I have 1977 Mercury Comet and it has a 4.1 liter 6-cylinder engine(also it has a carburetor just in case that might be of any help). Since I have had it(not that long) it has been running for about 20 minutes(on average) before it stalls out(it does "sputter" sometimes but most times it feels like its not getting gas or your just letting it roll). Also once it stalls you can't give it gas; the only thing you can do is turn it off and let it sit for At Least 5 minutes. Then you turn it on and have to let it sit for a few minutes or it will die immediately. After letting it sit and going again it dies anywhere from 5-20 minutes later. Although many times it is after giving the car gas after being at a stop sign etc. that is not always the case because it can stall while driving normally and not stopping. One day it didn't start so I had the fuel pump replaced(3 days ago) and now it starts up but it is still having the same problem. Can anyone help me figure out what it is. Also just for some more information I did a tune up including plugs, rotor, cap, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, have all new transmission lines. I don't know if I forgot anything but if you need more information let me know. P.S. I think it might be something to with one of these but i don't know; coil, vapor locking, filter in gas tank?, exhaust(before I got it it was broken and the people before me just straight piped it, but I don't think the exhaust would be the main problem?), coil possibly?.
First thing I would do is remove the air cleaner. Once it stalls, (TURN THE KEY OFF) look down the carb and pump the throttle full a couple of times. You should see a nice stream of gas shoot down the bore. If not, you have a fuel problem. Most likely you are sucking air. There is a section of rubber fuel line back at the tank, up under the drivers door, and at the fuel pump. Replace them with new clamps.
Hbomb; I had a '77 that did the same thing. It was the DuraSpark ignition box. They had an overheating problem, frying the components. I think the box is available. Try the carb and the usual suspects, and if all fails, try the box. Mine would just quit, no sputter, nothing, and most of the time at 70mhp on the freeway! Good luck!
Yep, that was the way for me. Funny thing was, this was back in 79, all I had to do was take dist. cap off, say hi to rotor, put cap back on an car would start! New box took care of all. Under warranty, back then Ford only had the box an retail was like high 300 to 500 bucks! Now under $20
I agree with Earl on the ignition module. Either that or the pickup doodad inside the distributor. The module is more common to go bad then the distributor doodad though. Wouldn't hurt to replace the rubber fuel lines like Dennis said, regardless, since they are likely 30 years old...
I bought a new ignition box for $30 at Napa and changed them out today. Unfortunately the car won't start today(it is an extremely cold day) and the battery is most likely drained so tomorrow(hopefully) we will find out if that solved it or not. I plan to try what Mavaholic said tomorrow also and am going to replace rubber fuel lines because I got a feeling that they aren't in to good of a shape at the moment either.
So I replaced the ignition box and still didn't start. After I thought it may have been the battery which turned out to not be taking a charge so we got a new battery thats a little stronger. After that I bought a clear inline fuel filter to help diagnose the problem and it seems that not enough fuel is getting to the carb. So I think it most likely is the fuel lines because the car sat for a long time. Anyone have any ideas?
Try starting it using a gas can and short hose to the pump. If that works, then you can run new tubing and hoses. If it still doesn't start then you know it is not a fuel problem.
I thought there might be a better way to say what I was thinking and then POOF! If the pump and carb work then it almost has to be the hoses and tubing that is blocking the fuel to the carb. It should run if the hoses and tubing between the tank and pump are replaced IF the pump and carb work. A process of elimination is better than replacing parts first. OK?
Don't forget the "sock" that is on the pick-up tube in the tank can get all full of crud and rust on a car that sits a long time too. Cleaver
fire Well, I am finally back from vacation, Happy Holidays everyone. It turns out that there was water and dirt and sand in the gas tank. So I had a garage let it all thaw, clean it out and then the car started right up. When they gave it back to me it ran perfect and I even took it to my fathers which is 2 and half hours away without a problem. I had been driving it fine since the 22nd but last night something happened. Brace yourself. I just got off work, walked to my car, started it up and it started but then sputtered and died. I waited a minute or two and tried again. I started it up and then after about a minute of letting it warm up I saw smoke coming out from the hood and the paint bubbling. Turned off the car and called the fire department. They said it was centralized over the carb and air filter. Luckily the damage is repairable but none the less this is not good. I don't know if it was the car, something I did or if one of the garages is to blame. Has anyone ever heard of this happening or can give me a little insight? If you need any information on what has been repaired etc. since I've had it let me know. I just thought I would share that story with you.
disconnect the fuel lines at the carb and at the tank. drain the gas tank into a container so see what the gas looks like.. get an air compressor and blow from the carb to the rear of car with the line disconnected from the tank and put the line into another container, to catch the debris. remove and replace the inline fuel filter, if eqiuped. once you clear out the lines coimpletely, replace the rubber fuel lines, and connect it all back up.. this will eliminate the fuel line issues. it also could be the fuel pump, even though you replaced it, doesnt mean it isnt still defective.
I am going to have to replace the carb because there is not way it is going to work again. I have been thinking about why it caught and if the butterfly on carb. got stuck could that have been why? Also does anyone know where I can get a used carb. and for how much. Any help would be greatly appreciated right now. I am working on what stmaster said right now.
