Poor acceleration after 30 min running

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mojo, May 19, 2022.

  1. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Chasing my tail on issue, after about 30 min. operation, acceleration is lazy but, once cruising improves. Before it gets to the approx. 30 min operation is decent.
    Replaced/new, coil, fuel pump and carb and still have same issue. I have DSII ignition system, have not replace box yet. Hoping to get this resolved soon -- short cruising season in midwest.
    Any suggestions, anyone experience similiar issue?
     
  2. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    A freebie check, undo the gas tank cap and see if that changes it. You might be pulling a vacuum on the tank and not getting any fuel. After that, your dist's module could be breaking down from heat.
     
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  3. BruceS

    BruceS Member

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    Check the rubber on fuel lines. Reads like you may have one cracked.
     
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  4. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Back in day, there was so many problems with both Duraspark I & II modules, were my first go to for no spark or poor performance. With contrariness of electronic systems, I always carry backup parts in the car. One of leads(white) retards timing while cranking. If it's doing so while running, would cause a poor performance issue. Hot check of timing would be a good idea.

    Pulling cap is goods idea, if problem that's a instant fix.

    A leaky fuel line between tank & pump isn't much going to care if engine is hot or cold. With a leak large enough to affect performance, should be a strong smell of gas.
     
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  5. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Fuel line relatively new, replaced short line at tank and under drivers door few years ago. I have a spare/new module been carrying around few years; guess this good time to install and see if that's the cure.

    Thank's Guy''s for all suggestions -- much appreciated!
     
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  6. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Think I may have found the problem; connector from coil to dizzy highly corroded.
    Plan, was replace pickup, screw holding plate down would not unscrew. looks like it is a damageded Phillips head . So, I decided clean up connections and use car this season, change pickup this fall. Hopefully, this put me back on road w confidence. B4 I finished rain postponed test drive till tomorrow.
     

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  7. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    I'd repl the female connector ASAP, no real way to know amount of inner damage.
     
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  8. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Ordering one from NAPA tomorrow & connector cap that goes on coil. Good suggestion, Thanks!
     
  9. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Finally figured out my issue w/ engine misfire after about 9 months of chasing the problem. Came down to #8 spark plug wire open and plug boot end corroded/rusted. Probably could have figured out sooner cept don't work in winter in un-heated space and summer temps above 85 deg. for something is a hobby. I wouldn't have figured wires were bad as only about 6 years old no visible problem, seeing as I have 3 or 4 times that old, still function. VOM told the story -- open wire. Change lot of electrical parts before I got it, but, not an issue, had car 13 years and only ignition parts I replaced, spark plugs, ignition wires rotor and cap. So I have spares in case of emergency.
    Made first car show yesterday in a year, glad it back on road.
     

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  10. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    glad you found it...:Handshake:
    electrical problems are the worst for me.
     
  11. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    :thumbs2: Glad you found it.

    Plug wire failure doesn't often enough to be at forefront of ignition troubleshooting. Back in day better garages, dealer etc had ignition analyzers(scope) that quickly pinpointed weak plug wires.

    When I bought my Fairlane I knew it wasn't running right, but there was little doubt the offshore knockoff Motorcraft carb was at fault. Turned out to be missing one of the venturi vacuum plugs, basically ran on four cylinders(actually 3½). After swapping the original carb from Comet, ran so much better but still had a occasional pop in the exhaust. Yup bad plug wire. One of the snake pit, snazzy red Champion plug wires had high resistance, other seven fine. Bad wire was on #6 cylinder, fed by passenger side venturi that worked OK.

    my69fair19.jpg
     

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