Rack & Pinon steering

Looking for advise on good alignment specs, I know it has been asked a hundred times, but I have the Unisteer rack and pinion which is a rather quick ratio set up I believe it is 3 turns lock to lock. I am hoping someone here has this setup and has found the perfect alignment specs if there is such a thing. right now I have 3.5 caster, -.7 camber and 22 total toe, and still a little touchy at highway speeds. we are considering backing the caster back to 2.5 and a little less toe. started with 30 total toe and that scared the hell out of me. I know the factory specs show 1/16 to 1/8 toe which is less than I have now so maybe I need more like 5 to 7 total toe. Anyone have any ideas.

 

not apples and apples but my Rod and Custom rack n pinion specs are the stock maverick specs.

 

Are those spec's for Manual Rack? The Unisteer is pwr rack. U might want to consult Unisteer on what they recommend.
Also, Nick Dominick's car was the mule for the Unisteer setup; his car was in Lima Ohio last year and some of those who drove it seem to like it. U might PM him to get some ideas.
http://mmb.maverick.to/threads/unisteer-rack-and-pinion-steering.94182/

 

stock caster is -.5 to +1 is that correct, is that what you are at because I shimmed my upper and now at 3.5 and was at 1.5 before and seemed better than 3.5

 

I will, and I do like it but believe where the problem arises is the quick ratio so I am attempting to tame it down a bit so may bring the toe closer to 0 and try that and also I have seen many which like the 2.5 caster

 

I did ask and they responded that they could only recommend stock settings and would have to experiment from there, I was hoping to keep from going back on the rack a half dozen times or more, alignment guy is good but with the rack and pinion he is experimenting

 

when I went to the shop I told the guy what specs I wanted (brought the specs with me), he set it to that then I drove out. I keep a copy in my wallet in case something get out when traveling.

 

I see your point Frank, but dealing w/ power steering presents a different set of issues. I have been dealing w/ the Borg conversion for 3 years -- I know R&P is a different format. But, after finally getting the alignment right -- there is other issues that make PS setup a different animal. Before, installing a Borg pressure reducing kit, car was sensitive over 55 mph. After the kit, can drive 70+ as long as, crosswinds relatively calm.

I added 3 shims to the pressure side of the pump, made night/day difference. There are other issues w/ PS, flow rate, fluid temp and a few others I found by stumbling onto this site:
https://www.turnone-steering.com/blogs/tech-101
I am considering installing a flow rate reducer in the pump -- to see how that effects the operation.

Point being: I have learned a lot of things in the realm of PS that I never would have imagined w/o getting involved w/ this project.

 

I have the Unisteer system as well, but have not driven the car since I installed it. Nick has had it longer than anyone. He should be a good source of info.

Whatever the case, let us know where the sweet spot is after you are done experimenting.

 

my car had PS, the rack is manual and the specs were for the stock PS.

 

I did the same thing installed a smaller flow valve which did help somewhat

 

What's 30 toe in??? Never heard of such... AFAIK a 1/16" to 1/8" is all any RWD vehicle should have...

Adding positive caster and some negative camber increases stability... I'd try something like +3 caster and -1 camber...

 

thats in degrees and if you convert that to inches its way too much

 

Those settings will destroy tires in a short while... Ridin' down the road with tires pointing at each other...

 

I don't see why stock specs wouldn't work. You're stll using the stock suspension, aren't you?