How hot should engine be allowed to get? Electric Fan Install

Hmmm, That's interesting info, Jeff. I've never once seen an old Ford with a 160° t-stat from the factory. In fact, even when I was in Texas and Cali, the parts guys always tried to sell me "factory spec'd 192's or 195's" and looked at me like I was silly to want a 160° t-stat. Many of them even had to special order them because they didn't stock them.

 

I think the 195s were 5.0 EFI T-stats.

 

You could always ask for a chevy thermostat.
Have you ever heard of testing a T'stat like this?

 

that would be expecting some tight quality standards...
I put them in boiling water and am only looking for them to open...

 

Old wives tale, as soon as o2 sensors are hot enough to produce voltage and engine temp is around 100*F, it'll go to closed loop... Yes it'll be slightly richer than at normal operating temp but no where near start mode...The logic is all about getting lowest emissions and best fuel economy...

The first 195 t-stat I ever saw was in a '65 289 I tore down, that was 1969... Stuck it in my '64 Galaxie 289 trying for more heat, worked very well... Left it installed till I swapped in a 390 that gave plenty of heat with a 180*...

 

The test description is from the 1959 Ford Shop Manual when parts were made and assembled in the USA...not made over seas and put together by a little boy standing on a box to reach the buttons on the machine.

 

With the typical "universally interchangeable parts" being made these days I don't think it matters too much anymore. I couldn't care less what it was originally designed for so long as it physically fits and does the job correctly within its design parameters. I love using Chevy valves in all my Fords. lol

And no, never heard of that one before but I did know a guy who told me that the testing is more accurate if you first slip a saucer into the preheated water and then plop the t-stat on top of that. Seems like a similar concept in that all you're trying to do is keep the element off the hottest bottom section of the pan to eliminate false tests. I don;t get too fancy about such a simple test and just use a coathanger or hooked scribe out of the toolchest. Welding filler rods work easy enough too. Whatever's handy at the time to keep the element off the hotter bottom of the pan.

Like Frank said, you'd probably need to go through a few to find that perfect gem if you're really that critical of those last few degrees of dial in. Course, there was a time when "quality control" and "American made" actually meant something in this country. Now they simply use those same phrases as advertising slogans primarily to instill greater confidence so they can sell us more offshore parts. The better terminology to use these days would be "random batch test" and "30% assembled in America from offshore parts".

Pretty sad state of affairs really and you're almost better to design something yourself or retask parts intended for another application if they'll work. Iv'e been retrained to take micrometers and sliding calipers with me to the parts and hardware store after seeing some or the remanufactured junk they're trying to pass of as replacement parts.

 

160 180 190 they have all worked for me with a good radiator and water pump with no sludge in the system and the correct antifreeze mix I like to use the thermostats that if they stick they stick open and use a shroud and a six blade fan I've never ran an electric fan other than on my new thingamabob's(2007 Fusion -2005 Aveo)

 

I'd be willing to bet anything that had a hot air setup for intake or a smog pump had a 195* stat... By late 60s carb primaries were being leaned out and the heat made for better drivability... My 428 was still orig with smog pump when I got it, had a 195 from factory...

 

My '71 SCJ Torino had a 195° as well. You could very easily cook your dinner on that big cast-iron dual plane manifold.

Right after I got it one of my very first mod's was to install a 180° t-stat along with a custom made cleanable filter element similar to a K&N setup that was 3/8" taller than stock to still squeeze in under the shaker scoops top. Rejetted the Holley a bit richer than stock and it picked up EVERYWHERE.

 

I got this all figured out. I ordered a 180 degree thermostat and a two speed fan controller, stage 1 comes on at 195 and stage 2 at 210. 3G alternator swap is finished too, I think 130 amps will support this.

 

Sounds good to Me.

 

didn't all these motors have a belt driven fan ( on all the time the motor is turning)...

 

I would think so.

 

If it was a stock Maverick...then yes and no. The fan will be turning only if the engine was running. If you turn the key off the fan will stop turning unless the engine was dieseling or had some sort of electrical problem feeding electricity to the ignition system when it shouldn't.