UPDATE - Need a baseball bat Another reman carb and car will not run. So I re-rebuilt original carb. Put it on, and still no start. So at this point I am no longer looking at the fuel system as an issue. Remember - clean tank, cleared lines, clear fuel filter show clean fuel coming into the carb with no trash or rust particulates. I am digging into the vacuum system again to make sure I have no split hoses creating a leak. I have checked spark and I am getting good fire, the cap, rotor, points, condensor and coil were replaced previously. The timing may be slightly off, but not enough to create a running to rough running to non-running situation. The distributor is tight and has not moved. Other ideas? Something I'm overlooking simply because I'm too close and frustrated with the project? Sometimes fresh eyes or thinking helps a project. The canooter valve operates freely and the blinker fluid has been topped off.
Have you checked to see if your timing chain maybe worn and jump a tooth or 2? Move your #1 piston so it is Top Dead Center and check to see where timing pointer lines up with on damper marks........ David
You need air, fuel, timing (valve & ignition), and compression for an engine to run. One of them has to be off. Air is easy, fuel-I'm guessing you have a good shot from the accelerator pump when you blip the throttle. Sounds like it's time for a good timing light and compression tester.
Hmm, should be able to get it close enough to at least get it started. If #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke the rotor should be pointed right at the #1 tower on the cap...and that should be good enough to at least get it to pop over. Oops! I see I resurrected a thread from months ago. I'll leave this here just in case it's helpful to someone else one day.
If timing is close & has spark, I've tossed a splash of gas into a open intake(no carb) and had em run 3-4 seconds. Forget about vacuum, only necessary for smooth running & accessories. Leaks upset air/fuel ratio & cause rough running. Four or five years ago I demonstrated a EFI turbo 2.3, car had no gas tank, fuel pump, or carburetor(yes it had the throttle body). Ran it on fuel fed into vacuum port on intake. Used a pair of vice grips squeezing fuel line to get air/fuel ratio close. Ran good, made the sale.
Longshot, but if you have the stock steel fuel line up to the carb, could it be so cruddy inside that it cruds your float needle every time you change carbs? You got a real headscratcher.
You can set initial ignition timing statically without the engine running. Bring #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke, then set the timing marks on the crankshaft damper to around 10* BTDC. The rotor in the distributor should be pointed advanced a little before the #1 post in the cap. Turn then ignition key on and slowly turn the distributor back and forth. It'll make a popping noise when it fires the plug. Lock down the distributor where it pops. If you have a timing light you can connect to #1 plug and watch the light instead of listening for the pop.
So I'm sitting here reading this and wondering if your car has a duraspark (ignition) module.... if it does you might want to check it or replace it. If yours has one it should be located on or near the passenger side shock tower. At least mine is. A quick search on symptoms of a bad unit and it sounds like these are the issues you might be dealing with.
Why would you not pull distributor? If you,re nervous about pulling and reinstalling this could be where your problem is. You,ve got to verify things are installed correctly yourself. If you,ve never installed a distr ibutor fess up. We want to help!
