C4 installation confusion

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by Rev Ron, Apr 13, 2017.

  1. Rev Ron

    Rev Ron Member

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    I've been working this issue for more than a year and need some input. I'm installing a C4 into my 71 Comet GT, in behind a HO 5.0. It is a rebuilt 66 C4. I am told the flex plate and torque converter are the right ones. When I bolt them up, I know the torque converter is all the way back where it belongs. Then, the nuts that I use, which are the necessary C4 tranny nuts that are just for the C4, rub against the aluminum plate. Thoughts and suggestions?
     
  2. COMETIZED

    COMETIZED Member

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    Is your tranny a Pan Fill or Case Fill ? Some take a different converter . Letusknow
    Cometized
    (Chip)
     
  3. Rev Ron

    Rev Ron Member

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    My C4 is the average case fill tranny.
     
  4. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    Does your torque converter have 2 drain plugs ? I was reading a bunch of articles about problems like you are having and that was one of the problems. I am sure that you have the motor plate behind flexplate on that would be too obvious . I have heard of transmissions put together wrong and everything was forward of what it should be.

    If it just rubbing a little I might be inclined to grind a little off what ever is rubbing but if it wont even turn then thats not a solution.
     
  5. stumanchu

    stumanchu Stuart

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    Is there supposed to be a spacer between the flexplate and the back of the crankshaft?
     
  6. Rev Ron

    Rev Ron Member

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    My torque converter has only one drain plug.

    I have not installed any sort of spacer. I'm thinking that what you call a spacer was actually designed to make the flex plate stronger. I am thinking it would not be between the motor and flex plate, but between the fleet plate and converter.
     
  7. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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  8. modmav

    modmav Member

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    Its not unusual for aftermarket or high performance converters to have longer bolts all you have to do is grind 1/8 to 1/4 inch off then all will be fine
     
  9. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Correct...

    I bought a house brand converter from Summit Racing that didn't seat quite deep enough, caused the studs/nuts to drag on the block plate... Sent it back and got a Hughes, fit perfectly...

    Read it again Frank, he's having problem with nuts dragging on aluminum(block) plate...
     
  10. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    I will take the heat for Frank on that one he was just going from what I had posted about it and the confusion about what a block plate is
     
  11. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    thanks...I had a block plate the wasn't completely flat once that would hit.
     
  12. maverick306

    maverick306 Member

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    Both my tci converters studs were to long had grind flat to the nut.
     
  13. COMETIZED

    COMETIZED Member

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    Hey Ron:
    Which ' flex plate ' are you using ? If you have a 5.0 HO engine you need a 50 oz. flex plate . What year is the
    5.0 engine ? If it's 83 or NEWER .. you definitely need a 50 oz. flex plate. Let us know.
    This info from Dr.Bill of CAMEO .
    Cometized
    (Chip)
     
  14. Rev Ron

    Rev Ron Member

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    Got er done, I think. The tranny bolted up. Now, the linkage, cooler lines and tranny fluid... then start her up and pray, or is it pray first, then start her up?
     
  15. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    I think it's a little of both...

    I do need to ask what have you been told about the flexplate??? As mentioned a newer than '82 302/5.0 engine needs a special flexplate, the orig will bolt up but will be badly out of balance... The required plate was never a production piece but is readily available in the aftermarket...
     

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