Well gentlemen(and ladies) I can say without a doubt the clutch works awesome. I have not been able to drive the car mutch because I got it adjusted about half an hour before I had to go to work. It does not have excessive force on the pedal, It moves freely, shifts through all gears easily and it sounds awesome. The only thing I have left to do is finish some wiring up on my fan control relay and I will be driving it around, I will get some more pics up here pretty quick.:bananaman
Well I figured I better add some pics of my progress on what I did for the last couple weekends First I installed my mini starter Got it off of ebay with a wiring conversion kit included, it is remanufactured and is a ford starter, lot easier to get in there then the old starter, and it was less then half the cost of one from autozone. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUST...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2313ff2f80 Last week I did the nasty job of putting Por-15 all over my floors my windshield gaskets dried out and has about an inch gap in it so when it rains water pours in through there. and this is what I did this weekend, it is the same stuff as peel and seal, just a different brand and 5 bucks cheaper for almost a 10 ft longer roll
Well guys I think I can say that the install went awesome The transmission works great, I have a little vibration at about 55 and I have to get my carb adjusted in completely but she runs great. Had my wife and kids chasing me around town in the expedition, wanted to make sure the carb problems didnt leave me stuck anywhere (sorry bout the crappy cell phone pics she had the kids at peach days all day and I didnt want to run around without a chase car) Here we are at the old DQ. The kids got some coupons for free cones at peach days today so it sounded like a plan running the car down there...And yes I know the poor car is absolutely filthy. I am not really excited on washing it till I get the new window gaskets in. Now onto the rest of the car
Does the 70 mavericks have a smaller tunnel? Looking at your pics and at my floor mine seems smaller?
yes the 1970 transmission tunnel is smaller you can open it up wider or put a later model tunnel on it.
Thanks for the pictures at the pedal as I will need to do the same thing soon for my Top Loader install. Bruce
markso125, I don't know the difference between a tko and a t5.. My question is will the hydraulic set up you have work on a t5 ? I know I will need a different slave bracket...
The TKO is an aftermarket only transmisson made by Tremec who is also the current manufacturer of the T5. My current transmission the TKO 3550 is capable of standing up to a motor that produces around 525 ft./lbs torque capacity. Wheras the Ford Racing Super-Duty T-5 Transmissions M-7003-Z is rated to a motor that produces around 330 ft./lbs. torque capacity(about the strongest factory T5 you can buy, yes you can still buy them new from ford racing, summit, jegs for about $1600). As a side note.. yes with new gears that cost as much as my transmission does new you can build the T5 to hold up to the same torque ratings as my transmission, but like I said its not cheap. Ok now onto your question, the mastercylinder setup I have on the clutch pedal assembly will work but because they are different transmissions everything I have on the transmission will not cross over to your application. There are many T5 hydraulic clutch kits out there and they are comparably priced and they will work with the clutch/master cylinder setup I have. I got my setup from Rosehill mustang, they do have a slave setup for the T5 if you are interested that comes with brackets and slave and everything and they also sell a braided stainless hydraulic line to connect the MC to the slave cylinder.. http://rosehillperformanceparts.com/Products_Page.htm#-65/66 Mustang T5 Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder Kit-
Thanks, I have a stock used t5 so the torque rating is only around 300 but for the street w/ a very mild 302 I should be ok... Yes it seems like rosehill is a great sorce for hydraulics... Do you have a picture of the bump stop you fabbed up ?
I know this is a old thread but I am about to be going down this road soon and got a question. Looking at the pics on page #2, I see where you drilled a new hole for the pushrod. I wonder if you drilled this hole in the pedal arm instead of the short bracket, if it would this give you about one inch less total pushrod travel and doing away with having to have a pedal stop. I know that you would have to remove the arm that is welded to the pedal or finish filling in the backside of the pedal to get a clean hole and use a longer bolt for the heim.
Actually that would probably make it bottom out on the master cylinder sooner. The stop is actually there to protect the master cylinder/firewall from bending or breaking. I procrastinated on doing the stop initially and drove it for a couple months.. well needless to say the pedal started getting squishy after looking at it I realized I had stomped the pedal to the floor hard enough while showing off to bottom the clutch master cylinder out and break one of the mounting ears off of the master cylinder so for me that was a $58 lesson to buy a new master cylinder from willwood and I haven't had a problem since... The rubber bump stop was only a couple bucks from Oreilleys and I only had to drill one hole and bolt it in place
Hey man just curious when you put your trans in how did you shave that trans brace on the trans tunnel? Just cut and rewelded it? And the c4 cross member will work with the Tko? Just a little trim job on it? I just put a Tko In mine and had a t5 with Frank's cross member but the tko is obviously different and I rather use the stock c4 crossmember modified if it will definitely work. Thanks your fellow maverick buddy
Yeah I just cut the brace and rewelded it there wasn't that much too remove. I used franks AOD crossmember and I had to shave some of it off to get it to work around the rear housing on the transmission. The TKO has the same mounting point as the AOD transmission and its a lot further back then the C4.
