Fiberglass Doors

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by Beerstoreguy, Jan 15, 2008.

  1. Beerstoreguy

    Beerstoreguy Member

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    Who's got'em, do you like or want them, who makes them, any fitment problems?
     
  2. wero

    wero Member

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  3. newtoford

    newtoford Member

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    is this for a driver or a strip car?

    i doubt theres anything out there thats going to let you retain the stock locks, handle and glass assemblies
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2008
  4. wagesofsin

    wagesofsin Official Lurkologist

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  5. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    i wouldnt use fiberglass doors on a street car.. i dont think it is legal,
     
  6. mavman

    mavman Member

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    glass doors are for drag cars only. They are lightweight (and flimsy) and can't provide ANY protection. They come with no windows, no hardware, no holes, no brackets, locks, nothing...You have to put all that on by yourself. They ain't easy but a HUGE weight savings compared to stock steel doors. I'd say 25-50 lbs per side lighter.
     
  7. Beerstoreguy

    Beerstoreguy Member

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    Pro-Street style, not a daily driver, have cage! Weight loss 250lbs. easy.
     
  8. mavman

    mavman Member

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    250 lbs is a stretch. 100-150 at the most. Remember, the 'glass doors themselves arent heavy but once you put the hinges on, the latch, handle, a window of some sort and then paint it...they aren't as light as you'd think.
     
  9. wagesofsin

    wagesofsin Official Lurkologist

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    i have the glass doors i listed the link to. i would NEVER utilise them on any vehicle motored down the road.. period. i have a spare set of steel "driver " doors for toolin' around should i desire to. the fit and finish was not bad, as with any "glass' part, theres work to be done. unless your handy, or have lots of scratch i dont recommend usin em, unless weight savings is a must. and your not gonna save 250 #. the glass doors weigh approx. 34 # ea. with the lexan , and latch. ill have to weigh the steel ones. additionally, if you do actually go this route, lexan aint very resistant to scratching , and glass dont like dings, so...it could be costly maintenance wise in the long run. just my .02 cents
     
  10. Beerstoreguy

    Beerstoreguy Member

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    Thanks for all the info and the links, man those steel doors weigh a ton!
    The skin on my drivers door is flapping in the breeze, it's rusted all the way accross the botom.

    Wage that avitar kills me!!:biglaugh:
     
  11. stmanser

    stmanser Looking for a Maverick

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    i saw a thread about someone doing a front disc conversion. they bought racing weight calipers and disks.. 80-100 less
    ... then get the doors replaced..50-80 pounds less

    and the hood replaced..40-60 pounds less..

    that will out you near your 250 pounds reduction..
     
  12. Grabber-1

    Grabber-1 Member

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    I don't know about the hood...I don't think it even weighs 60#'s
     
  13. tbirdz12

    tbirdz12 Member

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    Just weighed my hood - 40.2 lbs
    Glad the wife didnt come home as i had the new bathroom digital scales out in the garage weighing old car parts.
    Heres some other stuff I weighed. Most from my 75
    front bumper chrome = 30
    front bumper reinforcment = 32
    valance = 5
    Battery = 40
    A/c = 55
    Smog=26
    P/S=25
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    Iron Heads=96 (65 289)
    Iron Intake=40
    Iron WaterPump=14.6
    Iron Ex. manifolds=28.2 for both
    Stock valve covers=4.2 for both


    New stuff :
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    Alum Air Gap intake=19
    2 Hooker Muffs=29
    Ford Racing Al. Valve covers=6.4
    Caltrac Bars=25
    Alum water pump=6
    Hooker supercomp coated header=25.5 for both
    Trunk Battery locate kit=8
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    Last edited: Feb 10, 2008
  14. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    So Simon. Should we tell all those Corvette guys that their fiberglass doors are illegal? Plus all those kit cars?:biglaugh:J/K
     
  15. mavman

    mavman Member

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    I did all 4 brakes (aerospace) and lost 110 lbs. 'Glass hood (mine..butchered up but fairly light for a glass hood) is 9 lbs with the scoop. Stock one was about 38-40. stock 9" ford "pig" is about 70 lbs. Aluminum one is about 45-50. Don't forget about the motor either! If you have a standard transmission, aluminum flywheels can be 10-15 lbs saved, damper 2-5 lbs. Aluminum heads 40-50. Aluminum intake 10-20 (351's are bigger and have heavier intakes--and the weight difference iron vs. aluminum is more significant). Pistons, rods, lightened crank, ti valves, rockers. Doors (of course...) are an excellent and substantial weight loss. Fenders as well-but the fenders are not a really big difference. I'd say 10-20 lbs lighter vs steel (pair). Bumpers--HUGE difference. VFN front bumper (big bumper) is 4 lbs, 9 lbs ship weight (what I was told). I'm still waiting on mine (front and rear). Deck lid--stocker is about 25 lbs glass is about 10, less if it's a "race weight" hood but they're flimsy. Mine is glass--but built VERY well--it was built back in the '70's to support a functional spoiler. And it IS functional. Mini-starters are lighter than stock starters. Radiator. The list goes on and on.

    The stock doors can be made light if you whip out a hole saw and take out the internals (regulators, support/crash beams) and drop in a lightweight door panel. My doors (well--one of them...) is 31 lbs compared to about 60 for the stocker (with glass). Dash is heavy--aluminum dash saves a ton of weight if you consider the weight of the heater box, ductwork, wiring, controls...etc. Stock seats aren't that heavy but if you do away with the back seat, all the panels along the sides, the front seats and drop in a single aluminum seat and 5 point, you'll save 40-50 lbs.

    It takes some thought on how to remove weight. A lighter car is usually a safer car (and faster) for the most part. Oh, by the way, backhalfing (tubs, ladder/4 link, etc) and aluminum floors can save up to 400 lbs :)
     

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