1970 Maverick project.

So...are there different types of wheel cylinders for the front?? Good ole Oreillys had 2 but the bolts from the old one are too large for the new one. Plus the old one is larger in width and diameter it seems.

 

welcome from a fellow 70s owner. I got my 70 grill on ebay and it was argent colored. I sanded it down and painted it black.
http://smegnl.medina.oh.us/index.php/maverick/59-grille

 

Your fourth photo is of your car's idler arm not pitman arm. Easy to replace.

 

Did you buy them for the 70? Since you have five lug wheels you will probably want to tell them you have a 71 with a V8 to get the correct part (hopefully). Not knowing what the spindles/brakes came off could make it a challenge. Back when I was in auto parts we would have you get the casting number off the cylinder and cross it over. Not sure they'd have a clue how to do it anymore. You could always get that number and google it, might get you where you need to be.

 

I am 99% in '71 Maverick switched to same cylinders and hoses that were used on Torino/Fairlane with drum brakes.

The '70 parts are unique to year and I believe one of the brake hoses are NLA.​

 

I think the 250 six came with five-lug (and 10" drum), and the engine was offered late 1970. Someone will know for sure. The NAPA web site shows both 9" and 10" front drums available for the 1970 (the 10-inch should be five lug, the 9-inch four lug).

 

Yes sir...I realized that after the fact. Felt like a dummy but it happens. I am going to replace everything eventually.

 

So I searched the internet last night and that part number and that was it but as you stated, having 5 lug may have changed something but...I went to an older parts store, told them what I have and walla! They had 1 and it was the one I needed and it was the correct one. When I went back to Oreillys to bring it back, he put in the raybestos part number and it cross referenced to his. I'm sure it would work if I could have found the right bolts to mount. Here is the part number.

 

So I was able to get everything back together, got all the brakes bleed and now she has a hard pedal like we all wish we had(no offense to any women on here).

 

Engine:
After the brakes were done, I started messing with the engine. I did a compression test. 1,2,4,and 6 had between 120-130 compression. 3 and 5 had 150. When I ran it, 3 and 5 were not firing. I went to the same parts store and got new cap, rotor, plug wires, points and condenser. I had to buy a feeler gauge as well cause it has been many many moons since I have messed with points. I set them at .27. Cranked her up with my vacuum gauge hooked up and it's around 17lbs steady after adjusting the timing to 6btdc and adjusting carb. When I hooked the vacuum line back up to the vac advance it started running rough. I'm gonna replace the hose and probably buy another vac advance as well just to be safe.
When inspecting my cap, I found a hole in the cap between 3 and 5 which coincidentally were the 2 cyl not firing.
No clue what the hole is for but it does look like someone drilled it.

 

The hole in the distributor cap is baffling.

 

Thanks, as far as the hole...for the life of me I can't imagine what it would be for. There is an aftermarket tach hooked up and i am wondering if the PO drilled the hole to run the wire through before going a different way.

 

Unlike the Mustang & Fairlane equipped with 250 & five lug, doesn't apply to Maverick. The 6cyl were four lug till all switched in '73.,

The hole in dist cap is far enough away from terminals that it should make no difference. Usually two adjacent dead cylinders have a burn inside cap. Because cap is also broken, probably there to rig a tie down?

 

Don't know if that was the intention here, but many moons ago guys would drill holes in distributor caps like that to supposedly let out the ionized air inside the cap and prevent cross firing. Bad part was it also allowed moisture in. Later Ford did the same thing with their high voltage caps but they put a kind of one-way valve in the hole, looks like a plastic cap over the hole.
Set your ignition timing for 10-12 degrees advance.

 

I remember those caps that had the small plastic cap on them.