Need Help- Steering Gear Box 90W oil leak

Discussion in 'Technical' started by gdemopesq, Mar 30, 2008.

  1. gdemopesq

    gdemopesq MOTOR CITY MAV

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    387
    Likes Received:
    22
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    72 Maverick 302
    I have a 72 with a PS steering gear box. It had been leaking for years. I got the pitman arm off and saw there was no steering gear shaft seal. Quick fix...right? Wrong, I put in a new seal and put the pitman arm back in and torqued to 110lbs. It was leaking again. I should say when I took off the pitman arm there was no evidence of a previous seal

    What is the problem? This is what I observe: 1/4 inch gap between top of pitman arm and the seal. This is where the oil is coming from.

    From the bottom going up this is what I see: Nut, lock washer, pitman arm, steering gear shaft seal. What needs to go in to put pressure on the seal from the top of the pitman arm? Is there a bushing or something I need? Can I just put in some large washers?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2002
    Messages:
    26,590
    Likes Received:
    2,937
    Trophy Points:
    978
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    MACON,GA.
    Vehicle:
    '73 Grabber
    ...an option...

    Steering gear mod...
    Frank and I did a mod. on our steering gearbox that might just save you all a real hassle. We put a zerk fitting on the gearbox top plate, and greased up the gear the way it is supposed to be. It is like driving a new car. Here is a description.
    We removed the inspection/adjustment plate. This plate is on top, has the preload adjuster on it, and held on with 3 bolts (see pic). Be sure to run the adjuster down as far as it will go, so the bolts will back out. Run the adj. screw out of the plate. With a 21/64' drill bit, drill the hole between the lower right hand screw and the adj. nut. With a 1/8" tap, tap the hole, and put in a 1/8" zerk fitting. Reinstall the plate, and put as much grease (waterproof, hi pressure and hi temp) as the gear will hold. When full, grease will come out of the vent at the top of the gear. I think this will save your gear if it is new or rebuilt, and can help an old one like mine. Adjust the preload for minimal steering wheel play, and tighten the 5/8" nut to lock the adjustment in. That's it.

    P.M. Earl for pics. if needed...

    Frank...:Handshake
     
  3. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Messages:
    8,091
    Likes Received:
    980
    Trophy Points:
    498
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    GA
    Vehicle:
    '74 Maverick 302 5-Speed.'60 Falcon V8. '63.5 Falcon HT
    You don't suppose to use 90 weight oil or axle grease in a steering box. Use a moly base grease. Any tractor supply shop has what is called corn head grease that is the same as Ford recommends. Here is a good 'How-To' link on greasing up the steering box. http://www.stangerssite.com/lubrication.html
     
  4. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2002
    Messages:
    26,590
    Likes Received:
    2,937
    Trophy Points:
    978
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    MACON,GA.
    Vehicle:
    '73 Grabber
    thanks...:Handshake
    for the link...

    Frank
     
  5. gdemopesq

    gdemopesq MOTOR CITY MAV

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    387
    Likes Received:
    22
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    72 Maverick 302
    I used 90W based on what Chilton's Manual said. I am willing to try anything. What is your schematic from the bottom up? Like I said I have a nut, lock washer, pitman arm, then is the seal next? or some washers? or some bushings? Let me know about the schematic. I will try yhe moly based grease 4 sure
     
  6. Blown74

    Blown74 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2007
    Messages:
    271
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Va
    Vehicle:
    74 302 blown- 68 Shelby Gt 500- 69 Cougar XR7 428 ram air
    seal

    There is no washer between the pitman arm and the bottom of the box. That 1/4 inch space is about right. Are you sure you got the seal in and seated properly? Fit is similar to a rear hub seal, pretty tight fit.
     
  7. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2008
    Messages:
    8,091
    Likes Received:
    980
    Trophy Points:
    498
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    GA
    Vehicle:
    '74 Maverick 302 5-Speed.'60 Falcon V8. '63.5 Falcon HT
    This is the only thing my 65-72 master parts book shows (that I know of) on the Maverick steering box. Like Blown74 stated no need for a washer above the pitman arm. The taperer shaft/hole only allows the arm to fit so close.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. gdemopesq

    gdemopesq MOTOR CITY MAV

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    387
    Likes Received:
    22
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    72 Maverick 302
    Jeff I took your advice. So far so good. Thanks
     
  9. gdemopesq

    gdemopesq MOTOR CITY MAV

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    387
    Likes Received:
    22
    Trophy Points:
    66
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    72 Maverick 302
    Still leaking. I got a 72 Mustang seal which was nothing more than a rubber washer. I found this part. Is that the one you are talking about? I assume the open/female end goes up?

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2009
  10. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

    Joined:
    May 3, 2004
    Messages:
    4,858
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Seattle area
    Vehicle:
    1966 Mustang, 1972, 73, 73 and 73 Mavericks
    Open end toward the oil, and use a bit of bearing mount (lock-tite product) on the OD of the seal and the ID of the bore. That will keep it from going in too far and backing back out. Be sure to put some gear lube on the seal lip before installation.
     
  11. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2002
    Messages:
    18,333
    Likes Received:
    1,381
    Trophy Points:
    878
    Location:
    Albany, Indiana
    Vehicle:
    1972 Maverick Grabber - Color: Orange Also, 1976 Ford Maverick 4-door, 1977 Mercury Comet 2-door.
    These people will be at the All Ford Swap Meet in Columbus, OH this weekend....I would talk to them.

    Rode's Restorations http://www.bright.net/~rodes/
     
  12. Rando76

    Rando76 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2002
    Messages:
    2,659
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    147
    Location:
    Claremore, OK
    Vehicle:
    Collection of Mavericks and Comets
    There have been threads on this in the past.
    The problem with using only grease is that it doesn't fully lubricate the box. Grease won't flow into places that it needs to. I rebuilt my box and when I ordered the seals from a gearbox rebuilder I asked him what they used. He told me that they mix up grease and heavy weight oil to make a "thin grease". He said it wouldn't leak but would still flow enough to get where it needs to. I'm running heavy weight oil in my rebuilt box and haven't had a problem yet. If it does leak, I'll mix up the "thin grease" and use it. I remember someone else on the boards also mentioning using a Lucas additive.
    I can't answer your seal question. Maybe it's the wrong seal? I have the seal number somewhere and can get it if you need it.
     

Share This Page