Hey Scoop A good friend of mine is in the middle of restoring a '72 C10. He is doing the painting himself in his garage. He's got an HVLP and mask. He hung plastic on all the walls and tacked some to the ceiling. Everything was covered in plastic. Then he built to boxes to hold fans. One is about the size of 1 garage door panel so he can open the door a little and use it as an intake. The other covers the side door on the garage and is used as exhaust. He built a tray in both of these boxes to hold air filters (like household HVAC filters). I was a little skeptical at first, but when I saw the results I was impressed. He didn't get paint on anything outside the "spray booth". Also, he didn't breath anything since he wore a mask. I will probably try this someday since he had such great results. His paint is coming out great. He's using automotive paint though (single stage non-metallic). Just an idea on a temporary paint booth.
kinda like this??? This is how I did my epoxy primered fenders. It was short enough that I had to pretty much do it on my knees or hunched over. Slits cut in the back for air intake, then fan with a/c filter attached to blow out air and catch overspray. Lighting wasn't very good and I found errors after I was done, but overall, a positive experience. Until I found out that you need a fresh air respirator for Epoxy paints, and no mask will cut it. Potentially leading to PERMANENT LUNG DAMAGE Still, the three of us were wandering around the house, bumping into walls for a few days...That epoxy smells WONDERFUL and packs a pretty good buzz... Glad nobody got hurt from the fumes...
roller painting is going to leave texture from the roller material (IE.. like on a wall in your house) HVLP or conventional is the way to go. keep your garage floor wet, and it will keep dust down. yes you will have spraying dust, but if you use HVLP it will keep your spray dust to a minimum. if you have a small entry door going outside, leave it open and put a fan in front of it, blowing OUT, and it will draw the over spray dust out of the garage. or keep your garage door open about 2 feet, and place a couple box fans under the door blowing OUT pearl goes in your clear metallic goes in the paint not advised using both a metallic and a pearl in the same paint job. just make sure Anna's new mustang and your truck are not near your house, and best time to paint, is at night in texas.. you want the temps down in the 70-80s and the humidity under 65% PREFERABLY... call me if you have questions scott.
Kind of. He covered the ceiling and floor with plastic and the hung plastic from the walls. It essentially made a full sized room. He sealed all the corners with tape (except for the entry) and used the fan boxes with filters for the intake and exhaust. The exhaust filtered the paint out so he didn't have to worry about paint dust getting on neighbors cars.
This is a fact. Automotive paint WILL NOT STICK GOOD OVER RUSTOLEUM IT WILL PEEL AND BLISTER! I know from experience...You will have to take it down to BARE METAL when you get ready for a decent automotive paint job if you use Rustoleum on it first, including their primers. Stay with automotive paint and you won't have any problems... Very good advice. White is a good base coat for any color. You can leave it white untill you get ready to do the bodywork, and then use a black or dark shade over it as a guide coat for sanding. Any high spots will immediately get down to the white, while any low spots will remain black.... Simon knows what he is talking about. If it were me, I'd get the cheapest single stage white automotive enamel I could find, and put about two or three coats on it, and drive it untill you get ready to really go for the high buck bodywork and paint. Heck, If you don't feel comfortable doing it at home, Maaco or some of the other paint places run specials all the time. Since you are not looking for a show car finish right now, their el cheapo paint jobs would do what you want, get it all one color and keep it from rusting more....
The maaco is sounding better all the time. I see $300 specials from time to time, and I might take them up on one. More than getting it all one color, I am concerned with the spots that are covered with only bondo or primer, and some rust is starting to peek through. I know there is more under there, so I need to fix that and seal it up.
Macco is not a bad idea. I had a 79 t-bird, could not afford a proper paint at the time so I did all the work and had macco spray it. Came out pretty nice. If you have several maccos around, check them all out! One was so-so and the other had lots more pride! Remember price is for shooting only! If you want them to do anything else they charge a pretty penny for extra work!
Is price for "shooting only" or does that also include masking and prep? I would assume they would do the masking and shooting for the offered price. Talked to my wife today on the way home from the beach and she is more excited about the Maaco version of these plans.
i belive the macco price includes prep.. but i think the idea is that they dont do a great job maskin, so it may be best to either do ur own maskin, or just take off wat u dont want overspray/paint on also, i dont know about thier reputation compared to maaco, but earl shieb also does inexpensive paintjobs
do a search on Maaco.....I remember this being talked about before. Someone mentioned that it is best for you to remove everything you can before you take it.....seem to recall them saying that all they do is tape over everything. The more prep work you do....the better the $300 paint job will be!
I am by know means an expert but I use an HVLP and you still get overspray and quite a bit of it. Now you might be able to turn it down far enough for a solid color but I would think it would almost be spitting it out in a texture much like a roller. One of you pros correct me if I'm wrong. I know to shoot metallics I have to turn up the pressure a little more to keep it from tiger striping and keeping a nice uniform look.
