Yes, thanks for following up. This was fixed. It was hard to spot, but the guide for the adjuster cable was partially dislodged. Didn't see it until I looked close with a work light and saw a small gap on the back side. Even after I saw it I would have sworn it wasn't enough to make any difference, but it did pull the adjuster back in to place. All 4 wheels completely disassembled, cleaned up and reassembled. Test driven and brakes stop well. No pulling to either side. Solid stop. But there will be more. I'm not happy with them. Too much travel on the pedal, but not spongy or falling. And manual brakes are just tiresome to drive with, esp for my 85 yo Grandfather. I've been trying to research here on the forums a bit. Mostly confusing myself so far on the best options for improving the brakes on our 74 Mav 302 w/ auto. Convert to disc? Find a booster? The info I've read so far somewhat contradictory, maybe referring to different models? What parts fit which models (eg. Will this fit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-...074212?hash=item2a6e795e64:g:T1QAAOSwxupbA2Jg)? What power booster? What work is involved for converting to power brakes? etc. Still researching this topic...
I would upgrade to disk whether I went to power booster or not. You may find, that going to booster not necessary. The kit ur looking at seems to be reasonably priced. Also, I like the fact, the pads can be changed w/o removing caliper. I would go for it!
If the brakes are done correctly, there should be no more travel than with manual discs. Did you change the brake hoses ? Old hoses will swell with a brake application, making the travel seem longer. Also you might check all the pedal bushings too, if they're worn out, that will also add to the pedal travel. And tighten up on the clearances between the shoes and drums. Everything's right, it should stop just as quickly as any other braking system. Where drums fall short is in heavy prolonged braking ( in heavy stop and go or on long down grades)
Without a booster, disc brakes WILL have a much harder pedal than drum. Good drum brakes have a lighter pedal because the shoes tend to "dig in"(rotate slightly), causing the lining to grip drum tighter. Also shoes take a longer time to bed in than disc. Usually extra pedal travel can be eliminated by adjusting shoes a bit tighter. Try setting parking brake to point it's beginning create a little drag, if travel is reduced that's at least part of your problem. Often a few forward/reverse stops helps.
How can you figure out what size the front drums are? I have the same problem but it pulls to the left. I’m kinda paranoid about pulling them open and making it worse or something.
Since you are in California, you might get lucky - as the size is stamped into the edge of the drum and if you are in a low rust area, you might be able to read it yet. Here in the rust belt, the drums get too crusty to read after some time goes by. Either way, once you get the wheel off you can just measure the drum with a tape measure while still on the car to see what size you have.
I second the comment about changing to disks. Four wheel drums just don't do that well in modern traffic. One Civic jumps in front of you nails the brakes, there goes your cool old car.
