I've had the clicking problem from the selenoid. When you try and start it in the dark with the hood open do you see any sparks at the selenoid? Mine was not grounded properly. Check the grounding where the selenoid attaches to the body and make sure the connection is clean and tight (I switched to bolts instead of screws to make it tighter and removed the paint directly behind the mount - followed by dielectric grease) Also check the ground strap to the battery - I've had the non battery end corrode and cause problems too. If one of these is the problem, idk if that's something that can kill a new selenoid or not (maybe someone can chime in if you should try a new one after checking on these things) You can jump the selenoid (bypass it) and see if the starter turns. If it does, then you likely have a selenoid issue.
Frank, Could you expand on this? Pretty sure I just have a ground strap going from the neg term on the battery to my cylinder head, and then another one on the other side of the engine going to... maybe the fender apron (can't remember)
The factory hookup was a lug crimped and solders in mid portion of cable that bolted to inner fender(in area of voltage regulator), also a second lug on engine end bolted to block... Older configurations generally used a ground cable from block to chassis, this was in addition to the negative cable that bolts to block... It's probably the best system but the factory '70s design was cheaper as it only requires one cable... Problem is generally when Joe Fixit replaced the negative cable, there was no longer a ground to chassis...
it's just an extra ground strap to make sure the starter is grounded. the motor and transmission is rubber mounted so it's the shortest to ground when you hit the starter. here's a pic of it hanging from the frame when I pulled the starter.
All good recommendations except for one thing. Dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor of electricity. This is a common misconception. How did I first notice? I installed one of those battery isolators where you screw in a knob with a brass plated screw to complete the circuit and unscrew it to kill the circuit. I thought I'd make things better by applying dielectric grease to the screw. Sure enough the battery wouldn't charge. Got on the internet and reasearched it. Dielectric grease is an insulator MD
Dude! That is some AWESOME info! You naturally assume it's a conductor because it's sold to be put on battery terminals. I ran ragged for a bit trying to solve my grounding issue a while back and was probably shooting myself in the foot alittle. Any recommendations on what to use instead to keep the bare metal behind the selenoid from corroding?
A little dab of anti-seize compound between the solenoid and panel, removed some bolts where threads have been exposed to the elements for the last 20 odd years, wiped down and threads are still like new! David
Yes it is, BUT if connection is clean and tight it will prevent deterioration and NOT cause any issues...
Ok so first off sorry its been a while but I got caught up in a few things! Now then, what i've so far was changing the cable from the starter to the solenoid and the ground cable to the motor! Both are stel\el braided cables by Taylor! The solenoid was replaced a while back so that couldn't be much of a problem. The starter was tested a while back but im not 100% sure on that, i still want to replace it. I dont know what the condition of the battery is but it was tested and recharged awhile back. I dont know what else can cause the electrical system to COMPLETELY fail! As of right now, nothing turns on, no lights, radio, emergency lights, nothing! What else can cause this, I need other possibilities other than everyone repeating the same thing over and over again!
I recommend you buy yourself a new battery. Clean the ends of the battery cables with one of those wire battery cable cleaners you can buy for 5 bucks. Hook it up and make sure the clamps are tight.
uhhhh..... so you tried jumping over the selenoid and going battery straight to starter and nothing happened? In my mind that means battery or starter issue. Try borrowing the battery from a working car if you want to rule out the battery. If it is the starter, which I doubt, it wouldn't account for your other electrics not working - unless you have more than one issue. If you get movement on the starter bypassing the selenoid, then something's probably funky with the selenoid. You can probably (someone fact check me on this) run a similar gauge wire from the battery straight to the little wires that plug into the front of the selenoid. If you start getting power to things, then it's another "oh snap" on the selenoid. But still could be a fuse, if nothing happens (In general I've found it good policy just to do what Frank says ) I'm no expert, use care playing with electronics, standard disclaimer, yadda yadda..
