The engine in my 73 Grabber was in and running in my 74 Grabber for years. So before I installed it in the 73, I thought I'd take it to the machine shop, have it bored and honed, and all around cleaned up, what they did was bore it .030 over, install forged pistons, alignhoned and all new bearings, new rod bolts and bearings, polished the crank,etc.... I re assembled it, used E7TE heads that I had kicking around (ported and polished) along with the same Weiand manifold (port matched) that was on there before, along with the same cam, so to make a long story short it ran like $hit, bottom end was good, but once I got on it, it was crap. I checked the timing over and over, it was always 30-40 degrees advanced, and it didn't matter how much I adjusted the distributor, that did help, along with a few other discoveries along the way.... So I pulled the motor apart and got out the degree wheel, I checked it with the engine out of the car before installation, but I was doing it wrong (no that I've read 10 books on it) I've found that the cam is 5 degrees advanced, everything is happening 5 degrees before it should, I triple check TDC, set the degree wheel up, and did it over and over, still 5 degrees.... Doesn't make sense why the motor ran so well before?? it's the same timing chain, cam, lifters, etc... could it be a combination of the heads and different compression (with the new pistons)??? The timing chain has different key ways on the crank to advance or retard timing, and they go by 2's, so since I'm 5 degrees out, should I retard it by 4 degrees, then that will get me closer? I've talked to a few guys, one says one way, one the other, and when I set the timing chain up again, when and if I put the key way at 4 R, do I line that up with the dot on the cam sprocket? or do I used the "0" still?? (I tried to find the instructions online for the chain, but nothing) Any ideas?
my cam was set up at...4 degrees R... so i guess that makes my motor a "little retarted". ...i don't know nuttin' about degreeing a motor... DFF
I thought I knew, but I didn't, now I've got it, actually not a big deal, just 90% of the information out there doesn't explain it fully.
with every cam and/or timing chain that ive installed, ive never had a problem with it 'advancing' the timing. with the crank sprocket set at '0' (degrees), you should have any advance at all.... or at least that's my understanding but im also in the same boat as Frank, dont know nuttin' about degree wheels
Using the degree wheel install the cam with it runinng "straight-up" Pay no attention to those who think they know which crank keyway is correct. (including me, cause I sure as hell don't know) I've always run every cam straight up and had great results.
But thats the problem, if I set it straight up, it's off from where it should be, when checking it against the cam card.
Im not really following exactly what you've done. But if your cam already has some degree of advance in it, then run it straight up. If you advance it then it will have to much advance (if the cam has 4 degrees and you advance it 4 degrees, thats 8 total degrees) Do you know if it was advanced, retarded or straight up to start with via the timing chain? Also, Id buy a new chain while your at it, depending on how many miles are on it, it could be a lifesaver
It's a new chain, what the problem is, is that there is 5 degrees too much advance with it set straight up (@ 0) the cam should only have 1 degree advance built into it. Somethings wacky, time for a new cam.
My competition cam is advanced also. That confused me so I called them and they said, as usual, lighn everything to "0" or dot to dot. What your doing may be different than anything i've done tho. I've got no experience with a degree wheel.
Might be time for a new cam. Id retard it 2 degrees and see how it runs that way, cuz that would put it back close to where it was maybe....
There not much anyway... comparing to everything else that is. It's the time involved that's a bummer.
Install it the way the cam grinder recommends in that case. Many cams are gound to be advanced 4 degrees when installed straight up (dots aligned on the gears) Or in other words, install it to where the timing events match the cam card, you can do this using the degree wheel. It will then be installed "straight up" no matter what the timing marks tell you.
Dave; check the crank gear. It might have sheared the woodruff key and slipped. That will throw the engine out of time....big time!
Dave, can you go into detail on what the engine was doing when you said it was running like crap when you get on it. Does it run strong up to a certain rpm or does it run rough over a certain rpm range?? what exactly are the symptons. Is the timing figure you gave total timing or initial timing?
just a thought Do the new heads have a higher lift ratio? Mite be starving due to a push rod being under lenth.
