what 9" rear end will bolt right in a maverick?

what about a 8.8 mustang rear..are they close to the same width
as a maverick??

 

They're much wider. You can cut them down, fit them with 9" style bearing ends and that way get rid of the C clip retainers. You'll also have to remove all the 4 link suspension mounts and weld on spring perches for the leaf springs.

 

What brakes for a bare 9"?

What 9" axle ends do the Explorer brakes fit? I have a chance to pick up a bare housing with "large" ends or if that doesn't pan out, I have access to 70's trucks with 9" axles. Is there a simple (cheap) brake kit that doesn't involve turning and redrilling the truck axles?

Thanks!

Russ

 

The Explorer discs fit the large ford bearing bolt pattern. If you need a 9" housing to narrow, I have two bare housings available $50 each. I can deliver too, I go to Houston 2-3 times a week.

 

I'll keep that in mind, thanks! I'm still undecided on what to build, a 9" or 8.8". I don't like the idea of C-clips, but the 8.8 is so much cheaper to do... When you say "large bearing" (I can't find my d*mn diagram) are you meaning the "late" or "early" style and is there even a difference? I know the flanges "look" different, are the bolt patterns the same? Another negative for doing the 9" is finding axles that can be narrowed (pre '72).

For the 8.8", since I don't have wheels yet I can use the axle as-is (59.5" W) just by moving the perches or spend a bit and have the DR side narrowed and buy an extra PASS axle for it (56.5" W). Decisions, decisions!

What are your housings out of?

Russ

 

One is a 68-72 F100 9", the other was from an 81 Bronco. You really don't want to respline axles anyway. Do it right and buy new ones. But if you want, I have the axles included with both these rears. The F100 had 28 spline, the Bronco axles are 31's. As for cost difference, there is no difference in doing one over the other. I did an Explorer rear for my Ranger, narrowed it to 52" overall (axle to axle) and it cost me about $800 by the time I got done ($100 for the rear--3.73's trac-loc, 31 spline, $500 to narrow with Strange axles and 9" style bearing ends (got rid of the C clips) and another $150 for the Summit rear cover girdle. The 9" I just put under the Comet cost me $150 for the narrowed housing (Ebay) $400 for the axles and bearings, $20 for the spring perches, $150 for the Bronco rear (used the center section from it--3.50's w/trac-loc) Plus new brake shoes, wheel cylinders, steel lines,etc, all that was probably another $100.

 

There were two large bearing housings, one has 1/2" bolt holes, the other has 3/8" holes. The pattern is the same for both I believe. The Explorer brakes use the 3/8 bolts. And if you're thinking on doing an Explorer 8.8, I have a spare set of axles for that too.

 

I bought one of my Mavericks that already had a 9" swap.

When I went to rebuild the brakes, the only thing we could find that matched the existing parts, was a '70(ish) Econoline Van. I couldn't tell if the rear end had been cut down and welded or not.

Anyone have any rear end info on the early 70's Econoline Van that might indicate these are "easy" swaps (ie., no cuts/re-welds)?

 

If it was from an Econoline, the rear was shortened on one side. That used to be a popular rear to narrow as it only required shortening the driver's side, the chunk was offset to the passenger side a good bit, like the Explorer 8.8 is. A buddy of mine had one of these done for a 70 Torino Cobra.

 

I did the axle tube swap on a late 70s 9" out of a family car. weighs 40 LBS more than the 8". Installed 3.70 gears and a Detroit Locker. Cant stop smiling while driving.

 

8" oops

I have to agree that you probably don't require a 9". If you were running open diffs, you probably broke them from doing one tire burn outs. I am not sure what kind of horsepower you are running however,I have a 306 in my comet with aluminum heads, big cam, victor jr. intake., etc, with a 3200rpm stall convertor and I run slicks on my 4.11 geared 8" diff. I did blow one up but only due to my own stupidity. I did not red loctite the main bearing cap bolts as I only had blue and they backed off. I run my car at the track regulary with no more problems. I also have a friend who runs a 78 stang with an 8" and he's in the 11.30's with nitrous. Unless you are going to big cubes I would save my money for other go fast goodies. Just a thought from a guy who doesn't have the bucks for the unnecessary expenses. P.s. Did you know they( 8" and 9") share the same clutches? Just some food for thought.

 

Which 9" has 28 spline?

 

I think quite a few of them.. factory stuff anyway.

 

The 9 inch Versailles rear, in my Maverick, has 28 splines and my 72 Gran Torino Sport had 28 splines. I've used a lot of 9 inch rears out of 70's T-Birds and LTD II's for circle track and all of them had 28 splines.

 

Heavy duty truck 9" rears and big block cars had them (31 spline) I think. Oh and the BOSS 302.