I ordered the gun on Thursday early in the morning before I went to work and it was sitting on my pourch yesterday when I got home from work. Pretty fast service, although the extra tip was not in the package. I'll have to check on that.
I thought I'd dig up this thread from last year because I finally used the new gun. Although I really did not notice any difference in the over spray, I thought there would be much less, the gun its self worked beautifully. I bought the regulator that mounts on the gun with a gauge and was surprised how much pressure drop there is in a 25ft air hose. Could be the reason I never got my other HVLP gun to act right. Anyway, for what its worth, I recommend this gun to anyone looking.
Well it seems this thread has alot of people puttin the cart before the horse.Remember what hvlp means High volume [Air consumption] low pressure.Sure you can spray at 35psi with little overspray but you need 13cfm to run it.To paint a complete car [with good resaults] you will need at least a 5 hp 60 gallon compressor anything less and you will drain a small compressor quick.Just something i found out the hard way. Derek.
question for all ya paint guys, just got compressor! my boss did all the body work, very kewl first painting experience, got to use the gravity feed gun that I bought from harbor freight a couple of years ago, the first attempt we got alot of runout on the paint, the 2nd time around and so forth was real good, we were shooting the gun like maybe 50-60 p.s.i. which the directions said on the gun's manual, overall real good experience, it turned out okay, he just wanted to shoot the paint on so he could sell the truck, we shot maybe like 8 coats, this was a 78 chevy silverado, the upper sides and back of the window parts got a real nice shine and looked real smooth but was not able to get the quarters as smooth, there was alot of paint stripping before hand, not for sure if that gave that cheap look... we did buy from sherwin williams the acrylic enamel, he did not want to buy the clear coat because it was double the price, we were told by the paint person at sherwin williams which seemed pretty knowledgable, been there 18 years that the enamel can be just as shiny as the clear coat... I was happy with the finish because it was our first time doing it but for the next time, I'd like to be able to do it right, the gun did really well I thought, sprayed real smooth, the lil dayton girl kept up with the gun! I can't figure out if we didn't spray enough paint on those quarters?? Or maybe if the paint was just that ol sayin ya get what ya pay for type thing, or maybe the body work wasn't done right... it was shiny, could see ourselves through the paint up close, not a really clear clear of ourselves like the upper portion of the truck but if you looked at an angle you could see imperfections in the paint (almost looked like a shiny primer, that's the best I can describe the picture for ya, my boss painted one side and I painted the other side, he painted individual portions while I sprayed throughout the whole side, both sides looked pretty good but it seemed to work better in my opinion with goin throughout an entire stroke, is it better to paint one entire side or is portions okay too? Just thought I'd share my first painting experience with you guys and get some knowledge from this for the next 100 paint jobs! Oh yeah, forgot to add, for those guys that haven't ever painted before, be sure to wear a mask!!!!!!! We were the poor souls that were stupid enough to not wear ones for that time, so learn from that mistake I made
In my opinion most paint jobs are lost in the actual mixing of the paint and reducers. You have to know how to react to what the weather is doing outside. Only way to learn that is experience,,just turns out that you trust your gut. Usually takes me 6 hours to paint a car, base/clear. Single stage paints usually take me bout 2 hours. To get an even paint job without dry lines,, you have to learn and trust your burn in skills, or paint overlap. And that all depends on gun pressure, paint mix, gun distance from surface and what brand of paint you are using. To really learn, and I know materials cost plenty,, practice painting old fenders and stuff like that,, that is how I learned. Make a fender perfect out of a gun and you can lend that knowledge to the car. I do break the car up into sections. I start at the rear bottom of a qtr panel, work my way forward to the front of the front fender, then go back and burn in the shine. When I get both sides done I do the roof, then the deck lid and then the hood last. Reason I do the hood last? It is usually the largest flat surface and all the junk in the air falls on it, makes it easier to sand and polish later on. Then I go outside, let the paint flash for at least 20 minutes and go back in and make another pass. Here in the midwest the weather changes every 20 minutes so I never mix up too much paint at one time. Gives me the option of changing the mix to meet the day in its barometer changes. I usually make 3 passes with color and up to 4 passes with clear. Single stage paints I usually make 3 passes and I make the last one wet. Class dismissed. Dan
Thanks Dan! I've actually got an old messed up fender that could use and do have a little extra paint from the paint we did use, so that will be helpful
One thing about gun pressure is to put a gauge on the gun. 25ft of 3/8 air hose can drop at least 20 lbs of pressure before it gets to the gun. You dial 45 at the regulator on the wall and it will be much less at the gun.
I have painted many cars and you guys must have too,because i coulden't have explaind it better myself.I wish i had this kind of info when i started spraying.
