in my 77 mav i put an 8.8 fox body rear end with 3:73's an disc brakes and it's just not stopping very well. i was thinking it maybe the master cyclinder. does it need to be for 4 wheel disc brakes ? i was thinking a mustang m.c. would fit yes/no i found one at cj pony parts http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort
its probably the proportioning(sp?) valve not sending the right amount of pressure to the rear since its designed to be drums ps i dont think the link works
Frank (71gold) is running his 4wheel disc brakes with a stock '73 drum/drum prop valve w/o any issues.... i would first try a $20 master cylinder from your local parts store, and one for your maverick should be just fine IMO
I installed rear disc's from a 95 Lincoln a couple months ago, I kept the same master and valve with no problems. You might want to check the retaining spring on the brake pad to make sure it's on the inside of the caliper bracket. Below is an example of the pad installed wrong.
I am running 4 wheel discs on the drum/disc master/ proportioning valve, no issues, I might change it to a lincoln master over the winter though.
when u installed your's, did you 'clock' the mounting bracket in a different position or just bolted it on? also, did u shim it?
describe the pedal feel? is it rock hard? does it have alot of travel? do you have a power brake booster?
No, just took a sawzall to trim the flange and it bolted up, didn't need a spacer to shim it because the bearing depth on my Mosers axle's made up the difference.
brake issues I think i've found it. I took the car down to the speed shop today an he said i should take the insides of my stock proportioning valve out and use a after market one . does this sound right to any else?:16suspect
i have heard of that being done. i did someting like that on a 5.0 mustang rear disk conversion, but it really didnt seem to make a difference. the most important thing is to have the correct size bore in the master cylinder to match the calipers. that is what determins pedal effort. you still have not described the pedel feel and effort required to stop. does it have alot of travel? does it feel spongy? is it rock hard and doesnt really move much?
Give these guys a call. This the place that several have gotten master cylinders and power brake boosters that fit behind the shock towers. http://www.abspowerbrake.com/index.html Check out the thread. If you order make sure they include the longer studs. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=36934
it feels soft, the pedal go's down about little over half before it gets alittle harder, and you really have to get on it to stop. i jacked the car up in the back. let the wheels spin and hit the brakes they only slowed down they never stop. foot to the floor but they don't stop.
it does sound like air in the system. it could be the porportioning valve but i just kinda doubt it. was your car disc drum car originaly or a drum drum car? i belive that the real difference in the porporting valves is the residual pressure valves wich should have a higher residual pressure than disks need, causing a small amount of drag but no lack of stoping power. Try bleeding the brakes more.
