rear axle center section

Discussion in 'Technical' started by newtoford, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    if you have a ...2:79..now...a 3:00.. will make a pretty big diff....it did in my '77 250..:yup:

    note...don't forget about the...lube. in the rear end...once you get a smell of it you will know why they call it a ...rear end...:yup:

    ...:Handshake...
     
  2. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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  3. newtoford

    newtoford Member

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    wow, doesnt even sound like that serious of an engine either


    i guess i'll just put the 3.0 in and build off the 2.79 in the mean time
     
  4. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    oops...I misquoted the gear size...
     
  5. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    If it's not built to rev on par with the gears, it will drive like a dumptruck!

    I know from experience.
    I put a 351 (BONE STOCK) in a car with 4.11 gears.
    I figured it would be a decent combo... gears couldn't hurt anything.
    Wrong!
    It was a Mav, but it felt like a U-Haul truck.
    I would have to shift what seemed like every ten feet.
    I bet that Mav could have pulled a tree down.
     
  6. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    That is what the guy above said later in the thread. It runs same mph and ET as my car did last time i took it to the track, but got to top speed very quickly, and ran across the line at top speed of like 70mph...
     
  7. MarulMav

    MarulMav Member

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    When I did mine it did need a little persuasion, but instead of a puller I placed the brake drum on backwards and was able to hand yank it that way.

     
  8. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    i figure he would take the drums off to get at the axles. i was really talking about the center section with the BFH:)
     
  9. MarulMav

    MarulMav Member

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    oops!:footinmouth:

     
  10. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    no problem. i should have mentioned about the drums and turning the drum around to remove the axle like a slide hammer.:)
     
  11. newtoford

    newtoford Member

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    thanks for the advice guys. really aperciate it as always
     
  12. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    I would have to agree with Don...the center section is a major b!tch if it still has the original washers on it. They get squished into the threads of the studs, and usually need an air hammer to get them off.

    Which is NOT a good thing since you don't want to bung up the faces too much...

    I beat the crap out of mine and finally found that if I hit it lightly all around the faces with the air hammer, it started to pop loose (ie, the differential oil splashed out onto my face...:vomito:)
     
  13. mav76302

    mav76302 Member

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    Yeah I found out the washers make it hard to remove also. I couldn't see them through the grime.
     
  14. actionrpm

    actionrpm Differential specialist

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    Couple comments from the rearend guy.., .1 difference in ratio equals about 75-100 rpm,thats without an overdrive and a "standard" size tire(27-29)in high gear,4.11 is usually about 3000 rpm at 55 mph,a 4.00 would be about 2900 rpm at 55..OK?For you guys with 8" that like to scrounge around junkyards,look for V-6 Bobcat or V-6 Must.II,they are rare but most are 3.44 ratio,good street gear,most of the V-8 Must.II Cobras were posi,and look for early 61-65 Econoline 8" with the 144 6cyl.some of them were 4.11.8".Last "trick"if you don't like fooling with the brass washers on the pig,wack the stud and it will fall inside housing,you won't hurt the threads as the first 1/4 inch has none,punch bottom one out first to drain,when ready to reinstall tap studs in from inside put a couple washers on with nut and draw them back in tight,stick "pig in tighten good.Jack
     
  15. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Good idea on whacking the studs in...:thumbs2:
     

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