For drivers, I have heard that folks up north just coat the bottom of the car with heavy (thick) grease. I wonder how this works in stopping rust? I live literally in sight of the Gulf of Mexico and the salt air is just crazy strong. I think the dew even has salt in it. My son's car came from 20 years in a driveway a few miles inland (about 5-6 miles), and now after being moved to my house for 2 mos it is exhibiting blinding fast rust accumulation. Ideas for real world cars? Dave
YES! Not to Franks thread ..... but in the 70's we used to take the drain oil and spray down the bottom side of all the trucks. (park it off on the side in the gravel and let it drip off awhile. It would coat everything and soak into any rust that was starting. It really did smell for a few days (specially in the heat of summer) but it was a great anti-rust and was a good way (in the 70's remember) to get rid of the old drain oil. We also used the drain oil to keep the dust down on the gravel driveway and around the gas pumps. We had a 55 gallon drum that attached to the 3 point hitch on a Ford 8N tractor. On the bottom of the drum was a pipe with holes in it and a valve to open up the pipe to the drum. When the drum was full of oil, we would just drive around and spread the oil into the gravel. Trying doing that today and see what people say!
Believe it or not heavy grease will stop rust. I own a blast shop and see good metal under grease everyday. I used to go trail driving alot and would coat my bronco underneath with WD 40. The only downside is whether the paint is solvent or grease resistant. I rely on the members on this board for their experience with cars. I rely on my own experience with paint removal & my experience painting industrial parts. The weak links tend to be in suface preparation ie suface profile and chemical reactions. I no longer trust primers with the exception of self-etching primers for anything other than color sanded finishes. I blasted my greasy rear end, uh I mean a greasy rear end housing. It took about 15 minutes to blast grease off. Metal underneath the grease was best. Then I washed it down with water so it would flash rust a little. Since I'm a POR-15 dealer I sprayed some thick, then I chose to top coat it with one of the hardnose paints. Now I use POR-15 as a primer. Nearly all top coat paints stick to POR-15 real well if it's still tacky. However it was still too thick and too wet. Needless to say I had a mess. No problem, once it dried I blasted it back off, however it took 45 minutes to get this stuff off. Lesson learned. This is tough sh*t! Second lesson learned is.... it doesn't matter if you use Rust Encapsulator, Rust Bullet or POR-15, these products are worth the money. I don't like rust convertors. They don't work that well or as well as they claim.
