OK, the cam, springs, and lifters came in from tbirdz12. It all looks great. My head man installed the springs today. They spec out at an installed height of 1.860. Seat pressure is 255# and 625# open at .615 lift. Coil bind is at .690. I am not going to run the new cam; just the springs and lifters. I'll save that cam for the 347 when I build it. It should rev now.
The engine is back together, but I haven't had a chance to race it yet. There's a test and tune today, but I'm not going. I will run next weekend.
Kinda figured life just got in the way of track time. If your old car wasn't parked in plain view I'd never even have time to notice it.. much less do anything constructive to it. lol Not sure which roller rockers you have but would be prudent to do periodic inspections to make sure the needles are surviving those spring pressures. Good luck at the track! And yeah.. that little motor and moderate cam combo will rev now so don't be afriad to add a few more hundred rpm to the rev limiter.
Very good advice. There are a lot of very inferior roller rockers out there that look cosmetically nice, but cannot even survive street use with a mild cam. I've seen some of the Summit returns on the demo rack. I won't state the brand, but they were rough just rotating them in my hand. The reviews often complained of "valve train noise". The tip rollers wobbled and the pins were poorly swaged.
Went to Firebird yesterday. Really nice weather. First run was without the #2 plug wire firmly connected and of course not firing the plug. Runs 13.05 on seven cylinders. Second run was 12.26 with DA at 4500. First round was 12.41 off the gas win on a 12.30 dial-in. Second run was not good. Shifter went all the way into neutral on 2-3 shift. Of course I lost. Found another way to lose. It appears that if I don't hold the lever all the way back on that shift it won't activate the detent to keep it from going into neutral. B&M shifter. Off to the track again today. Looks like it will be cooler today.
Sounds like you need a reverse manual valve body to avoid the second to neutral missed shift, I have one that I just took out of my car that I am going to sell, interested shoot me a pm. Get some wins under your belt and make the team and come on down to Woodburn for the finals and I will cheer you on, just you not the team. LOL I know how you feel about finding another way to lose I think I could right a book at the ways I have discovered
Good bad day. Redlight in third round. I'm beginning to get the hang of racing the stripe. The plugs I put in yesterday were not good. Breaking down at over 6200. But, I adjusted my time to account for it and won the first two rounds by driving by and matching speed with a half a car length. Third round the car moved when I brought the rpm up. About an inch, so I knew it would be a really good light, or a redlight. -.035 red! I also broke out 12.20 on a 12.25 dial in. And that was with a lift at the lights. Fun day. Car gets new plugs tomorrow and I might bring the fuel pressure up a bit. I need a line lock. I have two, just need to install one.
When you install the line loc there are rules in the book on how it should be installed, most people including me just take the line from master cylinder for front brakes to the line loc solenoid and then to front brakes, quick and easy but not legal according to NHRA regulations. Tech inspectors have never question my set up but you never know when you will get one that knows the rule especially if you get to the finals if they will call you on it and that would be a real bummer. Sorry to tell you this if you already knew it just trying to help New NHRA rule states that the line lock must be placed AFTER the proportioning valve. As others have stated......OUT of proportioning valve - INTO line lock solenoid; OUT of solenoid - TO front brakes. I only use my line loc for burn out as it will only hold as good as your brakes anyways and just another thing to remember to do at the line. I found that stock drum brakes hold better at the line than stock disc brakes as you can set them tight.
That's good info on the line lock. Installing it now downstream of the proportioning valve. I will probably only use it for the burnout, too.
Put new plugs in. Also adjusted fuel pressure to 6.5 at 3500. We're racing Friday night for the club races. I will run then (no points) and again on Sunday for points.
If Firebird is anything like Woodburn for the points race you just have to make it to all the races and win a couple here and there and you will make the team, I was always fooling around and not able to make all the races because car was down but mainly went for the wife, when we were in the heat of racing she made the team 4 times and was in the race of champions one year. Its funny she never wanted to race the car, at that time we had a 96 Mystic Cobra and a friend of ours the service manager of the Ford garage here told her she would not hurt it and we went to an all Fords race and she was hooked. Of course after quite a few races the car had its problems like clutch then tranny then rear end gears but each brake down better parts were installed on the car and she did not care as long as I had the car ready for next race. We raced for 10 years before we got burnt out 19 point races during the season not to mention special events. 100 miles one way to the track over bad road. We ended up racing at Firebird, Bremerton, White City, Yakima, Seattle, Madras, Mission Canada, Portland at one time it was our goal to race at all the Division 6 tracks. Firebird was the first track we raced at besides Woodburn besides the yellow jackets and the black widow spiders we had a great time there and the competition is fierce between Woodburn and Firebird. Many Woodburn racers make it to several special event you have there. Sorry if I have bored you with my ramblings good luck this season and see you in September
