So I think I'm losing my C4, let's talk about options...

Alright, good info as always.

As soon as the part gets here, I will drain it and change the filter. Is there a certain brand of type F you prefer over others? Do you like B&m "Trick Shift" or should I stay away from stuff like that and get the normal type? Trans is not really modified beyond a shift kit and a mild (maybe too mild) stall.

I'll check that kickdown linkage again. I think that's straight but it can't hurt. And the manual linkage. When I adjust the bands again, this time I'll use a torque wrench. I did it by feel last time and I think I got it in the ballpark, but that's no permanent fix. Am I in any danger if it's a little too tight?

Any ideas about that metallic ringing sound I've heard in reverse?

Thanks!

 

hmm.. i just saw something ..

he said he had other symptoms, as in it wont go into gear and the shifter feels sloppy..

i am wondering if your connecting rods from the shifter to the tranny are misaligned. not allowing the gear selector to actually move the rods

check all of your rods from the column to the tranny.. maybe you have a bent rod or bracket somewhere..

 

PaulS covered that:

 

Yeah, I think I've determined the cause of that. The shifter is sloppy 'cause of the shifter itself and nothing to do with the trans. It won't always go all the way into park and stay there. The slot where the lever on the trans goes on the linkage is adjusted all the way out but it seems like it could stand to go a little further, so maybe a rod is bent or otherwise misaligned. I'll try to correct that next time I'm under there.

Soon as I find the column parts I need it's gonna get a Hurst or B&M floor shifter.

 

Trick Shift is just a colored type "F" as far as I know but I don't like paying their prices. Any brand of type"F" is fine they all have to meet the same specifications. The thing about type "F" is that it has less lubricant than others and that is what helps the stock friction materials lock up. If you are running carbon or Kevlar frictions they will burn type "F" to a crisp - not because type "F" is a bad oil but because those friction materials are good at slowing down the drums but they can't stop them. They always slip - even with 250 psi they slip at about 50 rpm. That means that all that pressure is causing friction that is heating the fluid beyond 350 degrees.
Only the new synthetic oils can stand up to that heat for more than a few minutes and for those friction materials I recommend Mercon IV or V.
Synthetic oil in a C4 with standard frictions will slip badly if those oils are used.
Now you have my reasons for type "F" and when it is not appropriate.

 

Alright. I have the tools, the parts, the knowledge and the daylight. Somehow, I also have the time.

And so the surgery begins.

 

Still digging around in there. Taking my time, cleaning things as I go... I just dropped the pan and changed the filter, and I see a tag on the valve body: "F5 2" Anybody know what that's about?

 

Indications thus far are that it's fixed.

PaulS, please PM me an address to send the beer. :Handshake

...Assuming you like beer, of course. I could send boxed wine, too. People around here seem to be pretty fond of that. Your choice!

Thank you.

 

I just hope you enjoy the car for a long time to come. Pay it forward!

 

Sorry for being late. If you have any other problems, my C4 is sitting in my garage. It worked find before I put the 5 spd in. You can have it if you like.

 

I would DEFINITELY love to have a spare! It would also be great if I could look at your 5-speed conversion, get some ideas for the future... Your Comet looks awesome, by the way.

So, when's a good time for me to come get that C4 outta your way?

 

PM sent, call me this weekend

 

Got the message. Dont forget (like PaulS said) pay it forward. That was a d*^n good movie by the way.

 

Indeed it was.

 

It's agreat way of life too! (paying it forward)
Kind of like paying debts before you ever get them. It really helps people be the best they can be.