I am more confused now. I tried changing to non HO firing order and car would not even start. The really odd thing is pulled off MAP while car was running and I could not tell a difference, then I reconnected it and pulled off FPR and no difference either. There was vacuum on both but seemed less than normal IMO. Then I thought what if I create a massive vacuum leak, I pulled of brake booster and MAP and car started to idle still very poor though.
There should be a major difference in idle quality with vac removed from MAP... Vac on/off fuel pressure regulator won't make but a small difference at idle... That injector appears white/lt grey which are the Lo-Po 14Lb units... What reach spark plugs does it have?? Lo-Po with E6 heads use the 3/4" reach plugs, HO plugs except for 1986 have 1/2" of threads... Can you get to ECM for the code??? BTW have you listened for a click on each injector??? It's common for them to stick shut if they've set up for some period of time... A silent injector is stuck, has coil open or not getting a drive signal...
I looked at injectors up close and they appear to be black on bottom and tan up top. I have not listened for injector click but I could do that tomorrow (Wednesday). Plugs I am running: http://www.autozone.com/external-en...inders-e-5-0l-fi-hp/105833_0_0/?checkfit=true
Your plugs and ECM are HO, that injector looks nothing like a HO unit... Still should idle OK but be lean at WOT... Since it won't start on the std firing order, I suspect it has some stuck injectors...
Will check injectors tomorrow, I have a stethoscope. Could they just be aftermarket injectors (OEM equivalent)?
"Cleaned up several grounds in engine bay." was one of them from engine to frame? does the fuel pump have a grounding strap?
I have cleaned the engine since I owned but I will check it tonight. The fuel pump only has 2 terminals and is covered in rubber isolator.
The one in pict looks like a Ford OEM Bosch injector... Seen lots of them in Lo-Po T-Bird, Grand Marquis, etc.. 19Lb HO inj are orange... http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=M9593C302+01
I tried listening to the injectors but couldn't make out their click from other engine noise. Here is a video if it running, at start of video wife is giving car a little gas to keep it running then she lets of completely.
A video rarely helps, usually so many noises it's impossible to determine where any of it originates.. You can try pulling plug wires to see if there are "dead" misses on any cylinders, or better, use a temp gun to measure heat in each header tube at head... Dead cylinders will be probably 100-150* cooler than one firing... Since it has good compression and fresh ignition components, dead cylinders are almost 100% going to be injector or maybe ecm issue... A penny or similar placed under throttle stop to increase idle should keep it runing... I'll add this, if the MAP makes no difference without vacuum or electrically unplugged, something serious is goin' on(maybe just a bad MAP)... In my experience, I've yet to see a MAP issue that didn't cause a pig rich issue under above conditions... On a car with catalytic converter(s), they'll cherry in about 15 seconds due to extra fuel being dumped into them... Seen the pavement under car glow more than once from cherried converters when MAP lost vacuum... Of course since it apparently has wrong injectors, the MAP point may be moot...
I did check with thermometer on headers. I might have to double check but I believe all where around 150-180 degrees except for 6 and 7 which were around 300 degrees after a few minutes if running. I swapped the map from my truck (they use the same one) and made no difference, I did verify there is 5v going to MAP. Car is smoking really bad and really burns eyes after a few min.
Well we're back to it being excessively rich... That's generally MAP, fuel pressure or maybe ruptured F/P regulator diaphragm... There is a possibility it has a injector hung open... Good firing cylinders near correct A/F ratio are going to be at least 300, maybe 400F... BTW having to hold throttle at WOT indicates a over fuel condition, WOT shuts down injectors to be able to start a flooded engine... Wonder if this engine has a std firing order cam??? Won't be happy with HO ECM, plus we have this mismatched injector thing going...
"I have had it running well several times over past few months." could be fouled plugs from earlier old gas...
So I was able to get car to idle by putting 15" of vacuum on the MAP sensor, it was still running poor though. I also discovered that #4 was dead, I could hold the header while car was running and did not get past 90 degrees. I tried swapping to old firing order again and I was able to get car to run on it and it seemed slightly smoother. I pulled the plugs and did a compression test (mostly cold engine) and got: 1 - 139 2 - 130 3 - 135 4 - 155 5 - 140 6 - 140 7 - 139 8 - 0
