Instrument Panel lights in Generation 4 Ford Taurus (2000-2006)

Discussion in 'Other Automotive Tech & Talk' started by Maverick Dude, Jun 25, 2015.

  1. Maverick Dude

    Maverick Dude Member

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    I suspect some Maverick owners may also be Taurus owners or at lease have friends with a Taurus. My lights in my 2000 Ford Taurus burned out, one after another over the course of a few years. The car is now 15 years old and had a pitch black instrument panel at night. The mileage is about 140,000 miles. The car still runs great so it was worth it to change the light bulbs.

    I'd recommend disconnecting the battery at the negative side to protect the electronics. Also, make sure the car is level and blocked and the E brake is engaged. Please note the author is not responsible for any errors, misinterpretations, or equipment issues. Consult a professional if you are unclear or uncomfortable with the procedures. Thanks.

    You might want to check U tube for some video instructions but the following helps to organize the operation.

    Tools:
    Plastic pry tool (or flat blade screwdriver)
    Phillips screwdriver
    7 mm and 8 mm drive sockets with extension and ratchet
    Torx screwdriver (not sure what the size was so have a selection.)

    There are 5- Type 194 bulbs to replace but to get there you have to remove 15 screws and remove two panels and loosen one other (in addition to pulling the light panel itself). I'd recommend you start by getting yourself 6 zip-lock bags and label them with some of that green painters tape that you can write on. Sorry for the long winded description. It's really not that hard!

    The first two screws use an 8 mm socket. They are positioned at the very bottom of the dash near your knees in front of the drivers seat. Undo them, toss them in bag #1. Next, tug down on the panel to release it from its clips and put the panel aside.

    Next use a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the two screws just above the instrument panel under the upper lip of the dashboard. Toss the screws in bag #2.

    Next use two Ford Radio removing gizmos to remove the radio. They look like two pieces of wire bent into a U shape. I recommend you buy these from a auto supply store for about $5.00. While pushing the removing tools into the 4 holes in the radio/HV assembly, push the two sets of removing tools AWAY from each other (to the left and right). The radio will slide out as you pull while also pushing the tools left and right. Pull the radio out of the trim but you don't have to disconnect it from the electrical connectors.

    With the radio out, you will see the trim piece with four screws, three at the top and one at the lower left. Use a 7 mm socket, unscrew them and toss them into bag #3.

    Pull the trim away from the dashboard and look in the area between the steering column and the radio. There is one screw that can be removed with a 7 mm socket. Toss it in bag #4.

    Now, go to the area left of the steering wheel and using a plastic straight edge tool (you can buy a kit for about $10.00 containing plastic tools to pop out dashboard assemblies), use the tool to pop out the headlight switch assembly that turns the lights on. Disconnect the two electrical connectors and put the headlight switch assembly aside.

    Now, taking the plastic dashboard tool, pry on the dash assembly that surrounds the instrument panel. This dash assembly is quite wide going from the left side of the dash, all the way to the AC vents on the right side of the car. It should pop loose easily so if it is stiff, make sure all the screws are unscrewed. You will have to maneuver the assembly and move the column mounted gear shifter down to first gear. Basically to need to manipulate the dash assembly down and to the right to get it totally removed. (The panel is amazingly flexible to don't be afraid to bend it a bit). You might want to put a piece of paper over top the steering column to keep it from getting scratched.

    Once you get it free, have a break to calm down from all the swearing.

    When you come back and the panel is removed, you will clearly see the instrument panel. The brass colored screws hole the plastic cover to the main body and do not need to be removed. There will be four screws (one at each corner) that need to removed. They use an appropriate sized torx screwdriver. Undo the four screws and toss them into bag # 5.

    The instrument panel will be much looser but now you need to unscrew the two screws that hold the gear position indicator. The indicator has PRNDD1. It is fairly delicate. Undo the two screws and toss them into bag #6. The gear position indicator will slide out below the instrument panel but stays where it is while you remove the instrument panel.

    To remove the instrument panel, carefully tilt the panel so you can reach the two electrical connectors in the back. Squeeze the connectors and pull them out. You should not require any tools to do this.

    Carefully pull the panel out, then play theme song to "Rocky" on your Ipod.

    Place the panel down on a soft cloth so you don't scratch the plastic cover. There will be 5 black plastic bulb holders and about a dozen diode holders for the trouble lights. I suspect these diodes don't burn out so if your trouble lights are OK, leave them alone. Take a pair of pliers and unscrew each bulb holder slightly to the left to release it from the panel. Pull the bulb out and replace it with a new 194 bulb. Insert and turn the bulb holder to the right using your hand. You should feel a slight click as it engages. Replace all 5 bulbs (unless you want to do this whole procedure again for the rest of the bulbs!)

    Take some time to clean the front plastic cover. Careful as it is very easy to scratch. Inspect the connectors to make sure there is no damage.

    Reassembly:

    Place the instrument panel into position. Turn it enough to engage the electrical connectors. Is impossible to mix them up as they differ from one another.

    Look carefully at the bottom of the instrument panel so you understand how the gear indicator assembly slides into position. Notice it is sandwiched between two tabs of the panel. Position the instrument panel over top the gear indicator and line up the screw holes. Take the screws from bag #6 and insert and tighten them with the torx screw driver. Position the instrument panel on its locating buttons. Take the screws from bag #5 and insert and tighten them with the torx screw driver.

    Replace top dash assembly. Once again you have to come in from the lower right and maneuver it into position while moving the column shifter between Park and First. Once it is in place, it should snap into place easily. Note: This should all work easier if you have a floor mounted shifter.

    Take the light assembly, connect the electrical connectors and then pop the light switch assembly into place.

    Take the single screw from bag # 4 and insert and tighten it. Push the trim piece of the radio into position and insert the four screw from bag #3 and tighten. Check that the panels seem to be in position. Take the radio (without the removal tools) and push it into position. It will make a click when it engages.

    Take the screws from bag #2 and use Philips screwdriver to screw them into the dash panel above the instrument panel.

    Take the crews screws from bag #1 and attach the lower panel in front of the drivers seat.

    There should not be any screws left.

    You are done. Use adequate protection and connect the battery.
     
  2. Rasit

    Rasit Member

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    Wow, glad I don't have a Taurus...
     
    Krazy Comet likes this.
  3. Maverick Dude

    Maverick Dude Member

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    Editors note: the Torx screwdriver I used was a T-15.

    M.D.
     

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