Front Disc Swap Brake Hard Lines & Proportioning Valve Questions

While trying to figure out drum brake sizes in a sperate thread I became fully convinced to swap my 1972 Maverick from drum/drum to manual disc/drum. Thanks to the folks in the other thread that got me over the edge. I have run into a question and a problem.

I ordered the following ebay kit since I will still be able to run the original wheels which is important to me. 1970 1971 1972 73-74 FORD MAVERICK FRONT (5 LUG) DISC BRAKE FITS ORIG 14" WHEELS | eBay

I also ordered at 1974 manual disc/drum master cylinder

First the question - I am assuming I need a proportioning valve but for some reason and having trouble finding one. I would like one that fits in the stock location. Can someone tell me if this one will work? Proportioning valve with Mounting Bracket for Ford Galaxie Mustang Falcon | eBay

Not to the problem - While removing the left front brake hose I found the hose froze to the hardline. It is the first time I have ever had a tube nut round off while using a flare nut wrench. I can bend brake lines but I really don't enjoy it and would rather have a pre-bent set. I had ordered a set from The Stop Shop but today they informed me that their supplier no longer makes them. I found a set from Inline Tube that states its for power drums. is there a different in the lines for a power drum car versus a manual drum car? If its only the lines from the master cylinder to the distribution block that are different its not a big deal. 1972-77 Ford Maverick Power Drum Complete Brake Line Kit 8pc, Stainles – Inline Tube

 

I think that is the exact disk brake kit I ordered on eBay to swap my 72 comet.

I didn’t order a new valve, but had a old one I pulled from a junked car. But that looks like the valve I used as well. I bent my own upper new lines.

 

Are you happy with the brake kit?

 

As to the nut rounding, I recently replaced my calipers which were pretty old. I had one start to do just that. I was given some advice that since we know heat works on stubborn threaded items but you can't use a torch on everything because of the damage it can create collaterally, so use a small pencil torch locally on the offending threaded item. Since I have one, I did just that. The nut broke loose easily after that. Another trick in the arsenal.

 

ALMOST every time Ford changed from drum to disc, the size of nut on ends of line changed as well. It's either use adapters, cut flare from end of line & inst correct size, or bend a entirely new line.

Amazon sells a nut assortment, I have a set but yet to use one.. Still using drum/drum differential valve on my Fairlane & Comet.

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-F...s=brake+nut+assortment&qid=1624627099&sr=8-17

AFAIK the proportioning valves of era were mostly same, what's usually different is the attachment bracket.

 

I too went from 4 wheel drum to manual disc/drum. That valve you listed is the exact one I am using although I used the original drum valve bracket to mount the valve. The brake line leading to the caliper soft line is the same for power or manual disc, drums are different.

 

A proportioning valve wasn't used until '75 on the Mavericks, so just keep your original junction block.
With a '74 disc/drum master cylinder, you will have to re-flare only one end of one ov the short lines that connect to the master cylinder. You need to change the front lines to '74 Maverick/Comet disc brake lines, which is easy...

 

You can get pre-bent Maverick brake lines at:

www.RightStuffDetailing.com

Yes....they have them. They are on my car and I provided the patterns.

 

I now have the proportioning valve and am trying to figure out how to adapt the factory rear drum brake line to the proportioning valve. Brake line nut is 1/2-20 and the proportioning valve port is 7/16-24. I was just going to cut and reflate the factory line with a 7/16-24 nut but there is not enough line to do that with. Any suggestions?

 

My suggestion is to keep the original junction block and go with the '74 Maverick front disc brake option.
Only one end of one of the short lines to the M/C needs to be re-flared with the correct size fitting installed...

 

You can use an adapter..........
https://www.ebay.com/itm/122361236264?hash=item1c7d4c4b28:g:fqkAAOSw4CFYqK-Z&vxp=mtr
David

 

I’ve been looking for an adapter but I need on that goes the opposite direction. 7/16-24 make x 1/2-20 female.

 

This one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362124864216?hash=item545052ead8:g:a~gAAOSwLiJZ1SrM
David

 

Buy a short piece of line, cut factory line, connect the two together using flare nuts & union, line is now longer and you can put the correct tube nut on.

 

OR...simply follow my original suggestion. I've done 2 Maverick disc brake swaps, and they looked like they came that way from the factory when I was done...