The Green Monster

I am very happy with what we found when we got the intake off:


Very clean. Nice!

Now to put some un-needed stuff on Craigslist...




What is a fair price for these parts?
upper and lower intake, throttle body, fuel rail and all 8 injectors, both coil packs, mounting bracket and 7 good plug wires, EGR valve and tube... $100 for all of it together?

 

We got the short block back from the shop. The tops of the cylinder walls were mushroomed out just enough to need a .030 bore.

302 x 1.030 = 311.06 cubic inches now.

Here's a good shot of the new .030 flat top pistons.


Poppa Randy wasted no time getting the block cleaned and painted Ford Engine Blue.



We forgot to tell the machine shop to leave it bare metal, and Dad had to strip off a coat of black.

It looks great now!



Cylinder heads came in just a week after we dropped them off. Good turn around time for a busy shop.



Everybody, everywhere says stock GT40P springs are the worst thing about great factory heads...we listened.


And here they are installed in the head getting ready for paint.



I need to find a swap meet somewhere close to me. I have Ford parts up to my eyeballs!







I started with this as a parts donor car...


And today when I left Dad's house, it looked like this...



The carcass goes under the flame Sunday morning.

Come get your Maverick parts.

 

This is how it looked on its way to the metal recycle yard:


$12 worth of scrap metal in my truck and
$13 in my dad's truck

and on to the next step

The used Edelbrock Performer intake we ordered from eBay came in and we got it installed after cleaning it up some.


Body work done on chin and stone deflector and ready for paint:



And now we get to put some stuff back together...


It's starting to look like a car again:


I love it when the brown truck shows up...65,000 volts should do nicely!

We got it installed right away:


I can't wait for the valve covers to get here, it's going to look great once all of the shiny bits are assembled.


I'm hoping to score this set of 17x7 Mustang rims for $150 from craigslist tomorrow. They come with a good set of tires:


Tires are 225/50-17 About 26"tall
I think I'm going to need 1" spacers.

 

Not how you figure displacement...

Formula is bore x bore x stroke x .7854 x 8... Or 4.030 x 4.030 x 3.00 x .7854 x 8 which equals 306.13446... Pretty much common knowledge a .030 over 302 is a 306... It'd have to be bored .060 to make a 311...Actually that'd be 310.70926....

 

I bought a 74 2dr Comet that had the 6 swapped out for a 71 302, but was never finished, and there is no transmission or drive shaft. Can you tell me how long the v-8 drive shaft is? I see one on CL but dont want to buy a four door shaft! I plan on finding a C4 if that matters.

 

I don't know the length of the drive shaft needed. There is a big difference between the 2 I have, I have a smaller one from my 70 2 door 200 without air and a bigger one from a 75 4 door 250 with a/c. The drive shaft for a V8 may be the same as the drive shaft for a 250 with a/c:
the 250 with A/C shaft is on top in both pics.




We are going to install an AOD trans, and will need a custom length shaft so we will take our 250 4 door drive shaft to a shop and have it cut to the length we need and balanced.
You will need a v8 specific transmission cross member.
Our AOD install requires a special trans mount

 

Wheel base dictates length, not engine size...

AOD is same length as C4 but requires a modified rear mount/crossmember...

 

WRONG.
AOD is 2 inches longer.

 

Must be a awful short 2", look same in your pict...

 

Here's some recent pics I just got off my phone:

My new (used) intake all cleaned up and installed.


the new front sump oil pickup:

And then the chrome begins!:


Next for the motor: valve covers, timing cover and carburetor...

 

Make sure you scuff up the mating surface on the pan rail so the gasket stays put and seals.Chrome pans are noted for leaking as well as holding heat in the oil/engine...

Have you figured out what your going to do about headers for the P heads??? Spark plug angle tends to cause fitment issues...Especially in a Mav...

 

Thanks for the tip on the pan gasket. We don't have the timing cover yet, so the oil pan is only held in place with 4 bolts for the pictures. I wonder if that is why my son's 65 Falcon valve cover gasket started leaking less than 1000 miles after the motor was built. It had a recurring seep over #5 cyl on driver's side.


As for exhaust, I have only done preliminary research on what I will need, but my Dad has found some info about GT40P specific headers from BBK and someone else, maybe Headman, I'm not sure yet.

It's one of about 300 things I haven't gotten around to yet, but progress is made every week.

 

I got my rims today!!!
17x7 from 06 Mustang GT
here's my first mock up:

I think I'll need 1/2" spacer in the front and 1" spacers in the back.
I can't wait to see it on the ground with some weight on the springs.
I saved the 1970 200/2 door light duty springs in case it rides up in the air too much with the heavy springs from the 75 250/4 door.

Enough tread left to ride around a little on dry days. The 14's on steelies from the 75 donor car are maypops with threads hanging out of 2 tires.

Now, how do I get the Mustang center button out of the center cap, and where do I find center buttons with Maverick longhorn emblems like on the front door skin on the 75 I took apart?

you can see the emblem I'm talking about on the passenger side door skin in this pic:


I only have this one. Did Ford or any aftermarket supplier ever make wheel center caps with that Maverick logo? Or am I going to have to make them?

Valve covers came in on Friday and look great!

 

Removing the emblem will rip the Masonite door panel backing, so hopefully you don't care about that.
You will then have to grind off the mounts on the back of the emblem.

 

I don't want to tear up old Maverick stuff that can't be replaced easily.
I'll just look for a Ford blue oval center button.