Idler arm question

Ok ok ok. I am a dope. As a couple of you guys had said the centre link one is a PITA as Krazy Comet rightly said. Because I am obviously blind, the metal sleeve is still in there the little fkr. Scratched some dirt away and saw that I didn't have an unusual end to my centre link rather a sleeve still stuck in there.
So if I can believe what Rock have sold me and what Krazy Comet said earlier I can get this rebuilt using the bushes I have chosen?????? Apologies for being thick. First foray into steering reco.

 

The 8103 is for the Center link, the metal sleeve that is still in your center link must be pressed out and replaced with the new 8103 sleeve/rubber bushing/center sleeve all as one unit. Any good alignment shop/tire shop should beable to perform this task for you. Obviously, it would involve removing the center link to take it to a shop. It is possible to install while still in the car........need 2 - 1 5/16" sockets, large 8" C-clamp, hacksaw........

1). make note, take pictures of position of existing metal sleeve in center link.
2). carefully use hacksaw and cutout sleeve, length wise.
3). line up bushing with center line, 1 5/16 socket position on top of bushing (lip), it will fit over exposed
rubber nicely and onto metal lip.
4). using C-clamp over socket/bushing/bottom of center link, you may want to use a heavy metal
plate between the bottom and clamp, so not to damage center link and provide larger contact
area/support.
5). with a little lube around the center link bore, carefully screw down the clamp and draw the
new bushing/sleeve into the bore. double check to make sure it is going in square, the lower
3/8-1/2" part of the bushing is slightly tapered to help guide it into the bore, take your time.
You probably will need a wrench as leverage to turn the clamp's screw.
6). as it gets closer to the bottom of the center link, you will have to use the 2nd 1 5/16" socket
between the bottom and clamp in order for the bushing/sleeve to be drawn past the bottom of
the link, just like it is now.

Since you have the metal sleeve out of your Idler arm already, you could always try installing it yourself via same procedure above, you would have to figure out what size sockets to use for that application as the 1 5/16" maybe too big. Also, those heavy duty woodworking bar clamps, with the 1" pipe would work good too, maybe better than the C clamp, would have to shorten the pipe if going to try on the center link while still in car.........

Best to take it into a shop to have pressed in, but it can be done if you have the right tools and patience.

In regards to your Idler Arm, it is that MOOG K-8094 part and should be pressed into the idler arm body the same as the center link. Usually a new MOOG replacement (K-8199) idler would be in order as it is a much better design and would last longer than that rubber bushing/sleeve, but if it is not a daily driver, it should last a longtime, hey it lasted 40 plus years!
David

details below on how 8103 is made and why it has to be installed as a complete unit, removing the rubber bushing would destory it........




#energyEfficiency .a-icon-popover { DISPLAY: none }
Moog K8103 Front Radius Bushing
List Price: $23.36
Price: $9.86 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35. Details
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Only 12 left in stock (more on the way).
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.

• Bushings are manufactured from high quality elastomer compounds for durability and ride performance.
• Assembled with the proper precompression to provide the ultimate in performance and feel.
• High level bonding adhesive is used for durability.
• Elastomer compounds do not utilize any reground rubber fillers.

› See more product details

 

Thanks for the detailed reply mate. I will on this this afternoon and I will take a bag full of expletives to help me through. I'm going to do my best without taking the link off to save money and hassle of perhaps braking something else and or replacing things that don't need attention as yet. I appreciate you taking the time to clarify it. I nearly had kittens last night thinking I'd wasted money and time on the parts. Thanks mate.

 

Keep us posted on how it goes for you, pics etc.......
Cheers,
David

 

Need I say anything more? Was a bit of a pain because I left the link on and had no sockets. Alot of cutting across the top, squeezing with vice grips and a few bashes downward with a chisel and out she came. Can't wait to put the new one in.....not! Thanks for your instruction David. Much appreciated.

 

Great to hear you got it out! Did you try installing the K-8094 onto your idler arm yet?? Hope the rest of the installation goes much more smoothly!
David

 

No not yet. Awaiting its arrival later this month. Let you know. Cheers.