I think there's something wrong with new grille sport lights

It seems the new lamp harnesses have no way to connect to the car's connectors. these are from Autokrafters.






The first 2 pictures show the lamp harness comes with some adapter. I figured I didn't need that because obviously I need a connector with 3 pins. why it's there to begin with I have no idea. Problem is the new connector will not fit into the car's.
Pic 3 shows that the adapter wire will, but that cannot be right and no surprise the light does not light up.
I do not have old connectors because everything was wired straight with electrical tape. It was bad.

 

I might be wrong but I think one is for sport lamps (hot and ground) and the other is for turn signals (2 hots and one ground).

 

I'm confused. Anyone have a picture for reference?

 

Does your car have turn signals under the bumper or does it flash the grill lights? My lights have two hot wires going to it and the socket is for an 1157 dual-filament lamp. Ground is through the case to the radiator support. Take the bulb out and see if there are two contacts on the base.

 

Only One side was flashing before I ripped it all out, and those would be the lower yellow lights. Those are fine.
I ended up having to shave down the damn new connectors with a razor blade all the way around tonight. Even then I had to force it. After Autokrafters tech got back to me, I informed him of the issue and promptly ignored it.
This is the second new item that did not fit my car. The first one was the bezel nut for the Grabber sport mirrors.

 

All done and now the headlights and dash lights keep fading in and out. Switch makes a low pitch ping when it does. I had the fender and bumper lights and now they're gone. Just got done with the new fender light repair harnesses. This is without the car running.
FFS

 

Circuit breaker inside switch is tripping, indicates overload/something shorted or mis-wired.

 

i thought that something was wrong too, so I disconnected nearly every light wire and bulb yesterday: the new housings, the new marker lights, headlights, license plate light, tail lights, quarter panel lights and same crap. sounding to me like the switch is bad now.

 

I'm at a total loss here and do not want to have to farm this out. I put a new headlight switch in and the problem persists. I do notice it starts in the park light position, not even with the knob all the way out. I am not sure how else to diagnose this. I've already pulled the bulbs to the fender lights and disconnected the sport lamp connectors.

I also have no idea how the headlight springs are supposed to go in. I wasted a ton of time already and I cannot reference the other side because that side is loose too. I was hoping to be done with this by now to move onto something else I have.. Help

 

If the light switch internal circuit breaker is still tripping you must have a pinched wire somewhere shorting to ground. Here's how the switch is connected. If you have an ohmmeter check the resistances between ground and contacts I, P, & R of the connector that plugs onto the switch. A low resistance could show where your problem is.

 

Ok Daniel here is what i have found.
I is good slight resistance
There is no 'P' wire in my connector
R is good slight resistance (brown wires)
.6 voltage drop on D2.
The battery feed connector was nearly pulled out from the wire. It was stripped too far. I disconnected it from the bulkhead connector, recrimped and inserted it back in and tried again. Same problem.
Something tells me it's because I have no 'P' wire attached.

Also still need a picture of the headlight bucket installed while I'm in the middle of this if anyone has one.

 

After 1967, the P connection isn't used. Provides park only, dead with headlights on.

Did you try operating switch with bulkhead connector disconnected (sorry if you've mentioned that)

 

yes [now] both of them that I have function just fine mechanically

 

Maverick HL switch, with colors.

 

K thanks Krazy now we're getting somewhere. I don't even have brake lights anymore after all this.
SO this is what I found
It looks like the 2 brown wires coming off the switch are CUT!! This poor car.
I looked at the main wiring diagram I have and it shows that 1 lead off the switch goes to a connector? I can't find that. And then the other lead goes to the fuse box? Is that right? If so I winder which circuit on the box.
Also if you'll notice in the picture there's also a ground wire coming off a bracket that is also cut. I think when I was looking at the diagram it went to a washer motor?
Anyway I could use some more help.
Thanks guys.