OK I drove my car home for the first time after putting in the aod and I noticed it always has late shifts it's late up shifting and also down shifting I think I may need a better TV cable or bracket but want everyone's suggestions. I have 4r70w internals and the epoxy mod on the valve body
If cable is misadjusted & causing late upshifts, then it should cause early down shift... Sounds more like a sticking valve or maybe governor...
I drove it this morning to work when It was cold I had to drive it about a half block before it would shift out of 1st after that it shifted pretty good only complaint was a couple of times it didn't seem to shift up or down exactly when I thought it should on the highway at very light throttle. It seems to me if the only thing controlling the transmission is the TV cable and governor then the transmission should make an up shift any time I'm over 40-45 mph and foot off gas. but a lot of times I got to wait a few seconds before it shifts. same goes for if I'm in o/d and put my foot down it chuggs for a second before shifting down to 3rd or 2nd.
That's likely a sticking shift valve in the valve body, may fix it's self after a week or two... I have one stashed around here a friend rebuilt that did same(was in a T-Bird I bought from a 3rd party and wound up parting it out)... That trans was OK for 15K mi or so, started the late up/unwilling down shift after it sat around here a couple months... I have a valve body with epoxy mod & Trans-Go shift kit I'll stick in it if I need to use it...
I've been looking at the trans go shift kit for some time but it wasn't in my budget when I was putting the transmission together. Guess I just need to buy one and do it right.
Word of advice, unless you want to upshift into O/D at WOT, don't use the Trans-Go 3 to 4 shift valve... With the epoxy mod that eliminates 3rd in the normal drive position, there was no way to keep from shifting to O/D when I was racing the T-Bird... I've heard a good bit about issues after install of Trans-Go but if the instructions are followed to the letter, there won't be any problems... Myself and a couple friends all have used the kit with zero issues... I also installed the hi rev kit in governor as well... The kit in one mentioned earlier is supposed to be a Fairbanks, I've never verified that...
I can't say that I know much about the mod's you guys are talking about here.. but I will say that I would take a Superior Fairbanks part.. any part really.. over any trans-go part 10 to 1 hands down. It's not completely unlikely that some of their packaged parts are using Superiors stuff anyways. Those guys are always R&D'ing thier parts with state of the art shift correction packages for even the newest transmissions and the steel valves they sell will fix many many issues related to those stoopid aluminum valves that are known to wear, rock, and stick in the bores. Which very well could be the issue with this one from the sounds of it. Sonnax, Alto, Superior all make parts that are top notch and the more you can afford to stuff in there the better the result and lifespan will be.
Certainly sounds like an aluminum valve sticking like you said. It seems to be getting better as I drive it. I'm going to take it easy till I get the upgraded boost valve and shift kit, and hopefully the upgraded O/D servo, and also find a better bracket for the TV cable.
One other BTW... With the Trans-Go kit, trans won't slip if TV cable is disconnected, shifts will be very early but won't slip... What I don't know is if the continual pressure contributed to the worn crank & thrust bearing in the engine... I'd blasted it with a lot of juice, up to 150hp shots so that may have been at least part of problem...
Tom makes a good point about those constant pressure valve bodies saving your arse when you don't get the adjustments right but I can't see that leading to extreme thrust failures as he describes. Me thinks he enjoyed that happy gas just a bit too often for just a bit too long, is all. lol Here's a few links for you to see all the myriad of problem solvers available for your trans. The fact that the major companies involved with the R&D of these products have spent the resources to find solutions should help point out potential issues that may be lingering around the corners further on down the road. I've used many of these similar updates and fixes on the GM stuff and can say without a doubt that they are cheap insurance in the long run.. especially if you like to run your stuff harder than most. Don't have to buy from them.. just a nice website that gives some overview as to each individual transmission designs inherent flaws. Tough to avoid issues if you don't know what issues may exists to bite you in the keester later on. And FYI.. many of the kits you can buy are using these same parts on reboxed kit form. I personally like to know exactly what I'm getting and typically build my own "kits". Costs a bit more but much more predictable. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/aod.htm http://www.superior-transmission.com/2010.catalog/SUPERIORcatalog08.pdf http://www.sonnax.com/categories/3-Transmission PS. keep in mind that the auto trans is a big series of controlled leaks and pressure differentials to control everything and keep it where and when it needs to be at any particular time. With that in mind I ALWAYS use o-ringed end plugs and updated parts even when there are no known issues with the current state of parts fitment within the valve body. Similar to running gapless piston rings in an engine.. things feel and stay feeling new and fresh for much longer periods of time as a result of keeping leaks mitigated before they can ever start causing issues.
