New 302 swap problems

So I primed the oil pump and spun it up before install dist.

All things hooked up and it ran for about 8 seconds really nice and then quit.

I can get it running with starter fluid for 3-5 seconds and with pumping the gas randomly but its harder.

I'm pretty sure I'm close to time but cant get it to run enough to check with the light.

Somethings I do know may be causing issues. The sight bowls on the carb seem a little high. Ill back the level down tomorrow.

The plug going to the coil was one I had to put a different end on because jegs sent me the kind of wires with female ends on each side so I had to make a temp for now and it was arching earlier. Firing may be screwed up? Also am having to use the bigger adapter on top of dis vs regular cap until I can get the male female end wires.

One more thing is I cannot seem to stop the gas from weeping from the connector on the carb in the fuel line. I'm to the point now if I tighten it more I'm afraid it'll break.

Any ideals on what may cause an engine to run a little then totally die?

 

You mentioned it ran nice for about 8 seconds and then quit, could be fuel related or "temp" fix on that plug wire going to the coil? I would try correcting that plug wire first, before monkeying around with everything else, remember it did run nice, so should not be something too bad........Fuel level slightly high will not kill your motor either.
I see you have those chromed plated fittings going to carb, when I had my 4010 Holley (same as your Summit, as they took over that design from Holley), my fuel inlet line had chromed plated fittings, it always leaked until I wire wheeled off the chrome plating on the threads, that fixed my problem.
David

 

Yep they're chrome fittings. Ill wire wheel them for sure. And man did it sound mean for 8 seconds! I miss that. Ill get those wire changed first and then take that chrome off.

 

Thread sealer on those threads would probably fix your issue with the fuel leak.

 

It said not to use any but I'm going to now. I always have. The one time I follow their directions, it leaks lol.

 

I'd never trust any sealer on a gas leak.

Usually flare on fitting or tubing is worn or damaged.

 

Advance the timing a little also.

 

I even tried thread sealer on my chromed fittings, still leaked, only when I removed the chromed plating from the threads was when it stopped. As suggested, you can try thread sealer or Teflon pipe wrap might work for you, just be careful not to get any on the inside of the fitting, as this could get lose and plug up the carb!
David

 

Just a hunch, turn to key to run and check for power at the positive side of the coil. The coil gets power from two sources, the solenoid sends full 12 volts at initial start up then the ignition switch takes over giving power through the resistor wire. Probably not the issue but since it only runs for a moment it might only be getting power from the solenoid when it's cranking. Thought it was worth mentioning since it has bit me more than once!

 

if it ran for only 8 secs. I wouldn't think it's gas, the bowls should have more than 8 secs. of gas in them.

 

Check to see if it's getting spark.

 

The only other thing is that doesnt make sense is that 2 times AFTER I turned the key off I heard a clicking sound that sounded like it was at the back spark plug area. First time on the driver side second time on the passenger side. But it sounded exactly like a plug wire arching and continuing.....but the switch was off and the key out.

Does it matter if its in park or drive on the column even though I disconnected the linkage?

It does seem to want to keep running if I keep the starter engaged slightly longer....so I wonder if its an issue there.

 

Sure sounds like an electrical issue to me , I would check for spark like Larry and others have said. You might try using a jumper wire from battery + to coil + that would help eliminate wiring issues from key switch and you could even take it a step further and jump the starter solenoid from battery + to small post on starter solenoid start wire which I believe is the small post closest to the battery, essentially you would be hot wiring the car and eliminating all wiring going to key switch. Always good to know how to hot wire a car, at least older cars

I would make sure it is in park on column and transmission just to be on the safe side . Clicking sound is weird could it be an exhaust leak ? there is no reason for any spark when not turning unless pertronix unit is faulty, 8 seconds could be the time it took for something electrical to go bad, wish you had another distributor to install just to check out the possibility of a bad pertronix

Now you need to shoot a video of you banging you head on a wall . LOL Hang in there you will get it figured out

 

I have the plug wires I need on the way but it'll be about a week. I'm going to put the points and condenser back in and work my way from there. I dont understand the clicking either. It literally did it twice after I took the key out. I even had time to walk around to the passenger side to look at the back spark plug area. Ive never heard anything like that in my life.

 

Maybe Frank stopped by and kicked out his ghost?