I need to ask a favor of anyone that would measure something for me. I need a measurement from the center line of the rear end to the front leaf spring eye bolt with the full weight of the car on the ground. I'm in the process of building a 4 link and all of my leaf spring mounts are gone except the front eye bolt holes. I need to know where the centerline of the rear is so I can figure on how long my links can be. Thanks :Handshake Bob
1 more measurement. At stock height, how far is the centerline of the rear from the bottom of the frame rail right above it? Thank again
Mine's a 73 LDO with 200 six. I have my center line of the rear to the center of the front eye bolt at 23 3/4 inch. Mine's not stock height since there are Monroe air shocks installed and it's kicked up no more than 2". The height I've got with it raised those two inches is 8 3/4"
wow, hey Bob! I saw some one on another site that put in some 3" tub extensions and had a 4 link. I'll try to find it again.
I wouldnt go off the springs,If they are weak, then the measurement will be off. I measured my car yesterday for a setback measurement. From the back of the door opening- centerline, I had 23.5 inches. BUT my spring looks weak, and has a helper spring also. You can set the car level, at desired ride height and plot from there. Get your INSTALLED shock mesurements and reverse engineer things to get your settings. Also just measure the wheel well after the car is setting where you want and plot it on the floor AND quarter. Hope this helps. Too bad you werent closer, Id give ya hand.Ive back-halved 4 cars. Give me a call if you need to. Al 989-494-9746
Thanks everyone for the imput. :Handshake Tomorrow I'll measure back from the eye bolt hole and then back from the door opening too and see if the 2 dimensions come out close to one another. I never took any safety measurements before I turned my Maverick into nothing more than a bare shell sitting on roll over stands. I would hate to be off an inch or better and not be able to make up the difference in the heim ends on the links. I also want the bottom links to be as level as possible to begin with.
LEVEL IS EVERYTHING. I cant stress that enough. You have to do that first before anything. If it isn't, your gonna have a piece of junk. Check level EVERY time you work on the car. Weather changes, etc will effect your measurements. That is unless you have a nice insulated and stable building to work in. When my new barn goes up, (whenever that happens) I plan on having a dedicated section in the floor with a DEEP footing for my jig. Just take your time and measure ten times from different directions if ya have to before you cut or weld ANYTHING. If ya get in a habit of measuring for square, (diagonal) every time you measure, i'll be a easy routine. Relax and enjoy your project. It should as much fun building as running it.If it takes 2 hours to mount a tab, who cares.Keep us posted. We plan on the same for ours, once my situations get better. Last nights elections didn't do much for a confidence boost. But thats another subject Regards. Al
I've built quite a few pavement stock cars and I have always started with my lower front a-frames plus my lower rear 3 link arms level at a 4 inch frame ride height. That is the only way I could ever control what front end camber gains and rear end anti-squat I wanted to build into the car. Level was always a known and constant factor.
Sorry about sounding off like a professor there. When you said you started off with out measurements I kind of freaked! Dont know your experience etc respectfully. Ive seen too many kids just jump in way over their heads. They bought good parts and got in a rush and boogered it up, effecting safety and performance. Check out Vanishing point race cars. They really have it going on right now, and seem to building some of the best stuff out there right now. Free catalog for the asking, its darn near a magazine. Send us PICS! Regards. Al
No problem, Al. You sound just fine. I appreciate any and all input that I can get, especially from someone doing something similar to their car. What I'm doing now is I cut the old drop in gas tank well from the trunk floor and built the fuel cell frame. As you can see, all of the leaf spring stuff is gone now. Last night I decided to roll the shell back over and finish the underneath - trying to finish SOMETHING-ANYTHING LOL!! :Handshake
Looks great 1970! You know what youre doin. How about a pic of your rotisserie for our readers here. I have one on the weasel im working on. Was gonna work on that today, but got distracted.(wife,etc). Makes me get thinking about mine more and more. Going over to Sarahs Saturday to look at her cars with the boy. Her Maverick Super-gasser isnt done yet. But she has lots of pics already! Regards. Al
Al, heres a link to a past thread that I posted when I first built the roll over stands http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=36458
You know mav I had a balance problem with my Weasel project too when I built my stand. I just added weight to the top. Installed a 12 X 2 piece of tubing five ft long. Just welded a couple tabs on and bolted it on the original lifting lugs. It dosent take much sometimes when rolling like that. I could let my kid do it and wouldnt worry at all. I do have a piece of scrap pipe welded on the pivit so it cant slide out while rotating. Plus 2 lenghts of tubeing attatched to make both stands one uniton the bottom. I can lift the complete hull with rotory stand as one and slide the car trailer under it. Did it like that for trans to the sand blaster.The 12 X 2 works as the spreader-bar lifting point. Dont mean to brag, wish i could send some pics. you would like it. Great job by the way! I like your garage, which reminds me, have to unload a load of used blocks for my garage today. My whole 6X6 truck is full. Then do it again. Free blocks! Anybody wanna come over for a block chipping party??Just going two rows up off the poured footing Regards. Al
