Question on my casting number, im buying a master rebuild kit

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by farmerjimbob, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. farmerjimbob

    farmerjimbob My names Bryce

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2019
    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    18
    Trophy Points:
    87
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Leesville, South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    1973 Ford Maverick 4-Door V8
    Noob in need of help :slap:
    so i am looking through different rebuild kits, there are kits for 1963-1972, there is 1968-like 1981 or 82, then the rest dont matter to me. my maverick is a 1973 came stock with the 302. original motor. based on the engine code it is a 1972 torino block. i read that it was put in a number of different models up to around 1975.

    [​IMG]

    so the numbers read--- D20E-6015-AB
    and the casting date--- 3F30

    ok, so as far as i have found the block is a D is 70 2 makkes 72 O is for torino E is for engine

    the 6015 ive read is a ford internal part number :huh:

    the AB is the revision of the block, doesnt mean much to me either

    the casting date 3F30 i have deciphered to be casted june 30th 1973

    ---So my actual question is, is this a 1972 block, or a 1973 block??


    so what matters? the engine code date, or the casting date?

    what rebuild kit should i be buying one for a 73 or one for a 72?
    i have read different things one being that the 302 was not created til 1968
    the kit im looking at is good for 1963-1972 but it spans the 289's and 302's so i assume the 289 must have started in 63.

    im not a total noob to this, but when im dropping a few hundred bucks, i want to be sure. some help and clarification would be great! thanks ahead guys! :cheers:

    -Bryce

     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
  2. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2012
    Messages:
    1,327
    Likes Received:
    450
    Trophy Points:
    196
    Location:
    Carrollton TX
    Vehicle:
    72 Comet
    Ford did not change the casting numbers on blocks, heads or manifolds each year, they only changed when the actual casting was altered. The casting number also does not always indicate what vehicle the block came from. Your D2 block may have been cast in 1972, or any year after until that casting was superseded by another. When you say rebuild kit, what are we talking about, gaskets, seals, bearings, rings; does it include cam and pistons? 289 and 302's for the most part use the same gaskets, seals, bearings, and rings. That is why some kits will say they cover both engines. If you are preparing to rebuild the motor, you may want to define what your goals are for the rebuild. Are you wanting a stock rebuild or are you looking for increased performance? As you say, when dropping a few hundred bucks you want to be sure. Early 70's were transitioning from performance engines to economy, thus the main difference between kits will probably be cam and pistons.
     
    mojo, Krazy Comet and Miguel Arzola like this.
  3. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    Messages:
    7,561
    Likes Received:
    2,319
    Trophy Points:
    531
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Chesapeake VA
    Vehicle:
    1972 Comet GT clone 306 . 1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 1988 T-Bird awaiting 331 ..
    6015 is basic part number for a engine block, every block will have this number. The remaining digits ID it displacement, differences from a similar engine(such as 4 bolt main, boss 302 block) and original year.

    As far as Torino, my orig '72 engine has same number. Each part is assigned to a division and then generally used in every carline till maybe next change and part could be assigned to a different line.

    As mentioned year isn't really important, minor changes occur, such as front main seal installing from outside cover vs inside. A big change was when rear main changed from two piece to one piece but that didn't happen till early '80s.
     
    farmerjimbob likes this.
  4. farmerjimbob

    farmerjimbob My names Bryce

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2019
    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    18
    Trophy Points:
    87
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Leesville, South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    1973 Ford Maverick 4-Door V8
    I appriciate the responses guys (y)

    I am taking the block to a machine shop to have the cracked cylinder(s) sleeved and everything honed even. The kit i am looking to buy will be a full kit- pistons, cam, lifters, pretty much everything but the crank and piston rods. I am even replacing my cam bearings, and going to be reworking my heads as well. I have my best buddy who lives a half mile from me that is psyched to help get this baby purring. He wants the heads at his shop while im reworking the block in mine. Hes a chevy guy, but really want to see me get her back on the road. He loved how it sounded and pulled last time i had her running. I was looking at amazon, and ebay, but it looks like they all have a bunch of junk kits with no good info. Like the sets with cams dont ecen have the cam info, lobe sep. Dur. Lift. So im kind of over that idea. I started filling my basket on jegs last night. I wasnt real impressed with summit. Any other sites i should check out?

    Thanks!
    -Bryce
     
  5. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2004
    Messages:
    4,771
    Likes Received:
    1,155
    Trophy Points:
    587
    Garage:
    2
    Location:
    Tillamook Oregon
    Vehicle:
    72 Maverick 1976 Maverick Stallion 2007 Shelby GT 500 2019 Ford F150 FX4 2023 Bronco
    Sounds like you have it under control . Been there and done this several times, seems like I always spent more that I thought it would cost but was always worth it, at least thats what I told the wife
     
  6. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2012
    Messages:
    7,561
    Likes Received:
    2,319
    Trophy Points:
    531
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Chesapeake VA
    Vehicle:
    1972 Comet GT clone 306 . 1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 1988 T-Bird awaiting 331 ..
    If it's cracked I'd find another block. Still plenty Explorers around that make good donors.
     
    Hotrock and jasonwthompson like this.
  7. farmerjimbob

    farmerjimbob My names Bryce

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2019
    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    18
    Trophy Points:
    87
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Leesville, South Carolina
    Vehicle:
    1973 Ford Maverick 4-Door V8
    Ive thought about that, but being i have all the original parts i kinda want to stick with the original block.

    Honeycutt is giving me a great price on the sleeving and honing. $300 bucks to sleeve 1 cylinder, and hone all to matching. if it is more than 1 cylinder, $60 for each additional. Pretty sure from visually inspecting it its only 1 though.

    The car only has like 94k original miles


    As of this evening
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    I also got the oil pump, pistons and rods out. i also got the old gaskets off and scraped clean. gave it all a wipe down, and covered it up for the night. i have to dig around for my harmonic puller. tomorrow i will remove h. balancer, timing cover, timing chain and gears, cam, cam bearings, and the crank. i think thats about all. i planned on getting it to the machine shop today, but i work slow, and take my sweet time. low stress guy here. some call it lazy i call it zen :happy:

    i appreciate all the great info and suggestions guys! im going to start working on my 2016 rebuild post in my garage soon, probably this sunday afternoon. should have it up late sunday. i have a lot of pics to upload. wish there was a way to mass select picture files, or upload a folder at a time :whew: ill keep plugging away and updating. once i get my past rebuild posted up, then ill be uploading leisurely as i make progress. small steps but im gonna get it knocked!

    thanks again!
    -Bryce
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2019

Share This Page