A am a new member here and also a new owner of a 73 Maverick 250 6 cylinder. The car has 23,000 miles but has not ran since 1990. It does try to run when pouring gas down the carb. While I wait for a new fuel pump, I want to give it a fresh tuneup. I am sure it has the original spark plugs. All six of them are stuck. As I do other work, changing belts. hoses and thermostat, I keep drowning each spark plug with WD 40 occassionally. After 1/2 can, all are still stuck. I am tempted to use a breaker bar but fear breaking them off. Any suggestions?
are you using a spark plug socket with the rubber bushing in side? it helps keep you centered while driving and removing spark plugs. it does make a difference and you will be less likely to break the porcelain part of the plug. if you do break the porcelain its just a electrical terminal.
A '73 engine will have 18mm spark plugs, not likely to break one off... My favorite method for knocking ones loose that can be easily accessed(as on a 6cyl), is electric impact wrench...
I have air compressor that builds to 150 p.s.i. and also a Dewalt 1/2 inch electric impact first. Thanks for the info.
some say yes, some say no...I'm a yes person. http://www.all-spec.com/Catalog/Che.../80071-38794?gclid=COyYyZ2y-s4CFY-MaQod98oIMQ
Try spraying some Rust Pentrant instead of the WD .. There are some great compounds on the market . Cometized (Chip)
a new owner of a 73 Maverick 250 6 cylinder. The car has 23,000 miles but has not ran since 1990. It does try to run when pouring gas down the carb. ...all are still stuck. I am tempted to use a breaker bar but fear breaking them off. Any suggestions? physics - heat is your friend ... heat plug or surrounding head with torch, soak with penetrant ( simple candle wax is my favorite), maybe try whackin' it, a few times , maybe it will let go ... Maverick 250's seem to have a strong will to live. have fun
I agree. WD 40 is a water dispersant, not a penetrating oil per se. Try soaking the plugs with PB Blaster, Kroil or any other product specifically designed for breaking loose rusted parts. WD 40 makes a penetrating oil that is different that the standard WD 40 product, also.
I'm a PB Blaster guy - soak it and let it sit a couple hours (or overnight is better) - that plus the proper socket with a breaker bar style ratchet and you should be getting them out without a problem.
I install all my plugs w/ "Antiseize" compound. I use the silver type and never have an issue removing plugs. Something you might consider once you get them out...
Yep, especially with aluminum heads. I've had great luck with Bostik "Never Seez". I also use it on suspension bolts and brake parts that have a tendency to seize up. If you have ever tried to remove fox body rear control arm bolts, you know what I mean.
This post ended up hitting close to home. I purchased a set of 3 bar GT40 heads off of a guy in Norwalk last year to put on my Thunderbird. Like most stuff that comes off of an Explorer here in the rust belt, they were rusty. I disassembled each one to port them, only to find that one spark plug would not come out. I soaked the crap out of it with PB Blaster only to completely shatter the plug when I tried removing it. Only the threaded end and the sleeve that fits into the counter bore in the head remained. You could see right through it, as the insulator was gone. I purchased a #5 easy out and darn near broke it, but nothing gave. After 1 entire week of spraying it every night, I put a large crescent wrench on the easy out and said, "screw it, if it breaks, it breaks". On my last attempt, it finally broke loose and came out. Kudos to Dewalt for making an easy out that should have snapped given all of the force I exerted on it. Persistence pays off!
