote swap with a Mustang II front end will know that centering the engine in the engine bay will cause interference between the alternator and the upper control arm mount on the driver's side. Some relocate the alternator to the other side. But since I want power steering and A/C that was not an option for me. Therefore, as I did with the falcon, I offset the engine about three quarters of an inch to the right side of the car (and had a rear axle made to match this offset). This solves the alternator clearance problem and actually improves side to side weight distribution when my butt is in the driver's seat. In the photo below, I have already moved the passenger side engine mount over and modified the driver's side mount as well.
It was about at this point when I started second guessing my choice to use the stock chassis for this swap. There were several factors that made me decide to ditch that idea: This car had been center punched at some point in its life. It was not evident when I purchased the car (except the tight door gaps should have been a clue). The more I disassembled the car the more it was clear how bent things really were. There was even buckling in the kick panel area. I was amazed to find how flimsy these cars really are. I was looking at sub-frame connectors and a full cage to get the rigidity I wanted - and I didn't want a cage in this one. I was concerned about getting the car low enough using the stock chassis The frame rails interfered with the Coyote's factory headers There were other factors but I ultimately convinced myself that I needed to go with a tube chassis. So... I ordered some steel and began the process of designing and fabricating a frame. Below are the frame rails from the front of the car to just behind the front seats.
The Mustang II front cross-member, which I had fully welded to the stock chassis, had to be cut out and welded to my new frame rails.
The new frame rails were placed 26.5 inches apart - about the same as the stock front frame rails. These were connected to "outriggers" - two 2x3 steel tubes that were welded just inside the rocker panels.
I wanted a 3-link for the rear suspension. I've never been a fan of straight line racing and would rather have a car that handles well than one that launches well. Normally 3-links are difficult in these cars because of the back seat. My solution was not to have a back seat. This allowed me to have the upper link bar parallel to and at about 70% of the length of the lower trailing arms. Del Sphere rod ends were used on the link bars - they are supposed to be much quieter than heim joints. Just to make sure everything is solid in the back a four point roll bar was installed. I purchased a fully floating 9 inch rear axle housing from Schreiner Enterprises and bunch of mounting tabs. A panhard bar with adjustable mount will hold everything in place.
With the engine back in, there is plenty of clearance between the alternator and factory header and the frame rail.
I wanted the car to sit low so there was no room to have anything hanging below the frame including the exhaust. I used 2.5 inch mandrel bent tube to fabricate the exhaust. from the headers the tubes hug the transmission and run down the tunnel under the drive shaft to just behind the front seats where they split, go over the rear axle and both exit the driver's side (for panhard bar clearance).
For wheels and tires I picked up some 26 x 12.00 - 15 Mickey Thompson Sportsman SR radials and some Centerline 15 x 8 split spoke wheels. The tire is equivalent to a 305 width and would not fit in the stock fender wells. Aside from adding tubs in the back, I radiused all four wheel openings at the natural body line and finished off the edges with some 3/16" brake line tubing. After checking full up and down travel and lock to lock turning of the front wheels, I had to further flare the front fenders. In the end I got the stance I was looking for (the last two shots were taken before flaring the front fenders).
I think "handful" is an appropriate description. Actually it's pretty well behaved - Just not very comfortable. If you're interested, following is a link to a build thread for that car. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/63-falcon-build-thread-stockcar-for-the-street.781356/
