That's probably the direction I'm heading...just changing one thing at a time Rear springs and coilovers are the first things on the list...then see where that gets me. I'll just be glad when it's warm enough to even think about the season lol.
I Think I am going to go with AFR 185 sense they are so efficient and are street able with an n91 cam from Anderson I believe with good tune ill be 400+hp 400tq to the wheels which will be prolly low 11s 1/4 low 7s 1/8 since its stock block and I don't want to destroy the block lol
My car runs 7 Teens in the 1/8 and 11.50's in the 1/4. I need better heads and more gear i think. But, if I had the cash to build another 347, I'd go 4.125 big bore and afr heads.
Yes it is! I had that cam in a 331 motor in my '85 GT. I ran ported Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Parker Funnel Web with an 850 Holley. The car had a TKO 500 5 speed and 4.56 gears and I ran on a 27x10.5 Hoosier Quick Time tire. It ran 11.20's at 122 MPH and it was very streetable with the overdrive trans.
google Quarterhorse 2. He is all over youtube. Its a 331 like mine. Actually mine is like his, . Runs like 9.84 n/a
10.30's: stock '76 302 block, 347", 11:1 comp, Windsor Sr. alum heads, Kuntz & Co. custom solid roller, Victor Jr and 750 DP, Carter mechanical fuel pump. JPT C4 w/8" 5,000 stall conv (no transbrake), 4.56 gear and 26 x 10 Hoosiers. 2900 lb Fox Mustang
I don't mean to sound condescending here or rain on the OP's question. But I don't see what the big need for secret recipe is. In a lighter car with capable traction.. it only takes a little bit more than 400 wheel horsepower to run well into the 10's. Very basic off-shelf parts can easily do 500 FWHP on a 347 CID motor if you spin it a bit higher and let it breathe. The bigger problem I see all my life is that guys don't have all the necessary matching components, transmission, rear gear, poorly designed or adjusted suspension setups, tire, etc. Then they are forced to throw bigger top end power to make up for the lack of tractability and it confuses many into thinking that it's harder than it really is. Plenty of massaged OEM iron headed 289's and 302's running these numbers with basic hotrodding tricks and well sorted combo's in lighter cars. Best money spent on these front heavy cars is to get the power to stick and most are simply amazed at how much ET can be picked up on the first half of the run even in lower powered/sub-400 horse setups.
So true Robert,I remember when back in the day going to Rockingham NC every yr,there was a guy that came to those races everytime(pretty sure he was following the circuit).He had a 1968 Mercury Cyclone w/ an automatic trans,bone stock 428SCJ,slapper traction bars & I`m not sure of his gear ratio,& full interior.He was racing in the stock class which during those years might have 2 or 3 hundred cars to show up for that race,car went 11.80s all day long even in 100 degree weather.I saw him get to the semi finals more than once,which is difficult to do w/ that many cars there.CAN YOU IMAGINE,what that car would do now w/ todays technology,cal-tracs,better trans & tires,not to mention newer eng components,10s ALL DAY LONG,we are talking 1980s here.
This gives me hope. I am doing a 347 with 185 afr's. I was going to go with the N71 cam. Still undecided on going with a vicjr or rpm intake though. Already have a 9" with 3.75 gears. Yes I know I need lower gears. Most likely i will use a built c4 with whatever the best stall is for the combo. How much better is the n91 than the n71?
If by "better" you mean.. "how much more power"?.. I would guess in the neighborhood of about 25 horsepower and a fair bit higher torque peak. Smaller would be peaked in the lower 6,000 rpm range.. bigger would be just past 6,500 rpm. The 185's would be great with the smaller cam and current gear... and 205's would be better suited for the larger cam and shorter gear. It's all about the combo.
Ok, I'll stick the the 71 that I have been wanting anyways. I guess I might need notrous to get me into the 10's
that "71" cam would be damned good with those heads, big dual plane, and current gear. should put you right around 370 horses with the dual plane and slightly more with a single plane. smaller 100/125 shot would easily put you into solid 10's. or.. you could still run the 185's, go one step up from the 91 cam(or similar solid roller grind), super victor(or similar), 4.30+ rear gear, spin it up to around 7,400 for peak power and be close to 10's in NA fashion too. Hardly as streetable as the smaller cammed dual plane combo though. OD trans would also be in order to regain any sense of civility in high gear on the highway.
I can always swap the intake and the cam later I guess. I think I will appreciate the drivability. I've never been much of a nitrous person though
