Water pump recommendations.

I guess when I doubt I can always call their tech support and get a recommendation drirectly from the company.

 

Maybe, assuming the radiator can dissipate the heat quickly enough... More flow isn't going to improve lack of heat transfer in a marginal radiator...

That's someone spouting out of their anal orifice, the flow is trying to push the stat open, if anything it will open quicker...

 

Too much flow...or a better word "too fast" of a flow won't allow time for the coolant enough time to soak the heat. Same goes from having a too big of a radiator not allowing operating temperature.

 

I've seen that posted on here before and it isn't true. More coolant flow will provide more cooling.

 

Absolutely right. Purely rhetorical, but what happens to engine operating temps when the t-stat is removed? Biggest problem with the theory of "keeping the water in the rad longer so it can cool" is that it also keeps it in the block and heads longer too. Which is exactly what you do NOT want to happen.

As Tom already eluded to above, at higher loads and lower speeds/airflow levels(pulling trailer up very long grades in lower gears) .. you could.. potentially.. reach the saturation point where the radiators design(or current efficiency level after crud buildup) would not allow additional cooling affects to be realized from that increased flow. But still highly improbable on anything with a performance radiator and doubtful you'll see many Mav's or Comets loaded down with 4 passengers pulling a trailer up logs grades heading into the mountains. Maybe 30 years ago when people used to put hitches on almost anything with tires.. but probably not going to see many of these cars pulling trailers around today. lol

It's all basic thermodynamics. The other thing people rarely understand or take advantage of is the higher flow pump designs capability to increase cooling system pressures by way of their higher volume throughput which adds increased restriction.. and therefore pressure rises. This increases the systems pressure capability when combined with a 16-20 lb cap. This higher pressure further reduces hot spots in the cylinder heads and on well developed/more powerful combinations can lead to increased power potential through reductions in detonation sensitivity. Allows you to push the tune further without getting into trouble as quickly.

The natural progression that I have settled towards for anything operating in extreme heat, making decent power and/or getting revved on occasion is the combination of under-drive pulleys with high volume pump/impeller using high flow t-stat(VERY IMPORTANT or much of that potentially added flow volume is lost) and any form of surfactant/water tension based water wetter product.

At the bare minimum I would always run a lower-temp(180° at most unless winter heat is needed) high flow t-stat(with included or self drilled bleed orifice) and some form of water wetter. Also consider that it's not necessarily the T-stat springs opening point that controls the temperature.. but the actual sq/in opening during any given engine operating temp range. T-stat's are not simple open/closed switches and there are many partially open states. So, in essence.. lower temp t-stats become high flow t-stats since they give larger openings at typical engine running temps.

PS. I have also found that the pumps bearing/seal lasts much longer when you get rid of the fan. E-fans add even more temp tuning ability.

 

I didn't know there was a such thing as High Flo Stat. BTW - I have 180 stat and get pretty gud heat w/ my E -Fan the few "rare" times I take the car out when temp in the teens.

 

groberts thank you so much for the detailed explanation. After much research I actually decided to follow a similar route and got both a high flow pump with a high flow 160* t stat. I am already have a 3 core champion radiator with an electric fan that will be used with this combo. I will make sure to run some water wetter also.

 

I think the hi-volume coolant pump a gud idea; I replaced mine 5yrs ago w/ cast HD pump. I was not aware of the hi-vol pumps. I have the 3 core rad., E-fan w/ DIY shroud and 180 stat. I have no issues cept when in up 90's w/ AC cranking waitin for a long idle period. I can run 220-30, but, w. iron heads not overly concerned. If I were to install Taraus fan or that hi-flow pump wud probably remedy that issue. Being as that only occurs infrequently, I think I'm going to roll the way it is -- at least for now. If I have to replace the pump again, will be w/ hi-flow alum.

 

Got the flow kooler water pump and t stat installed yesterday. They are fantastic! The car ran at a great temperature at highway speed and at idle. Added an eccentric for the fuel pump while I was at it and added a nice mechanical fuel pump. Put about 60 miles on the car today.