SN95 Mustang Radiator Install - A Long Time Coming

Well. Life gets busy. It's been a couple years since I built the engine and transmission for the 'ol '72, and it's seen less miles than the treadmill in the basement. The 3 row champion radiator and spal fan just weren't enough for the stroked 351 windsor. And yes, as much as I love the 351w, I regret disregarding all advice of sticking with a 302 based motor. Unless you go with a mustang II or strut based front suspension, it's not worth the headache. Well... maybe it is... it has been a fun challenge, or maybe i'm just a bit masochistic.

Anyway, here's how I fit a crossflow 3 row SN95 mustang radiator into a maverick.

 

So I picked up a $190 "3 ROW Radiator+Shroud Fan+Relay For 1994-1996 Ford Mustang V6 V8 3.8L 5.0L AT/MT" off of ebay. Cut off all the brackets and had the filler necked welded off by a friend of a friend. We will be using a inline radiator cap on the upper radiator hose, functions just the same. The radiator is just about as wide as the frame rails, but the core support is recessed back towards the motor. To get the radiator as close to the core support, and to improve airflow (as the opening in the core support is only as wide as the stock radiator) it must be cut out. I didn't really take any measurements when cutting, just eyeballed what looked good. I may take measurements later if this gets enough traction. Some spots were difficult to cut, a mix of a grinder, angle grinder, hacksaw, and jigsaw got the job done. Removing the front bumper and lower valance would make this job much easier. I purposely left the passthrough for the front support lights, thus the angled cut on the driver's lower side. And to retain some rigidity of the core support on the top and bottom cuts I retained the "C" shape, meaning I didn't just cut across the face of the core support. Hope that makes sense.

 

Now that the radiator fits, and sits as flush with the core support as it can I made some brackets. Pretty simple as you can see in the photos. Just some 16 gauge steel, cut, bent, and welded on. Is a bit crucial to get the width of the bracket to fit snugly against the radiator to prevent movement. I did apply paint, and a pad of very thin rubber (~0.04" meant for like pipe gaskets). The brackets do overhang the frame rails a 3/8" or so, just to increase contact area with the rad. From there I made some very simple angled brackets to attach the top of the radiator to the core support. Easy peasy, maybe don't drill the holes just yet for them, or you could move the radiator as far driver's side as possible to make room for the battery. Also made a bracket for the transmission cooler (opted to not run the fan for the moment, but it does fit), these self-clinching studs are awesome.

 

Now we're cookin'. Halfway there. Radiators in place, time for the battery. I used a group 26 battery. I wasn't sure just yet what battery would work, so I made the battery tray as large as possible. I reused the L-shaped portion of the old tray. Cut and bent a portion of it. Fits well. Don't mind the rust... Bent up a simple battery tray, and attempted to use the dollar store beadroller. Welded up, drilled a drain hole, and thick paint makes her what she ain't. I don't recall the full dimensions of the tray, can get them if anyone wants. A bolt going through the tray part to the inner fender (the part of my car that's missing) would be ideal. Don't mind the mess of wires... Someday I'll rewire the car and have the battery in the trunk.

 

Now's the easiest part... well... easy for you because I've already done the leg work and purchasing and returning of a couple dozen radiator hoses. I used a Gates 26611 for the lower hose. Then for the upper hose(s), half is a gates 21736 (works well with stock rad too, and serpentine belt a/c system), and other half is from a simple 90 bend, something like a Gates 22151. The lower hose fits really well, but it is ribbed, which hinders coolant flow in theory. Maybe someday I'll find a hose that works, or go with an AutoPlumb or similar system. Much like the lower hose, the upper isn't perfect. Not much clearance from the tensioner, and as this is a 351w, this configuration may not work with the narrower deck of a 302 as it may put the tensioner into the hose.

 

Winner winner chicken dinner, a year in the making and we're done. Doesn't overheat at idle and the fans cycle on/off at idle. Although it was only 45F out and I didn't have a chance to drive it I do have high hopes.

Few notes:

- As you can see in the photos the top of the radiator has 90 degree corners, if I were to do it again I would make those corners 45 degrees to flow with the core support. There's still about a half inch from the radiator and the hood as is though, just doesn't look factory.

- I would like to install a coolant reservoir at some point.

- You could use one of those small batteries intended for drag/stock cars, but I wanted something available at most auto parts stores, hence the group 26 battery.

- The 3 row champion rad and serpentine belt setup requried me to grind off the tip of the water pump pulley "centering pin"/shaft. Now I have clearance for days due to the location of the fans, and the radiator being mounted more foreward due to cutting the core support.

- Don't put a 351w in a stock mav.

- Feel free to ask any questions.

Thanks for reading

 

'sure appreciate the post's technical data of parts and methods and the encouragement ...
.

'nice job on the frequent rotted battery tray area
( )

w/mechanical fan, rad moved down and slanted - forward

. . . .



hav e fun


.

 

Pretty much what I had to do to get my Griffen cross flow radiator and Taurus fan in. The radiator only has about 1/2" to the frame rails on either side. The Taurus fan was too close to the water pump pulley for comfort so I slotted the motor mount bolt holes and slid the motor back another 3/8". I have the coolant reservoir inside the fender just behind the plastic cover for the headlight. Tube goes through the apron to the radiator.

 

How many cooling fan units are you running?

 

Thank you. Yours looks very well done. I especially like that you could maintain the mechanical fan, they're so much better than any electric fan.

 

I was going to go the taurus fan route, but they're such a tight fit, and my rings are gapped for boost, someday I'll find a used supercharger. I'm going to have to steal your idea for the overflow bottle location. There would be room on the driver's side inner fender for a small reservoir, but I've got an auxiliary fuse box there for the fans, fuel pump, ignition system, etc.

 

They are two 10" fans. They take a second to spin up, and move a ton of air, on par with the one that came with the derale transmission cooler. But it is a cheap ebay unit, so if they give me troubles I'll replace them with some SPAL units.

This is the radiator that I had purchased: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255571103310

Fair warning, there was a 1/4" crack in one of the welds on a bracket that I ended up removing. They were willing to replace it for me free of charge, but I just settled for $30 back. I've used them a few times before, have one that's going on 7 years now. Overall the welds are okay, looks just like they do in the listing's photos.

Edit: I did not use their relay wiring kit, I would suggest testing the sensor at the very least and getting a oem/siemens relay, and a bussman fuses, just get them from a junkyard or your neighbor's car. I don't trust off-brand fuses/relays, not worth the risk.

 

Huh?

 

...
"driver's side inner fender for a small reservoir, but I've got an auxiliary fuse box there for the fans, fuel pump, ignition system, etc...."

gets busy on the fender apron , Fuel Pump, Horn, and Fan Relays then fuel supply etc, did move horn to grill side ...



... has sensor in thermostat and clearance for large Perma-Cool as a pusher for boost rise.

 

They're simple, reliable, and move more air than most electric fans will. I know they don't work for every vehicle, but when I can I like to leave them.